IC-40 SWG Reads Low Salt at 3200 ppm?

Thanks for the advice...I can artificially raise the water temp in the Spa closed loop using the propane heater..., so I'll make sure the Spa and the Pool water have reached equilibrium with regard to the SALT LEVEL....I think I'll try that tonight. Bring it up to about 75F and shut the heater off. All the Salt has been dumped into the main pool, and I'd assume the Spa will take a while to get to the same level unless I drain it to the pool and refill from the pool. I sure have been very happy with my IC-40....hope she is OK.

AJW22: I found this nugget in the link you sent (good stuff by the way)

• The cell tests the salt level every 12 hours. So it may take 12 hours for the salt level on the cell to change after adding salt.

Hmmmm, that is good news.....maybe I should just let it run some more, as it has NOT been on for 12 hours...assuming it's 12-hour run time. Not real time.

The timer shuts off all the lights on the IC-40 when it switches to OFF>
Is that a reset?
It has cycled 2-3 times since I added the salt last night (and earlier today)...
Or are you saying disconnect the cable from the controller box for r a "hard re-cycle"?

I measured the Salt in both the pool and spa, and got 3400 (each measured 2X). The water was +54F and I noticed in the document provided by ajw22 it mentions the device working only at +60F and higher. Hmmm. My original owner manual says it works when above +52F. But this I assume refers to cold temp shutdown of the IC-40 system, not low salt indication.

Anyway, I closed off the spa suction and returns for spa only flow and turned on the heater to +67F. No change at +67F. Red low salt light still on with warmer water. I have noticed when starting the pump, that after the FLOW light goes green, the Salt level GOOD/LOW lights blink alternatively for about 5 minutes until it picks one condition or the other (In my case RED for LOW). Kind of a pain to have to wait that long.

So I shut the system off completely (I have a timer power on/off and also a power switch on/off) and disconnected the four pin connector from the SWG Cell to the bottom of the IC-40 Power Box per mknauss' "reboot" suggestion. Power reboot. THAT SEEMS TO HAVE BEEN THE SOLUTION!!!! In other words, I now assume shutting off power to the IC-40 via the Timer and or Power Switch wasn't "rebooting" the IC-40...whod'a thunk it? Had to pull the cable.

Thanks mknaus!!!

When I started the system again, had to wait the 5 minutes for the unit to measure salt level (blinking between Good and Bad) and it landed on GREEN for the first time this year...

I can verify milky clouds of CL gas coming from the pool returns.

The unit was bought on May 17, 2017...And I checked percentage cell use by holding down MORE button for 3 sec. and got 40%. The photo is of the unit as it was operating after pump turns on for 5 minutes, showing the LOW salt reading in steady red earlier today (before the re-boot). I didn't get a pic of the all green working condition, but it is. All good. QED. I really wanted this to work because I am leaving on a biz trip soon, not to mention I did not want to have to repair the unit, yet.
Thanks all.

well heck, went out to check before bedtime and that darn LOW SALT red light indicator is back ON my IC-40...BUT!!!! The IC-40 is indeed producing FC as is readily apparent by the milky clouds coming from the returns. Earlier today, with the RED low Salt indicator on, it was NOT producing FC>....It's been a long day, I'll look at it tomorrow.

Great video, thanks...Checked SALT LOW red light this AM and it's still on, BUT THE IC-40 APPEARS TO BE PRODUCING FC. The returns show the milky gas. I'll measure FC later with FC drop test.

As to the temp measurement (2 methods used), 1) I use my Raypack propane temp sensor heater display, it reads at 55F. It has always been pretty accurate when tested against a float thermometer or probe. 2) I also have an Ambient Weather WH31P Waterproof Thermometer Probe Sensor that reports into my WS-2902C weather system, and I keep the end of the probe in the spa and the transmitting unit nearby in a waterproof box. It measures same temp as the Raypack heater sensor.

I'll check the IC-40 temp reading later today as you suggest. I think I have to hold the MORE button down for 3 seconds, then the first indication is LIFE USAGE (which is at 40%), and then quickly press it a second time for TEMP. I am not sure if my unit (2017) is version 3.1 or not, as the manual indicates the temp measurement is an upgrade in version 3.1. We will see soon. If the rain would stop I could go out there now and play with it....Andother rainy day here, although we are in the mid-40s for a low (versus 37-39F lately)...its a heat wave

Pic included is a plot of spa temp vs. time. Pol and spa right now are same...except where you see yesterday I closed the spa and ran it up to 66F to test the IC-40 using warmer water.

I don't think the IC-40 has EVER been used below +60F, maybe even higher. I usually wait longer to open but biz travel upcoming made me decide to open earlier than the norm. Then again, last year's April opening yielded a green pool like never before. Ying/Yang, misery is conserved. Early or late.

Sounds like similar issues. I think once the water warms, I will be OK. I'll heat up the spa closed loop later (after the rain stops)....Too bad I already installed it and the bottom is facing the ground....but I could loosen it up a bit, rotate and check. Don't know why my contractor installed it horizontally, but it has always worked fine. The original unit installed failed after only a couple of months. I honestly do not recall what the failure was, but Pentail sent a brand-new unit. I probably have a record of the failure on my computer. I thought their service was quite good. I kept the old one for parts.

Thanks for the info. The FLOW indicator is coming on GREEN as soon as the pump primes up....usually, by the time the pressure gauge gets up to about 1/2 of final value, the FLOW light has gone green. This might mean the flow sensor is good? I believe I read somewhere the unit measures salinity via electrical conduction in the water. The more salt, I assume the higher the conduction. As we know, pure water does not conduct. For preparing to close after the SWG is not needed anymore...I do the same thing in the winter with the blank. I stored my IC-40 in a dry/cool place in the basement during the winter. These are very easy to install and remove. 5 minutes. I never did any surgery inside the IC-40 to replace the sensor, but it sounds relatively easy. Hopefully, I'll be out there later today looking at this after the rains stop.