Can I get help to change my salt water pool to fresh water?

My conversion has 30m3 is 30,000 liters which is about 8000 gals. So I assume you have it partially filled as you have in your signature the pool volume is 43m3
1 liter of 10% liquid chlorine will raise the FC by 3.3ppm
Therefore 600ml will raise FC by 2ppm i.e. from 5 to 7ppm

corrado95 said:

I did take out about half of the water and filled up. Then my values was like this:
PH 7,8
salt 1870 (can't understand it is higher now)
30 degreas
FC 2,5
CC 0
TA 60
CH 160
CYA 40
Then I added 1 liter sodium hypochlorite
Now values is like this:
PH 8,0
salt 1900
30 degreas
FC 5
CC 0,5
TA 60
CH 160
CYA 55

It seems like 1 liter Sodium will raise FC 2-3ppm
I should take down PH othervice it looks good now, no more salt.
I have a small fridge, I will fill it with 0,5 liter bottles with Sodium Hypo. I am off grid so free electric ;-).

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The pH at 7.8 is fine. Adding liquid chlorine should not raise pH. The reason I am stating that is your TA is 60 and adding muractic acid will also over time decrease TA and you do not want TA below 50. So don’t be in a rush to lower pH at around 7.8.

Do you think your meter for salt is reading incorrectly? Has it been calibrated?

No need to store your liquid chlorine in the fridge. Just keep it in the shade.
Here’s what each liter of 10% sodium hypochlorite (bleach/liquid chlorine) will do in your filled pool

The average daily fc loss of an algae free pool is anywhere from 2-5ppm so you’re looking at 1-2 liters of chlorine per day during pool season while adhering to the
FC/CYA Levels chart.
If you’re experiencing algae as you mentioned you’ll need to do the SLAM Process to rid yourself of it. This will be performed with liquid chlorine.
In the US its much cheaper to buy salt occasionally than it is liquid chlorine daily so getting your swcg back online should be a priority after completing the
SLAM Process.
Your salt water chlorine generator is capable of producing 8.2ppm fc / day in your pool if run at 100% which should be more than sufficient for normal maintenance of fc levels. (You should be able to run it around 50%)
The trouble is that once you get algae even the most adequately sized swcg simply cannot keep up. Rid yourself of the algae (slam) & then the swcg will be able to maintain for you.
Obviously you will need to keep tighter tabs on your salt levels to ensure your system can function properly.

Is there any way you can purchase a Taylor K-1766 salt test kit? The salt story here does not seem to make sense to me.

Taylor K-1766

Katygreys said:

Is there any way you can purchase a Taylor K-1766 salt test kit? The salt story here does not seem to make sense to me.

Taylor K-1766

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Meters can be off by +- 500 ppm even when calibrated properly but The 1000ppm jump from his initial measurement is concerning - perhaps it wasn’t calibrated before & now it is? Or perhaps it had rained alot and the water wasn’t mixed well before measuring initially?
I agree that the k1766 is the way to go especially if you’re needing to measure salt often & keep tighter tabs on it.
Even if the op had zero salt it would only cost around $80 in the US ($8x10 bags) to get 4k ppm worth so he could utilize his swcg again & make his own chlorine.

corrado95 said:

As I am now trying to NOT have a salt pool the salt level is not longer important. I checked it with reference salt water and i saw my meter showed 1200 when it should show 2000.
But forget about that.
2 days after my FC was 3,5. I filled 1 liter sodium hypo, after 8 h I had 4ppm. The day after I filled 2 liter sodium hypo, after 4 h i had 8ppm.
Is the filling of chlorin and raise in FC what it should be?
To use the pool, what is the maximum FC I should use to not be harmfull to the body? Does the temperature 30° in water have any effect?
If I have 8 ppm and don't use the pool after how many days will it be down to 3ppm?
Is sodium hypochlorite the cheapest way to handle FC?

Ps Thanks everyone for your big help!

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To emphasize what was stated by @Newdude
The table of CYA level to target FC level is the key foundation to keep the pool sanitized properly.
The other foundation to maintaining the proper sanitization is to TEST daily. That is the only way to understand how UV (the sun) and pool usage affects the consumption of FC.
I have a slightly larger pool then yours and doing the summer in Texas heat I was having to add 2-3 quarts (about same in liters) of sodium hypochlorite (we call it liquid chlorine -LC for short) a DAY.
So your daily consumption varies because of overcast days, non-usage of pool, etc but you have to keep it in the range for your CYA to ensure you do not drop too low and then algae could occur.

This is why TFP advocates the use of saltwater pools. The SWCG will make FC throughout the day and this keeps the proper FC level in the pool. I know you don’t want to pursue that but never say never.

So for now do the following
Follow the CYA/FC chart
Test Daily
Keep your FC in the proper range and lean to keep it on the high side since you have very consistent warm environment
Keep a good supply of LC on hand.

Good Luck.

@corrado95 ,
It is safe for swimmers and equipment with fc anywhere between minimum & slam level for your cya.
With a cya of 100* that is anywhere between 8ppm & 39ppm
If you wish to maintain a lower fc level then that you need to exchange some water to reduce your cya level.
Maintenance level fc will not eradicate your current algae problem- you need slam level fc for that. It is impractical to do the SLAM Process with a cya of 100ppm.

corrado95 said:

Yesterday my FC was 8 and CYA 70, little too high, Today FC is 0,5! CYA still 70. How can FC the day after be 0,5?. Almost no use of the pool.

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Great job on getting the cya down

Algae is consuming your fc - this is a much higher rate than at maintenance levels so maintenance levels of fc are not enough to overcome it.

corrado95 said:

What does slam level in the table mean?

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It is shock fc level for your cya
SLAM stands for
Shock Level And Maintain

corrado95 said:

I have seen people write about FC be higher than 3-4 can be harmfull for body. Does the apropreate CYA level makes it not harmful?

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Correct- fc of above 4ppm with zero cya can be quite harsh but to put it simply:
with cya in the picture some of the chlorine is “bound” to the cya leaving less “active” chlorine in the water.
As the cya increases more of the chlorine is “bound” so each of these fc amounts are equal in strength for each cya level


Please read this for a better understanding

corrado95 said:

Some hours ago I put in 2,5 liter sodium, now I checked and FC is 10. 2,5 liter should not give the effect 10 FC. I measured 0,5 2 times so it was correct but FC must have been higher to give FC 10 after 2,5 liter sodium.

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Your calculated pool volume may be a little off or your liquid chlorine is a little stronger than you thought. No big deal- adjust your doses accordingly.

corrado95 said:

It looks like there have to be to put sodium almost every day. Is there another way to keep up FC. Can I slam pool and still use it?

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To preform the the slam process & eradicate your algae problem you need to Maintain slam level for your cya as often as possible. This means testing & replenishing fc (28ppm for you) multiple times per day until you meet all 3 end of slam criteria.
The more often you do this the faster it will go.

It is safe to use the pool with fc anywhere between minimum (5ppm for you) & slam level (28ppm for you) for your cya so long as you can see the bottom for swimmer safety.

After the SLAM Process
is complete and you are back to just maintaining the pool you can either dose manually every day or so with liquid chlorine or have your salt water chlorine generator feed your pool for you.
Either way you must ensure that fc stays above minimum for your cya or algae & nasties will grow. There’s no way around that. The pool eats fc every day. On average 2-4 ppm every day. You must feed it accordingly.
You have the best way to feed your pool already installed.