Pool Chlorine Level Keeps Dropping (Please help! Incurring astronomic costs in chemicals)

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Just be sure you have track combined switched on in the settings ⚙️
IMG_8824.jpeg
Then when you go to log your results there will be a spot for cc’s (combined chlorine)
Here’s how to log your results so they will automatically appear on the overview cards (the pic you posted)
After logging you can then click on each parameter’s card to calculate any adjustments that are needed
 
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Mdragger88 said:
Just be sure you have track combined switched on in the settings ⚙️
View attachment 551472
Then when you go to log your results there will be a spot for cc’s (combined chlorine)
Here’s how to log your results so they will automatically appear on the overview cards (the pic you posted)
After logging you can then click on each parameter’s card to calculate any adjustments that are needed
Click to expand...
Thank you, and do I need Borates for a SWG
 
qsch1 said:
Thank you, and do I need Borates for a SWG
Click to expand...
Some people choose to use them for various reasons. It’s completely optional & literally the very last thing to worry about.
If you have used them it’s important to track the level so poolmath can account for them in the csi & acid dosing calculations.

Borates in pool - Further Reading

www.google.com www.google.com
 
So thanks for waiting guys, here are the results of the tests. It was not that easy but I think easier next time.

FC
4 - 1 = 2 x 0.05 = 0.15

CC
1 x 0.5 = 0.5

Alkalinity
14 x 10 =140 (stopped when almost clear after pink colour)

CYA = 100 (possibly 110, hard to tell)

PH = 8.5
Cl & Br = totally clear

Calcium Hardness = 450 - I put 45 drops last agent and still pink (not sure if we did this wrong) - as much as I know we have no calcium hardness here as it is rain water maybe that’s why it stayed pink?

It rained quite a bit the last few days on and off.

The smart stir does seem to be vibrating at all, is this normal? I did it all by hand as there was no movement? Does it mix ultrasonically?

Thanks
 

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For the SmartStir, there should be a "pill" or white "X" that you put in the vial after you add the measured pool water.
It may be in the upper section of the kit where the paperwork is.

Putting in the pill or X and turning on the SmartStir will allow the solution to be mixed.
 
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+1. You need water in the vial or nothing happens. I had my own apart on the workbench trying to fix it because nothing happened when I put the pill in empty and pushed the button. 🤦‍♂️

qsch1 said:
FC
4 - 1 = 2 x 0.05 = 0.15
Click to expand...
You mathed wrong. Use a 10ml sample, a full scoop and each drop is 1/2 FC.

qsch1 said:
CYA = 100 (possibly 110, hard to tell)
Click to expand...
90+ is sketchy to try and read.

Mix up a batch of 50/50 tap and pool water as your 'sample'. Proceed with the rest of the test as normal and double the result.
 
qsch1 said:
So thanks for waiting guys, here are the results of the tests. It was not that easy but I think easier next time.

FC
4 - 1 = 2 x 0.05 = 0.15
Click to expand...
The FC test doesn’t need math like that. You just divide the number of drops by .2 or .5 depending on the water sample size.

(And you have an error in the problem above, sorry I’ve been tutorial my son in math for several weeks and it’s an unconscious reaction now.)
 
Last edited:
How big was your fc sample?
10ml : each drop = .5 ppm
25ml : each drop = .2 ppm
Looks like either way your fc is very low for your cya level- you need some liquid chlorine asap to prevent the green from returning before you can do a water exchange to rectify your cya issue.
IMG_8874.jpeg
Here’s a video of a magnetic stirrer in action
 
proavia said:
For the SmartStir, there should be a "pill" or white "X" that you put in the vial after you add the measured pool water.
It may be in the upper section of the kit where the paperwork is.

Putting in the pill or X and turning on the SmartStir will allow the solution to be mixed.
Click to expand...
I got it thanks, that was the issue
 
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Bperry said:
The FC test doesn’t need math like that. You just divide the number of drops by 2 or 5 depending on the water sample size.

(And you have an error in the problem above, sorry I’ve been tutorial my son in math for several weeks and it’s an unconscious reaction now.)
Click to expand...
I noticed I have an error. So if I use 10 ml how much do I divide it by. All my tests used that amount but would rather use 5 ml (sorry I am new at this). What do I change if we only use 5 ml.
 

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Mdragger88 said:
How big was your fc sample?
10ml : each drop = .5 ppm
25ml : each drop = .2 ppm
Looks like either way your fc is very low for your cya level- you need some liquid chlorine asap to prevent the green from returning before you can do a water exchange to rectify your cya issue.
View attachment 551991
Here’s a video of a magnetic stirrer in action
Click to expand...
I made an error in the calculation. It should be 1.5. I used the 10 ml sample but would prefer to use 5 ml.
 
5 ml, each drop is 1 FC
10 ml, each drop is .5 FC
25 ml, each drop is .2 FC

The test error is +/- one drop, which gives the 5 ml sample more variance. 10 ml is the happy medium between conserving supplies and accuracy.
 
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Stick with 10ml sample for most every time you test 👍🏻
We only recommend using the 5ml sample when in the middle of slamming & testing a whole lot at high fc levels to help conserve reagents. But You’re not yet in that fight right now.

Were you able to do the diluted cya test?

I also have some more homework for you…
Do the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test at target fc levels FC/CYA Levels
If you pass, you can just exchange enough water to get the cya down to 70-80ppm & proceed with regular maintenance.
If you fail it’s SLAM Process time & that’s more easily accomplished with a bit lower cya level (50/60 ppm or below).
 
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Mdragger88 said:
Stick with 10ml sample for most every time you test 👍🏻
We only recommend using the 5ml sample when in the middle of slamming & testing a whole lot at high fc levels to help conserve reagents. But You’re not yet in that fight right now.

Were you able to do the diluted cya test?

I also have some more homework for you…
Do the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test at target fc levels FC/CYA Levels
If you pass, you can just exchange enough water to get the cya down to 70-80ppm & proceed with regular maintenance.
If you fail it’s SLAM Process time & that’s more easily accomplished with a bit lower cya level (50/60 ppm or below).
Click to expand...

I turned up the chlorinator which was at only 60%. Remember it rained a lot as well the last day. I see the pool is bluer today so I believe the higher chloring is taking effect. So will do another chlorine test in a few days. Once that goes up, then I will add some water to combat the CYA issue. I dont want to do that now until I get the chlorine up. I already added 2/3 gallon of muriatic acid to drop the PH and alkalinity.
 
qsch1 said:
Can I do half rain water, half pool water (5 +5 ml) to get a better result then halve the result at the end?
Click to expand...
Mixing adds some error possibilities because you'll never be dead on at 5 ml each, and its probably a wash between that and the 1 drop variance of .5 for 10ml.
 
qsch1 said:
I turned up the chlorinator which was at only 60%. Remember it rained a lot as well the last day. I see the pool is bluer today so I believe the higher chloring is taking effect. So will do another chlorine test in a few days. Once that goes up, then I will add some water to combat the CYA issue. I dont want to do that now until I get the chlorine up. I already added 2/3 gallon of muriatic acid to drop the PH and alkalinity.
Click to expand...
While turning up the swcg is a good idea, Waiting days to properly chlorinate is not, as nasties can brew in the meantime while you wait. Dose to target now & let the swcg maintain. They are designed as maintainers not maker uppers 😁
 
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qsch1 said:
So since I changed the cord and sensor and the cell, my pool is catching up. Is there a simple way to check if these parts are working, without having to put them in again to troubleshoot?
Click to expand...
Changing them one at a time via the process of elimination is the best bet.
To troubleshoot the swcg equipment you must first confirm that you’re algae free by preforming & passing the oclt. Then you can turn around & do separate overnight chlorine gain tests with each piece of suspect equipment installed to check that each piece of equipment is allowing the system to function properly.
If you don’t perform & pass the oclt ruling out algae,
any nascent algae (invisible algae) will skew the results of any overnight gain tests.
One thing at a time, in an organized fashion without other variables.
 
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qsch1 said:
Can I do half rain water, half pool water (5 +5 ml) to get a better result then halve the result at the end?
Click to expand...

It's just about how accurate you are in measuring the 5ml of pool water. How much rain (or distilled) water you add afterwards doesn't impact the result - only the 5ml of pool water matter, resulting in a test resolution of 1ppm per drop.
 

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