Advice on replacing polaris 360 or installing booster bump for 380 or some other cleaner?
- Thread starter jjean
- Start date
Trying to understand! Is this red circled filter the "energy filter" you are referring to? There is also a small/tiny filter inside the hose that attaches to the wall... we have to clean that and the larger clear one (red cricle) by the pool equipment all the time.
So how can we send the water to the main filter first to have everything work better? You lost me there... Is that if we install a booster pump and get a different cleaner (380 e.g.) Our pool was built by previous owners prob in 2004. It was built by blue haven..... We have been here many many years though.
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We are wanting to replace that jandy aqualink. We remodeled the pool (coping/plaster(mini pebble)/tile) about 1 1/2 years ago and replaced the filter with a jandy 580 since it was cracking - but didn't have enough $ to replace other equipment at that time. We disconnected the salt system for a better warranty with the pool remodeler. I would like to hook it back up soon though - after I have the remodelers check my coping. I prefer salt but it negates warranties on stone.
So if we replace the jandy aqualink with the Pentair InelliCenter you recommend - can that work with our new jandy filter? current swg? (if it is still working...I know I'll need a new salt cell)
And if we choose to install the booster pump we would do that then and replace our old 360 with like the 380 i think...
Am I on the right track? lol Thank you
Small filter="Energy Filter." The label is probably long-gone, but that is what that is. The 360 was designed to make use of those (though "officially" Polaris doesn't like them) and replace the RayVac that came with that pool.
All Polaris pressure cleaners use a hose screen as well.
Without labels, and not being there, most likely the booster pump would get its water from the pipe to the right of the return valve (just above the red circle) or from the vertical pipe to the far right of those four that go into the ground. That's filtered water, what the Polaris 280 (380?) would need to to go through the booster pump.
The booster-pump outlet hose would go into the vertical pipe that is after the Energy Filter, which would go away.
Since the plumbing is so tight, I would cut and cap that 1.5" line that feeds the energy filter and leave the valve so that you could use that hose bib to drain the pool if needed. The handle of the valve would point directly at the filter so that all the water would go to it.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,744
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Yes.
Sort of. You have a separate Aquarite controller for the cell? The Aquarite will work separately and not be controlled by the IntelliCenter. I would guess your Aqualink does not control the Aquarite either.
And if we choose to install the booster pump we would do that then and replace our old 360 with like the 380 i think...
Am I on the right track? lol Thank you
We are happy to help spend your money.
Ha! Pools are money pits!! I have a new jandy filter and a fairly newish jandy heater... we are currently not running the SWG (but I'd like to start it back up... soonish)
We need to replace the old controller - and when we do that we will have to replace the old pump (which has had several motors over the years but I think is an original hayward pump). We will replace that with a variable speed, as per requirements. (I'm bracing for the cost of all this - as remodeling fall of 2022 was so expensive!) When we do that, then if i can afford it, I'll replace the polaris and if needed install the booster pump.
So what do ya'll recommend for me as you help me spend my money! lol! Too bad all you experts are up north. I have had problems finding a decent pool repair company since covid. Im in the DFW area.
I'm also in the midst of fighting yellow algae and doing a supershock right now.... I was concerned of bit of algae stuck in the old polaris so I was thinking i needed to replace that sooner than later. But you know "when you give a mouse a cookie..." if you get that reference... so I wasn't sure if i should replace the 360 or just bleach it and let it hobble along until we do all the other upgrades - possibly including a booster pump - when my husband gets his bonus lol.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,744
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Your new filter and heater will be fine.
I suggest a Pentair IntelliCenter and Intelliflo VS pump when you can spring for it. Pentair has a discounted IntelliCenter bundle that includes the SWG and two actuators. So when the time comes price out some alternative configurations. You may find getting the SWG does not add that much.
Pentair does cost more than Jandy. Its the price for quality and better service.
Lots of us buy our equipment from...
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,744
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Supershock is not the way we approach algae.
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Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!
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I have had the worst yellow algae problems (for over a year we have battled it) What do you recommend? We cleaned the filters and everything else and brushed and brushed - and this time used yellow out and then started the 2 lbs of shock every 12 hours. We just finished that but I still see some yellow. I'm still brushing. Should I had more chlorine now? I ordered new filter cartridges that I will swap out as soon as I think i've gotten a hold of the yellow... I've read a lot on the forums but it is confusing and sometimes conflicting info. Leslies also wanted me to add clear aid but not sure about that?? or what about phos free to remove anything left before I change the cartridges? ty!Supershock is not the way we approach algae.
Algae Archives
Pool Care Basics Archives
Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!
Last edited:
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,744
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You should find nothing conflicting or confusing about TFP Methods. It becomes confusing when you try and mix methods between TFP, pool stores, and other places you may read. You need to pick which you trust and follow their method.
The Pool Store methods don't work. Magic potions you dump in your pool don't work.
Yellow Out converts your pool to a bromine pool. We never recommend that as it has consequences for your water chemistry way after the algae is gone.
Clear Aid, Phosfree, just say no.
Please read our Pool School and decide if you want to follow TFP methods. The proper amounts of chlorine is the ONLY thing that eradicates algae and gives you an algae free pool.
Have you followed our SLAM Process step by step with no shortcuts using a proper test kit?
SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain
We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.
www.troublefreepool.com
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Well i thought i read everything. there is a lot of info. I just ordered one of those recommended test kits. I will get liquid chlorine this afternoon. I have been putting in granular the last two days. I ordered new filters - should i replace those now or clean the old ones again and then replace after another day or so of slamming chlorine? I will keep brushing. I still see a little yellow...You should find nothing conflicting or confusing about TFP Methods. It becomes confusing when you try and mix methods between TFP, pool stores, and other places you may read. You need to pick which you trust and follow their method.
The Pool Store methods don't work. Magic potions you dump in your pool don't work.
Yellow Out converts your pool to a bromine pool. We never recommend that as it has consequences for your water chemistry way after the algae is gone.
Clear Aid, Phosfree, just say no.
Please read our Pool School and decide if you want to follow TFP methods. The proper amounts of chlorine is the ONLY thing that eradicates algae and gives you an algae free pool.
Have you follows our SLAM Process step by step with no shortcuts using a proper test kit?
SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain
We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.
thank you for your help and guidance.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,744
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Without the proper testing and using PoolMath for dosing of liquid chlorine you have been dumping chemicals in blindly. Follow the SLAM Process which is based on accurate testing, precise dosing, and science.
You should use your PSI gauge as the measure of filter performance. Note the PSI of a new clean filter. When the PSI increases by 25% it is time to clean the filter. If after cleaning the filter the PSI does not return to the clean PSI you expect then it is time to replace the cartridges.
Brushing a pool is always good to break the biofilm that tries to protect the algae from chlorine.
I am watching the gauge. It has increased some (from 10 to 20 psi) and my flow has decreased some. I am clearly still in the slam process. I bought new cartridges probably slightly before they are needed as pressure does return to normal/clean after cleaning but I noticed a bit of fraying starting on a couple of the bands when we cleaned the cartridges a few days ago and I figured new cartridges would eliminate any possible algae left in them. So i am wondering if is should clean these again now and continue the slam and then replace them? Or should I just replace them now and continue the slam?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,744
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
If the cartridges are good keep using them.
Since you now have two sets of cartridges you can alternate them and pull one out for cleaning and install the other set.
Is there a reason you don't buy a rebuild kit for the 360?? Alot less expensive than a new one.