Spa draining into pool with pump off

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kul

kul

Bronze Supporter
Oct 1, 2021
1,437
Los Angeles
Pool Size
15000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Jimrahbe said:
The Return valve sends the water back to either the pool or the spa. It can also be offset (like shown in your pic) so that some of the water goes to the spa when in the pool mode. This is what causes your spa to spillover into your pool. When the return valve sends water to the spa, it passes through another check valve. This check valve prevents water from a raised spa, from flowing back into the pool when the pump is off.
Click to expand...
Hello, I am not sure yet, but I think my spa may be draining down into my pool when the pump is off. When I went out just now, the water was just slightly below (maybe 0.25 inch) where the level usually is which is right where the spillover is.

Can someone guide me on how to investigate this? I posted a response to a previous thread I had about my equipment which I think is a starting point but I do not know what to do first. I appear to have only one return valve so I am not sure where the issue could be or if I’m going at this wrong.
 
Kul,

When the spa drains back into the pool, when the pump is off, 90% of the time it is a bad check valve in the spa return line..

Show us several pics of your equipment pad and we can point you to the suspect check valve.

That said, I'm not sure I fully understand the problem... With the pump off, the spa level should be just below the spa spillover... So I am not sure you have a problem at all.. When the check valve is bad, the spa normally drains down to just below the spa jet or lower, depending on the plumbing.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Jimrahbe said:
That said, I'm not sure I fully understand the problem... With the pump off, the spa level should be just below the spa spillover... So I am not sure you have a problem at all.. When the check valve is bad, the spa normally drains down to just below the spa jet or lower, depending on the plumbing.
Click to expand...
Thank you, Jim. I only observed this yesterday while I was wandering around my backyard and may be jumping the gun. At the time, the pump had been off for 5 hours. Perhaps to investigate further I will do the following:
turn off pump for 24 hours and observe what happens when:
1) usual setting: suction from pool only and return is mostly pool/some to spa
2) pool to pool
3) spa to spa

This should take me 3 days so I’ll be in touch Friday to report what I observed each morning.

Does this sound like a good plan?
 
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Kul,

Your 'usual' setting is what makes your spa spillover into the pool, because the spa drain is closed and you are always adding a little water to the spa with no place to go but over the spillway.. In this configuration, when you turn off the pump, the spa, which is normally higher than the pool, would always drain back into the pool, except for the check valve that is just to the left of the Return valve. The whole reason for that check valve is to prevent your spa from draining down when the pump is off.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Jimrahbe said:
check valve that is just to the left of the Return valve.
Click to expand...
Thanks for pointing out which one is the check valve. I turned the pump off and on to observe this valve and the orange flapper inside appears to open when the pump is on and close when the pump is off just fine. The pump is off at this time. With the pump off, I put my ear to the check valve and didn’t hear any water moving noise. Since I was already there, I also put my ear to the return and intake valves and also heard no water noise, or any noise at all. I have no water leaks at my pad and also do not see any water pooling anywhere around my pool. I will report back tomorrow regarding test #1. Thank you for your guidance.
 
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@Jimrahbe in its current position, the water level is going down, though very slowly (maybe a mm an hour or something similar), but enough for me to notice. What is the next step to determine where the leak might be happening? Other things in the spa include a light niche near the bottom and the two drains. Should I drain the water to above the jets to see if it stops right under the jets?
Adding these 2 photos for posterity to display amount water went down during test 1 (return at usual partial spa/mostly pool setting, intake pool only).
Photo 1. Spa at about 10am
IMG_9438.jpeg

Photo 2: spa at about 5:30pm

IMG_9439.jpeg
 
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Kul,

When the check valve is bad, it often takes all night for the spa to drain down... They often leak very slowly...

The first thing to do is to move the Return valve to fully close off the Spa return pipe. (No spillover position, if the pump was on..)

If the drain down stops, this means your check valve is bad.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
The first thing to do is to move the Return valve to fully close off the Spa return pipe. (No spillover position, if the pump was on..)
Click to expand...
Thanks Jim. I’m going to go out and turn on the pump and fill the spa. I’m going to then adjust to “pool to pool” and check if the level in the spa remains the same overnight. I will report back tomorrow.

Photos for posterity for “intake pool only and return to pool only”
Photo 1: position of intake and return valves in pool only position at about 5:25pm

IMG_9440.jpeg

Photo 2: spa after I turned pump on and set pool to pool at about 5:30pm

IMG_9441.jpeg
 
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Kul,

You have an IntelliFlo pump, IC40 SWCG, and a heater... I am 'shocked' that you do not have an automation system... :scratch:

Did your pool builder not suggest getting an EasyTouch or the new IntelliCenter???

Pools without spas do not 'need' an automation system, but when you have a spa, VS pump, and SWCG, it is almost a requirement...

You just push a button on your phone or PC and the system automatically shifts from the Pool mode to the Spa mode, changes the pump speed, turns on the heater and reduces the amount of chlorine the SWCG is making..

Just saying???? :mrgreen:

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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The pool was built in 2016 by the previous owner. All equipment is original except the SWG IC-60 which I added this summer and the heater which I needed to replace because it was leaking due to hostile ph likely caused by pucks that were left in the skimmer routinely.
Automation does sound nice, but also overwhelming when I read about it. I have my situation pretty dialed in, but would consider automating in the future. Sounds like it could do everything I do, and would be especially helpful with the heater because it is the one thing I have to manually turn on every time I’m going to use it. The valves usually just stay where they are except now and then when I want to heat just the spa.
 
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@Jimrahbe You were correct. The spa did not lose any water in my pool to pool test so the spa return check valve is the culprit. See close up below of the check valve. I see the part number is 7236, but when I try to find this on Amazon the only comparable is 7056, so maybe they changed the part number but it’s still compatible?

Would this be ok?
Zodiac 7056 Cover with Flapper Assembly Replacement Kit for Zodiac Jandy Spring Check Valve Amazon.com—>actually reading close it’s the flapper part only? Can you guide me which one would be the one I need?

There are some off label ones that are half cost, does it matter if it’s the above or should I go with a less pricey replacement?

Here’s my current one:
IMG_9442.jpeg

I watched a YouTube video and it seems I unscrew this thing, then just stick the new valve in. I think I can manage that.
 
kul said:
I watched a YouTube video and it seems I unscrew this thing, then just stick the new valve in. I think I can manage that.
Click to expand...
You'll do just fine. (y)

kul said:
There are some off label ones that are half cost, does it matter if it’s the above or should I go with a less pricey replacement?
Click to expand...
I'd throw $14 at it now and if it failed again sooner than I hoped, get the spendy one next time.
 
Kul,

It has been proven before that different brand check valves are not all identical inside. I'd want to use an identical replacement flapper.

That said, I have no personal experience with that specific valve so my advice is suspect... :mrgreen:

As the dude suggests, buy the cheap one and see if it works... The problem is not going to cause any damage to your pool/spa, so, even if the cheap valve does not work, it is not that big a deal.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Do you know if the 7056 is interchangeable with the 7026?

Someone posted this on Amazon, is it true?
7236 is just the plastic cover. 7056 is the assembly shown (Includes #7451 flapper, # 7302 spring, # 7304 pin, # 7236 cover, and # 1132 cover o-ring). As far as I know 7236 can only be purchased as part of the 7056 assembly.

Sorry for so many edits. I’m trying to fix this issue one time and be done, if possible.
 
Thanks for clarifying! Something like this one ok?
Wauebuly 7056 Check Valve Cover with Flapper Assembly Replacement for 7235, 7236, 7305, 7511, 7512 Check Valve Amazon.com

Per my local pool store the 7056 kit is as follows:
Original parts: $49.99
After market option: $29.99

I guess my question now is whether the 7056 is the correct one to purchase? Is there a TFP pal who might know?

My preference is to unscrew the plastic face thingy and the internal orange thingy and stick the new one in and screw it in.
 
kul said:
I guess my question now is whether the 7056 is the correct one to purchase? Is there a TFP pal who might know?
Click to expand...
Per the stamped 'Jandy 7236' on your lid, I feel as good about it as I can. :)
 
haha that’s fair. Ok. In order to unscrew this valve, should I proceed how I typically clean the filters? Should I drain the water by releasing the gauge on my filter? Or am I safe from water pouring out from this valve when I open it?
 
Release the pressure from the filter air valve. Then whatever water is left in the valve will glug glug out peacefully as you open it.
 
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