Thinking of converting

mikeyo87 · May 19, 2023

Hey Guys,

Thinking about converting my pool to salt water. Installed in 2021 and have the Frog pac now and am honestly annoyed about it since im currently doing multiple drains and fillls to lower the CYA this opening and had high copper readings last year as well as chlorine lock with the chlorine not dissolving. Also opened the pool to purple dust which im able to vaccuum but is a pain. We were initially talked out of salt by the pool store smh. I just want to see if my equipment is compatible.

My Pool is a Sharkline Extruder Oasis 15x26 (11500 Gal) Extruded Aluminum, Vinyl Liner
Hayward Perflex Filter E65 DE with a 1.5HP Powerflo LX Pump at 110V (Not Variable)
Heater Electric 75,000BTU ( Aqua Comfort ST-4 2019) This i cant find any information on at all. The new ones i know are titanium however not sure if mine has copper or not. Pool gets full sun hence why we opted for electric vs gas

Looking into either the CircuPool RJ-30 or RJ-45. My Frog pac is already at the end of the piping so installation shouldnt be too much of an issue but just worried about compatibilty more so with my heater

Trees are all gone now older pics area around equipment is much cleaner

Btw my phosphates are allegedly 1100 ppb as per leslie's smh but upon reading the forums here seems like not something to really be concerned about.

zea3 · May 19, 2023

Hi, welcome to TFP! Can you take a photo of the blue and silver label on the upper left corner of your heater? All of your equipment should be compatible with salt water once the excess copper and CYA is removed. Do you have a current set of test results you can post?

mikeyo87 · May 19, 2023

Copper is a lot lower from last year due to the draining. Haven’t tackled the other chemicals yet as I’m trying to get the CYA in check first before hand.

I’ll have to take another picture when I get home of the blue sticker. Anything I should be looking for on that ?

PoolStored · May 19, 2023

I would recommend that your first purchase be a good test kit. BEST investment you can make. Link-->Test Kits Compared

Except for metals testing, I would stay out of the pool store...

Sincerely,
PoolStored.

mikeyo87 · May 19, 2023

Yea those fluctuations is why I got the TF 100.

Mdragger88 · May 19, 2023

First things first- you need to use your own test kit.
Your signature says you have a tf100.
Have you done the diluted cya test?
Step 8

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric Acid (CYA) is the chemical name for what is commonly referred to as Stabilizer … Read more…

www.google.com

If not, do so & post the result. Along with all your other results. Fc,cc, ph, ta, ch
I wouldn’t change anything based on Leslie’s testing. Their copper result isn’t necessarily the best but it’s the easiest most cost effective one to get. All their other test results should be ignored.
You must feed your pool chlorine daily to keep the pool algae free & sanitary.
Fc is paramount, use liquid chlorine now to achieve target fc level
FC/CYA Levels. Use
PoolMath to calculate amounts.

Mdragger88 · May 19, 2023

I can’t find any information about your pool other than it has a lifetime warranty for corrosion- there’s no mention of salt.
Do you have the warranty papers? Is there a salt exclusion?

mikeyo87 · May 19, 2023

Mdragger88 said:
First things first- you need to use your own test kit.
Your signature says you have a tf100.
Have you done the diluted cya test?
Step 8

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric Acid (CYA) is the chemical name for what is commonly referred to as Stabilizer … Read more…

www.google.com

If not, do so & post the result. Along with all your other results. Fc,cc, ph, ta, ch
I wouldn’t change anything based on Leslie’s testing. Their copper result isn’t necessarily the best but it’s the easiest most cost effective one to get. All their other test results should be ignored.
You must feed your pool chlorine daily to keep the pool algae free & sanitary.
Fc is paramount, use liquid chlorine now to achieve target fc level
FC/CYA Levels. Use
PoolMath to calculate amounts.

Did one last night at the CYA was 100. Didn’t dilute it. Did a drain and have to refill once I do I’ll post and test the other chemicals

Mdragger88 · May 19, 2023

mikeyo87 said:
Did one last night at the CYA was 100. Didn’t dilute it. Did a drain and have to refill once I do I’ll post and test the other chemicals

For the copper , none is obviously best but even a 50% water exchange should get the level down low enough that you might avoid potential staining. So it will likely be taken care of by you getting cya to reasonable levels.
How does the water look? Is it cloudy? Is there visible algae? If so you will need to do the
SLAM Process to eradicate it. This is more easily accomplished at lower cya levels (30-50). Afterwards you can then add the amount of stabilizer needed for swg operation.
You want to ensure you are algae free before switching over to a swg for daily chlorination.
As for your heater, chronically low ph has a larger chance of damaging it than normal salt levels do no matter what it’s made of. Titanium is the best heater choice for salt pools but low ph can wreck one of those too.

mikeyo87 · May 19, 2023

Mdragger88 said:
For the copper , none is obviously best but even a 50% water exchange should get the level down low enough that you might avoid potential staining. So it will likely be taken care of by you getting cya to reasonable levels.
How does the water look? Is it cloudy? Is there visible algae? If so you will need to do the
SLAM Process to eradicate it. This is more easily accomplished at lower cya levels (30-50). Afterwards you can then add the amount of stabilizer needed for swg operation.
You want to ensure you are algae free before switching over to a swg for daily chlorination.
As for your heater, chronically low ph has a larger chance of damaging it than normal salt levels do no matter what it’s made of. Titanium is the best heater choice for salt pools but low ph can wreck one of those too.

Water is clear other than the purple dust at the bottom which I read could be Copper Cyanurite. Just waiting on the refill before I test more and balance.

I have the warranty packet just have to look it over.

mikeyo87 · May 19, 2023

Mdragger88 said:
I can’t find any information about your pool other than it has a lifetime warranty for corrosion- there’s no mention of salt.
Do you have the warranty papers? Is there a salt exclusion?

Not sure. I have the paperwork so I’m gunna look it over. I do know it’s made of extruded aluminum. Other stores sell similar pools and claim they’re compatible with salt but my specific brand I’m not sure

zea3 · May 19, 2023

mikeyo87 said:
Copper is a lot lower from last year due to the draining. Haven’t tackled the other chemicals yet as I’m trying to get the CYA in check first before hand.

I’ll have to take another picture when I get home of the blue sticker. Anything I should be looking for on that ?

The blue sticker will have the serial number. The sticker you posted doesn't have that. I think your actual model number may be different than what you posted so I wanted to use the serial number to track it down.

mikeyo87 · May 21, 2023

zea3 said:
The blue sticker will have the serial number. The sticker you posted doesn't have that. I think your actual model number may be different than what you posted so I wanted to use the serial number to track it down.

saw this inside of the system if it helps

mikeyo87 · May 21, 2023

mikeyo87 said:
Not sure. I have the paperwork so I’m gunna look it over. I do know it’s made of extruded aluminum. Other stores sell similar pools and claim they’re compatible with salt but my specific brand I’m not sure

Warranty makes no mention of salt as a void of the warranty or anywhere for that matter

mikeyo87 · May 21, 2023

If i were to convert and if i am compatible would the RJ-30 be enough for my pool which is 11500 gal? Running the pump 8hrs a day

mknauss · May 21, 2023

mikeyo87 said:
would the RJ-30 be enough for my pool which is 11500 gal?

Likely yes in your climate. Might have to up the pump run time during the mid summer.

mikeyo87 · May 22, 2023

Mdragger88 said:
First things first- you need to use your own test kit.
Your signature says you have a tf100.
Have you done the diluted cya test?
Step 8

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric Acid (CYA) is the chemical name for what is commonly referred to as Stabilizer … Read more…

www.google.com

If not, do so & post the result. Along with all your other results. Fc,cc, ph, ta, ch
I wouldn’t change anything based on Leslie’s testing. Their copper result isn’t necessarily the best but it’s the easiest most cost effective one to get. All their other test results should be ignored.
You must feed your pool chlorine daily to keep the pool algae free & sanitary.
Fc is paramount, use liquid chlorine now to achieve target fc level
FC/CYA Levels. Use
PoolMath to calculate amounts.

FC. - 3 ( hit it last night with a half gal of liquid chlorine

PH - 7.6

TC. - 3

CC - 0

TA. 140 / 110 adjusted

Cya - 90 - (101 at Leslie’s )

Calcium - 275

reggiehammond · May 22, 2023

Your CYA is too high and your FC is way too low. You'll need to follow the SLAM process, but your CYA is so high that it'll be impossible.
You'll need to replace water until your CYA is 30-40 and then complete SLAM.

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain

We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.

www.troublefreepool.com

Make sure you SLAM before trying to convert to SWCG.

Mdragger88 · May 22, 2023

What he said

But Before you start exchanging water- do the diluted cya test to be certain of your cya level
Step 8

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric Acid (CYA) is the chemical name for what is commonly referred to as Stabilizer … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

Thinking of converting

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