Hayward T Cell Early Failure

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G

GreenTerrorPool

Well-known member
Jan 4, 2017
167
PALM BEACH GARDENS, FL
So I have only had this TCell for like 1 year maybe 18 months.
The other day I am getting a solid red on my aquarite reading and a solid yellow ( low salt level) I am gettting 0 on Salt Levl 0 on Amps and 0 Instant Salinity on my readings when I try to recalibrate.

I know I have enouh salt in the pool but I cant get it to reset to test it.

I unpluged the T cell, checked it out for any blockage, sprayed some water in it (ddint due acid cleaning as it is new and looks like it) and then reconnected. Same issue.

Any help?

thanks
 
This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

  • Report all readings when you..
    • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
    • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
    • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
  • What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
Please list all the diagnostic information….

Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:

  • Default salt display
  • Pool temp
  • Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
  • Cell current
  • Desired output (% of the knob)
  • Instant salinity
  • Product name
  • Software revision (r.XX)
  • Cell type
The Hayward Aquarite Troubleshooting Guidelines explains each reading.

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

LOW SALT Message & 0 Salinity, 0 Amps​

The salt cell does not have the DC voltage needed to function. The symptoms correlate to either of the following;

  • Bad In-Rush Current Limiter (RZ3)
  • K1 or K2 Bad solder (most likely suspect)
  • Logic Controller failure (worse case scenario)
A replacement board should fix this issue. If you're technically inclined, you might save the existing board by inspecting the solder or by replacing the relay if determined faulty.
 
I am not getting any voltage to the Salt Cell.
So using this forum I thought I had 1 of these 3 issues:
  • Bad In-Rush Current Limiter (RZ3)
  • K1 or K2 Bad solder (most likely suspect)
  • Logic Controller failure (worse case scenario)
So i sent the board off to this guy: haywardboardrepair.com
he rant it thru some test and said the board is 100% good. I then put the board back in and the same error of no voltage

SO now calling in town Pool Comanies who when I tell them the board is 5 years old they all say it is time to replace it?
I think I just have some type of electrical issue not getting voltage to the cell.
Should I just spend the $150 service call to have a company come out here to then bacisally try to sell me a new board?
 

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This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

  • Report all readings when you..
    • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
    • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
    • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • What are the first seven characters of the cell serial number?
 

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