Fiberglass staining after slamming,, looking for suggestion.

Jun 5, 2014
60
Marmora, New Jersey
Pool Size
10000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I have a 12k gallon white fiberglass pool.. Recently I had to SLAM my 12,000 gallon, white fiberglass pool that got away from me. My FC was reading zero and it was so cloudy I could not see the steps in the shallow end. Since we were having a bad stretch of weather forecasted for the
next 5 days I elected to slam the pool.

Within 24 hours things appeared to improve dramatically and within 48 hours the pool was crystal clear.

I maintained the shock level for another two days to insure a successful SLAM but then noticed a huge difference it the color of the fiberglass. The pool took on a brownish orange appearance almost like I had an iron issue.

I reduced the PH which did help lighten the staining but it is still very noticeable.
Is this now a permanent color caused by introducing the high chlorine content??

Really not sure how to handle it. I did put in a quart of Iron out but it did absolutely nothing.

Would appreciate any advise.
Gary Blizzard
 
Thanks Marty.. The same water has been in the pool for over a year and the only addition was to top it off when the pool was opened on May 1st. What has me befuddled is the pool has been bright white for the past two months and the problem arose only after I SLAMmed the pool.. My FC is still in the 9-10 area and I'm hoping that when it gets back to 4-5 things will lighten up back to normal. It had to be the heavy load of chlorine that triggered the reaction and I pray that things will get back to normal..
 
If the iron is on the shell, it will not come off by lowering the FC. You will need to do the AA treatment. If you can live with the stain until fall, better to do the treatment then.

Be sure to test with vitamin C as described in the linked article.
 
This may sound like a dumb question but how often do you change the polyfil? If it's in too long you will just wash the iron back into the pool. Also I have a DE filter. I would think that would do a better job of filtering out the iron then Polyfil.. Am I wrong??


blizz

Moved from here.
 
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I am running a DE filter using a Hayward Super pump. I see people talking about using a polyfil system to help rid the suspended metal. DE filters are rated in the area of 2-6 micron so wouldn't that be a much better median to capture and remove deposits instead of Polyfil??

Thanks in advance
Blizz
 
I've always just changed out the polyfill once half, or the majority of it, is brown and stained.
 
Just a quick update on my pool staining. After completing the full Slam and verifying the CC is lower then .5 passing the overnight FC loss test and the water is completely crystal clear. I allowed the FC to settle down in the area of 1ppm. As suspected the brown staining start to fade a bit so I introduced a sequestering agent called Metal-out plus, made by Sunguard. Within 30 hours my fiberglass white pool was white again. I had intended to use ascorbic acid and then follow up with a sequestering chemical but the shipment was delayed and I could not find it anywhere in my area. My PH is still at 7 and I am bringing my FC up a little at a time until it's back to the 5 ppm which is where I normally keep it. As of now I could not be happier. The pool has never looked better... The one thing I now realize is when you super shock a pool you can pretty much count on the high chlorine levels oxidizing any minerals that have leached into the pores of any pool structure, in my case fiberglass thus bringing out the brownish stains. My pool is at least 20 years old and I have filled it many times with my own well water so I know there was iron in the water.

If I am understanding things correctly, there is no sense adding a sequestrant to the pool water when you have a high slam level chlorine count as the sequestrant and chlorine work against each other and delay any beneficial chemical action as far as solving both an algea problem or a staining problem. As I stated, once the slam was completed and the FC levels dropped down, everything turned around and rather quickly.

In a few days I will bring the PH up a bit but I normally only keep it at 7.



I am including a picture of hopefully the finish product.

Thanks again for all the replies and a special thanks to

mknauss

 

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Just remember, the iron is still in the water.

The Metal Out appears to be diphosphonic acid. Likely reacts like citric acid.

Glad things have worked out.
 

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Just remember, the iron is still in the water.

The Metal Out appears to be diphosphonic acid. Likely reacts like citric acid.

Glad things have worked out.
Thanks again Marty,, yes I agree with that assessment but the bottle does also say it is a metal sequestrant so I am keeping my fingers crossed... HAPPY 4TH OF JULY
 

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