Cya
- Thread starter Badpoolmom
- Start date
I left it open all winter to collect about 3ft of rainwater. I drained twice as it got full.
Someone suggest trying the bio active (I was given one 8oz pack) seems according to package I would need two packs for my cya level. There are many stipulations before applying. One review I read said the guy ended up with ammonia after using it.
Feeling …Danged if I do, danged if I don’t
Feeling …Danged if I do, danged if I don’t
- May 3, 2014
- 62,702
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
That is technically what it is supposed to do, but go a bit further to nitrites. But they have yet to be able to keep the microbes viable enough to complete the process.
CYA reducer doesn't work - AT ALL. Throw it out and get on with fixing your pool. Sorry to be abrupt.
Your first post bothers me a bit. Are you doing the CYA test by looking DOWN into the cylinder until the dot is obscured. Your report seems to suggest you are looking at the wrong numbers by perhaps looking sideways into the column of test water.
Your first post bothers me a bit. Are you doing the CYA test by looking DOWN into the cylinder until the dot is obscured. Your report seems to suggest you are looking at the wrong numbers by perhaps looking sideways into the column of test water.
I am looking straight down. Prior to getting my own kit the pool store test said 225 repeatedly. I should mention, we had ammonia - so they tell me - last year had me treating with granular shock 3-4 lb per day. Third summer with the pool only a week or 2 ago started using liquid chlorine only. Had been chlorinating with tabs for three summers (plus all the zipchlor last year). Beyond that about mid summer last year started “shocking” with liquid only. However had still continued tabs through powerclean chlorinator. With all of that said does the high cya reading make more sense?
I would say by , my very unscientific method of timing my fill hose (takes it 25 seconds to fill 2 gallon bucket) . We have partially drained/refilled 10 times approx 850 gallons per time. Just trying to get some dilution
I would say by , my very unscientific method of timing my fill hose (takes it 25 seconds to fill 2 gallon bucket) . We have partially drained/refilled 10 times approx 850 gallons per time. Just trying to get some dilution
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Honestly everything seems to be a mess
Ph 7
TA 300 (10 ml sample as I knew it was high from fill water) took 12 drops to turn pink although the instructions says red
FC 15
CC 0
Didn’t bother with cya today but will if beneficial
Ph 7
TA 300 (10 ml sample as I knew it was high from fill water) took 12 drops to turn pink although the instructions says red
FC 15
CC 0
Didn’t bother with cya today but will if beneficial
Its not natural in water, so you added it. Sometimes you may have known and others ot may have been part of something else, like the tabs. But yeah. Makes sense.
Unfortunately multiple drains remove good water too, and each subsequent drain is less efficient. It still works, and sometimes it is what it is, but you always prefer less drains / exchanges, with more drained / exchanged.
With todays readings (posted above) which do I address first if any? Since the partial drain/fill is still happening
FC is all you need for now. Bring it back to 21/22 daily. Your PH test isn't reliable at 10+ FC.
What's your calcium?
So your CSI is in range roughly at -0.15.
Focus on the FC and the rest shouldn't matter for now.
Focus on the FC and the rest shouldn't matter for now.
yes my levels were out of whack because apparently no one in the pool industry practices cya/chlorine relationship is very important.
So my fc was way too low for my cya
we had wwm, treated for it.
Lots of liquid chlorine,lost count how many gallons
2 bottles of vanquish (glb product)
Chlorine demand was never an issue - according to my strips and the pool store . I KNOW I KNOW
I do have my own test kit now and still dont see a real fc demand
Initially my pool literally looked like a snow globe. Zillions of flakes. Mostly small like a snowflake. Some larger like tissue paper. After about 2 weeks after treatment all looked fine I could see a handful of flakes. Today I’m sure I see more flakes.
Questions are
How do you know if you’ve completely killed wwm?
How do I know if this is leftover that hasn’t been filtered /washed out or is a new bloom or outbreak or whatever?
How does tfp treat such issues?
Working on reducing cya (200+ currently)
Right now only focusing on fc until cya is in check (17 currently)
With cya where it is slam levels not achievable (I think anyway)
Closing in 18 days
Anybody ever just want to light the dumb thing on fire ?!!
So my fc was way too low for my cya
we had wwm, treated for it.
Lots of liquid chlorine,lost count how many gallons
2 bottles of vanquish (glb product)
Chlorine demand was never an issue - according to my strips and the pool store . I KNOW I KNOW
I do have my own test kit now and still dont see a real fc demand
Initially my pool literally looked like a snow globe. Zillions of flakes. Mostly small like a snowflake. Some larger like tissue paper. After about 2 weeks after treatment all looked fine I could see a handful of flakes. Today I’m sure I see more flakes.
Questions are
How do you know if you’ve completely killed wwm?
How do I know if this is leftover that hasn’t been filtered /washed out or is a new bloom or outbreak or whatever?
How does tfp treat such issues?
Working on reducing cya (200+ currently)
Right now only focusing on fc until cya is in check (17 currently)
With cya where it is slam levels not achievable (I think anyway)
Closing in 18 days
Anybody ever just want to light the dumb thing on fire ?!!
Maintain the proper CYA/FC ratios
You don't and it really doesn't matter. If it's there it's there. Try and capture some and pour a little muriatic acid on it (somewhere safe to do so). If it fizzles it's calcium and not WWM.
WWM needs a SLAM which is nearly impossible right now so we'll have to make absolutely sure FC stays in range and hopefully that's enough. You can brush and scrub every inch though. And I'm talking every last inch, especially the hidden in plain sight ones like ladder rails, light niches, auto fills, etc.
Calcium would need you to lower the TA.
We'll hang tight for confirmation
98% of folks who sought us out like you did. Most of us were doing sucky yucky pool care before trouble free poolcare. Can confirm one is LIGHT YEARS better than the other. Things are only going to get better and poolcare will be a joke once we get you up to speed.
Nearly impossible to capture flakes. I mean I can get them on the net or in a jar but they basically disintegrate when you touch them to try to place on cardboard or whatever. will try again tho.Maintain the proper CYA/FC ratios
You don't and it really doesn't matter. If it's there it's there. Try and capture some and pour a little muriatic acid on it (somewhere safe to do so). If it fizzles it's calcium and not WWM.
WWM needs a SLAM which is nearly impossible right now so we'll have to make absolutely sure FC stays in range and hopefully that's enough. You can brush and scrub every inch though. And I'm talking every last inch, especially the hidden in plain sight ones like ladder rails, light niches, auto fills, etc.
Calcium would need you to lower the TA.
We'll hang tight for confirmation
98% of folks who sought us out like you did. Most of us were doing sucky yucky pool care before trouble free poolcare. Can confirm one is LIGHT YEARS better than the other. Things are only going to get better and poolcare will be a joke once we get you up to speed.
Use a paper towel like a net to scoop some. With any luck they'll stick to the paper towel.
Did the paper towel, they stuck but quickly disappeared. Captured a few photos today. I’m assuming the the flakes come from something like what’s in the photos, like when it starts to break up. Stuff basically dissolves when touched.
Ok so nothing is consuming your FC, and the floaties don't look like calcium. Is there any chance something nearby is shedding, like cottonwood or such ?