Almost 30 psi without DE grids installed!

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nickcasa75

Well-known member
Mar 18, 2023
45
orlando fl
OMG, I'm ready to shoot myself. I noticed the pressure was a bit high, almost 30 when the pump cover started showing a large bubble. I completely cleaned the de grids and did NOT add de powder, no change. I removed the grids and ran without, pressure dropped to about 22. Opening up all the water features at once or isolating them shows no change in pressure either. i have 3 waterfalls, and in floor cleaning system (about 10 pop ups) and a raised hot tub that overflows into the pool, (orlando fl here, very popular). the pump does not struggle to prime at all, it catches prime in about 10 seconds when the system has been opened up.

I do have a heater, but that works just fine. i've read a ton of things and watched videos but i can't figure out what could be causing this. does anyone have any ideas what else i could check. my neighbor has the same de filter i do, with 1 waterfall and a few jets and his system is at 10 psi. i just bought this house a year ago, so i wonder if the pump is over sized maybe? it is a 2.6hp
 
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Does the pressure gauge return to zero when the pump is off?
With pump on, is there normal water flow out of the returns?
Do you have a heater bypass?
Have you tried a new gauge? Look for a glycerin filled gauge with 0 to 30 psi instead of the 0 to 60 psi ones.

Post pics of your equipmemt pad showing all valves and other equipment.

Never run the filter without DE for any length of time. Your grids can easily becomed plugged without DE in the filter.
 
proavia said:
Does the pressure gauge return to zero when the pump is off?
With pump on, is there normal water flow out of the returns?
Do you have a heater bypass?
Have you tried a new gauge? Look for a glycerin filled gauge with 0 to 30 psi instead of the 0 to 60 psi ones.

Post pics of your equipmemt pad showing all valves and other equipment.

Never run the filter without DE for any length of time. Your grids can easily becomed plugged without DE in the filter.
Click to expand...
In regards to the gauge, i know the pressure is high as a bubble forms in the pump cover when it creeps up and after powering on the pump, it will start at 20 and slowly creep up. i also notice the waterflow becomes a little decreased as more pressure builds....
 
nickcasa75 said:
In regards to the gauge, i know the pressure is high as a bubble forms in the pump cover when it creeps up and after powering on the pump, it will start at 20 and slowly creep up. i also notice the waterflow becomes a little decreased as more pressure builds....
Click to expand...
If the filter pressure rises over time it is a sign you have algae clogging your filter.

You need to a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test.

If the pressure starts high and stays there then it can be indication of an equipment problem.
 
ajw22 said:
Show us the data from your own test kit - Taylor K-2006C or TFT Test Kits
Click to expand...
i dont have a test kit, i go to pinch a penny for water testing. everything is perfect. like i said, there are no de grids installed, so that's not the cause of the high pressure. unless you are thinking in some remote way that algae or some other thing could be clogging the inside of the pvc pipes causing back pressure to build
 
nickcasa75 said:
i dont have a test kit, i go to pinch a penny for water testing. everything is perfect. l
Click to expand...

We put no faith in pool store tests and our view of perfection is very different then pinch a penny.

nickcasa75 said:
ike i said, there are no de grids installed, so that's not the cause of the high pressure. unless you are thinking in some remote way that algae or some other thing could be clogging the inside of the pvc pipes causing back pressure to build
Click to expand...

Well we can play the guessing game with you.

Could be your IFCS system and valve.

Do you have a RECIRCULATE setting on your MPV?

Could be a broken internal bypass valve in your heater.

You need to bypass and eliminate your equipment one by one.
 
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ajw22 said:
We put no faith in pool store tests and our view of perfection is very different then pinch a penny.



Well we can play the guessing game with you.

Could be your IFCS system and valve.

Do you have a RECIRCULATE setting on your MPV?

Could be a broken internal bypass valve in your heater.

You need to bypass and eliminate your equipment one by one.
Click to expand...
No recirculate on my mpv, need to bypass the heater, i agree with you on that.
 
ajw22 said:
I agree with @Poolbreh that your IFCS system is the first place I would look for problems.
Click to expand...
when i divert the water to the spa and waterfalls (shutting off the IFCS), the pressure doesn't change. actually no matter which combination of returns i do, waterfalls, spa or IFCS, the pressure doesn't change, hence why i'm thinking the heater could be the issue. the mpv was just replaced two months ago, but the pressure was the same before and after the old vs new mpv.
 
nickcasa75 said:
. I noticed the pressure was a bit high, almost 30 when the pump cover started showing a large bubble. I completely cleaned the de grids and did NOT add de powder, no change. I removed the grids and ran without, pressure dropped to about 22.
Click to expand...
Above it was stated that pressure dropped to 22psi but now it shows 30psi without the grids? Just want to ensure we have the correct scenario. It will be worth $20 to purchase a new gauge. I am thinking the existing one could still be faulty or it may be plugged.
It will at least rule out the gauge is faulty.
Is your flow through the wall return (with IFCS off) strong as it was before? Any possibility that the valve on the return pipe (after the heater) could be faulty? It shows to be set properly but if the stem is twisted on broken then the diverter may not turn fully, thus blocking flow and causing backpressure on the system.
 
What is the psi on the IFCS gauge when the IFCS is active?

We can continue to throw out ideas of what it might be, but until you actual physically check each item brought to your attention, you can't rules any of them (or a combination of them) out.

You could have a nascent algae bloom.
The gauge could be bad.
Your IFCS water valve could be blocked.
Your multi-port could be malfunctioning.
The diverter in one or more of your return valves could be broken.
You could have a blockage in the plumbing after the pump somewhere.
The heater could be causing the issue.

Even though we don't place much credence in the PS test results, post them here just to humor us.
Saying the test results are perfect is meaningless without us seeing the PS results.

If you want to take control of your pool - and save money in the process - seriously consider getting one of the recommended test kits.
Test Kits Compared
 
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