I'm starting to think there is something wrong with my plumbing. High filter pressure.

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The chlorinator just unscrews, so I would remove it now.

Remove the set screw and the tubing and unscrew.

Then you can look into the hole to see if it is blocked.

Then you can use a 1.5" PVC threaded cap to cap the top part and a 1/2" NPT plug to plug the side hole.

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Ok. I’m embarrassed now.

Pressure is fine. It’s at about 27 on high (3450 rpm). I have no idea why I was referencing the 30 PSI mark as the 50 PSI mark.

On the upside, I learned a huge about about pool heater and chlorinator plumbing thanks to JamesW. Thanks! On the downside, I wasted everyone’s time.

File this one under “boneheaded”.
 
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AW139 said:
I have no idea why I was referencing the 30 PSI mark as the 50 PSI mark.
Click to expand...
Crooked #s are tricky to squint at. :ROFLMAO:
AW139 said:
On the downside, I wasted everyone’s time
Click to expand...
I always say I'd rather be an idiot for free, then need to spend thousands being smart. No harm, no foul. :cheers:
 
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With every donation, we'll be here longer for next time. We're all volunteers here so we don't get anything for it as it strictly goes to keeping the lights on, but we also don't want to suddenly need a new hobby, so THANKS. :)
 
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27 psi is about 62 feet of head.

If we assume 8 feet for the suction, that makes the total about 70 feet of head.

Suction.....Total......Flow.....System Curve
8...................70..........114.......H = 0.00538627F^2
13................75...........104......H = 0.00693417F^2
18.................80............90.......H = 0.00987654F^2

Filter: H = 0.00077F^2

Flow..................psi...............Feet of head loss (Filter only).
90 GPM..........2.7 psi............6.237 feet
104 GPM.......3.7 psi............8.547 feet
114 GPM......4.3 psi.............9.933 feet

At full speed, the filter contributes about 3 to 4 psi to the pressure.

If we estimate the system curve to be about Curve "C", then the formula is H = 0.0082F^2, which isn't too bad.

Below is a graph of Curve C on the graph of your pump performance curve, which will allow you to estimate the flow at any speed.

We would need the suction pressure and the flow rate to get a better model.




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www.pentair.com

System:3™ SM Series Modular Media Filters

With the System:3 Mod Media Filter, Sta-Rite brings you the product that makes Ultra-Capacity Filtration a reality. No longer simply "cartridges," Sta-Rite's advanced technology has brought an entirely new class of filtration to the industry. Sta-Rite's modular media concept incorporates the...
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full


y=0.0082x^2, x from 0 to 120 - Wolfram|Alpha

Wolfram|Alpha brings expert-level knowledge and capabilities to the broadest possible range of people—spanning all professions and education levels.
www.wolframalpha.com www.wolframalpha.com


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The maximum flow is 100 GPM, which is 0.333 gpm/sqft.

The NSF-recommended flow rate for commercial cartridge filters is 0.375 GPM per square foot, which gives a total flow of about 112.5 GPM.

The heater is limited to 120 GPM.

For heating, I would go to about 40 GPM, which is about 1,500 RPM with a clean filter.

Maybe try 1,725 RPM, which should be a good speed for heating.

Unless you need a higher speed for jets or something, you should not need to go over 1,725 RPM with a clean filter.

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If you can put a temperature sensor downstream of the heater, you can get a temperature rise, which will help figure out the flow rate.

What is this thing (Red arrow)?

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84% efficiency rating.

200,00 btu per hour at 84% efficiency is 168,000 btu/hr.

Temp rise = 168,000/(GPM X 60 X 8.34)

Temp rise = 336/GPM.

Y = temp rise.

X = Flow in GPM.

Y = 336/X

X = 336/Y

If flow = 20 GPM, then the temp rise should be about 16.8 degrees from heater inlet to heater outlet.

If the water temperature going into the heater is 80 degrees, the outlet should be about 96.8 degrees at 20 gpm.

So, you can estimate the flow based on the temperature rise.

For example, if you measure the temp rise at 9.6 degrees, then the flow is about 35 GPM.

You should target a temp rise of about 11.2 degrees (30 GPM) to 8.4 degrees (40 GPM).

As you can see from the below graph, the temp rise at flows beyond 40 GPM does not go down that much.

Once you go below 20 GPM, the temp rise goes up very fast.

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Y = 336/X, y from 5 to 80 - Wolfram|Alpha

Wolfram|Alpha brings expert-level knowledge and capabilities to the broadest possible range of people—spanning all professions and education levels.
www.wolframalpha.com www.wolframalpha.com
 
The red arrow is pointing to the flow switch for the UV system.

I’m home tomorrow night, and I should have the new flow meter on Friday that I will install. Right now the pump runs 24/7 at 1700 RPM, with two short periods of higher in order to skim the pool better. I’m going to start troubleshooting Friday morning to see what I can figure out. Something is wrong here apparently.
 
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It's hard to tell if there is a problem or not.

The pump is very powerful at full speed, so the pressure can be high.

It is probably higher than ideal, but more data will help figure out a better model and allow a better analysis.
 
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For reference, with the same pump, a larger filter (s8m500) and dirt simple plumbing, I run 19 psi at 3000 rpms. 3450 would be in the low 20s and your rig being more complicated could reasonably be 27 psi at full bore IMO.

The chloronator and UV add unnecessary restrictions and I'd remove them at my earliest convenience just because.
 
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Newdude said:
The chloronator and UV add unnecessary restrictions and I'd remove them at my earliest convenience just because.
Click to expand...

It's up there on my list of things to do. The chlorinator is going to come out this year, most likely on Friday. The UV will have to wait, but hopefully in the spring.

Anyone want a smoking deal on a UV system and tab feeder? :)
 
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Newdude said:
For reference, with the same pump, a larger filter (s8m500) and dirt simple plumbing, I run 19 psi at 3000 rpms. 3450 would be in the low 20s and your rig being more complicated could reasonably be 27 psi at full bore IMO.

The chloronator and UV add unnecessary restrictions and I'd remove them at my earliest convenience just because.
Click to expand...

I asked my wife to bring it up to 3000 RPM, and the result was 20.5 PSI. I guess I’m in the ballpark.
 

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Because we're friends I undid the self imposed 3k limit and am pushing 25 psi at 3450 RPMs.

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No need to worry confirmed. (y)

For pucks/tabs we always reccomend a floater anyway, so it can still go. And the UV device is really for helping with algae control from improper sanitizing. If you maintain a properly balanced pool, your daily struggle is against UV loss from the sun, not algae. The UV device gives you *more* UV loss. 🤦‍♂️ It's not alot, but still, the irony. It gives you more FC loss and they claim you can use less FC because of it. :scratch:

Anywho, it'd probably fetch a pretty penny on FB marketplace. There's a line of folks around the corner looking for magic that defies the laws of chemistry.
 
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