Adding swcg, where to install?

TrexlerPool

New member
Mar 6, 2021
4
Mesa Arizona
Pool Size
18240
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I have recently been looking into adding a swcg to our pool. It is about 18.5k gallons and we are in Sunny AZ. I was looking at adding a circupool RJ-60+ since we have a high demand in summer time. My biggest hurtle is where to install. Our pipes are very tight, and we don’t have any good stretches available to us. The best I can come up with is adding a loop of some sort to the pipe marked in red. I keep the quikskim and pool returns off, as the in floor system includes the returns in their cycle, and I don’t find the quikskim to do much. Thoughts? Or am I out of luck trying to add a swcg and am going to have to stick with manually adding chlorine?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0732.jpeg
    IMG_0732.jpeg
    609 KB · Views: 44
@TrexlerPool, personally I would try to get the SWG in ALL your return paths, rather than just the IFCS distributer head. If you ever add valve automation control to your pool, those “unused, closed valve return positions” could prove useful. Can your filter be moved further away from its input/output? Can’t tell in the picture (too small of an area), but that could possibly be a relatively easy way to make some room. Post a couple more pictures if you can.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mdragger88
@TrexlerPool, personally I would try to get the SWG in ALL your return paths, rather than just the IFCS distributer head. If you ever add valve automation control to your pool, those “unused, closed valve return positions” could prove useful. Can your filter be moved further away from its input/output? Can’t tell in the picture (too small of an area), but that could possibly be a relatively easy way to make some room. Post a couple more pictures if you can.
That is a good idea. I hadn’t even thought of that. Definitely a possibility. I don’t have oodles of space, but could potentially move it 6-12” back. Would just need to move the pad or add another.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0743 Medium.jpeg
    IMG_0743 Medium.jpeg
    107.7 KB · Views: 16
  • Like
Reactions: jonpcar
Post some wider pics of the pad and surrounding area.

What is to the left of the pump?
If there is space there, move the pump and filter over.
You may have to extend your concrete pad foorprint.
Give yourself enough space to get in there and work on stuff.

I just don't understand PB's who try to have the smallest footptint for the equipment. SMDH

Update your signature with more details - include manufacturers and model numbers.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude and jonpcar
That is a good idea. I hadn’t even thought of that. Definitely a possibility. I don’t have oodles of space, but could potentially move it 6-12” back. Would just need to move the pad or add another.

Yeah, that’s what I was thinking…but don’t hesitate to rearrange your pump too, as @proavia talks about to make even more space. That is the easy stuff. You can easily buy and replace all those pump/filter unions and in the scheme of things they are cheap.
 
I won't move the filter back any closer to the fence, unless that was the only option.
Better to have enough room to get into that space if needed.

Once we see some additional pics of the area, we may have additional options.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Pushing it closer to the fence would definitely be the easiest. Access wouldn’t be a particular problem, as the pool fence is easily disassembled (this is what I do when I clean the filter, as I don’t have to carry the cartridges across the pool deck and can take them directly to the area I use to spray them off).

To answer questions: to the left of the filter is the pump then the timer and power supply, so moving that direction would require electrical work. Moving to the right would require elbows for the lines, taking up much of the space I would be attempting to gain, as well as put the filter too close to the gabian walls.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0751 Medium.jpeg
    IMG_0751 Medium.jpeg
    123.3 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_0749 Medium.jpeg
    IMG_0749 Medium.jpeg
    128.5 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_0750 Medium.jpeg
    IMG_0750 Medium.jpeg
    113.1 KB · Views: 13
Moving the filter a bit and maybe changing the orientation of the inlet/outlet. Also there should be a 6" to 12" of straight pipe before the flow switch. A vertical mounting of the cell probably going to help plumbing layout. You might also need to install a post to secure the plumbing to or maybe mount it off the gabian wall.

It's difficult for me to figure this out looking at pictures. I would buy some pipe and fittings and spend a time mocking up ideas and seeing what works and what won't.
 
I like TIVO’s drawing! Here is what I was thinking, though it would be VERY tight…this drawing is obviously not to scale in the critical distance between the pump and the returns where the SWG is shown. Everything could stay at the same “levels” if you could make this work but it probably all depends on the SWG length dimension. BTW, I haven’t ever had a problem servicing a nearly identical filter and it is in a walled corner (10” and 12”), but I guess it depends on how you do it.

The critical dimension shown is where two elbows + the SWG cell would have to fit.

IMG_0755.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I just don't understand PB's who try to have the smallest footptint for the equipment. SMDH
It makes even less sense when you factor that 9 times out of 10, the PBs own guys are the ones contorting themselves in a game of twister everytime something needs doing down the road. :roll:
 
  • Like
Reactions: proavia