- Jun 17, 2020
- 150
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)

Yea it’s a bit of a pain. I agree it would be easiest to stain over what is there now but we hate this semi transparent brownish stain and want it gone. That’s gunna take some work I think. I feel like this is going to be the summer of sanding. Maybe once it’s sanded off just do nothing but a light sanding and pressure wash each year I don’t know.That is the price of using real wood.
A clear sealer will wear off and look ratty after a few years.
Whatever you put on will eventually need to be stripped off and reapplied.
I would do a light sand over what you have now and then apply a new coat of stain. It does not need to look as perfect as indoor hardwood stained floors.
Ours is just raw wood. Just replace the wood every 10 years, or try the Trex type of plastic wood. Those tend to need more support beams than traditional lumber though.Yea it’s a bit of a pain. I agree it would be easiest to stain over what is there now but we hate this semi transparent brownish stain and want it gone. That’s gunna take some work I think. I feel like this is going to be the summer of sanding. Maybe once it’s sanded off just do nothing but a light sanding and pressure wash each year I don’t know.
Thanks I feel like this is what I wanted to hear. I think it’s prob easiest. Half the deck is about 10 years older then some of the newer stuff directly around the pool. When it was built we had it integrated into the existing part closer to the house. I have seen some of the trex stuff and it looks decent. Maybe I’ll replace half of the deck with that in a couple years then do the rest down the road.Ours is just raw wood. Just replace the wood every 10 years, or try the Trex type of plastic wood. Those tend to need more support beams than traditional limber though.
Ours used to be painted and all of the paint has worn off. So it’s been sun beaten for a while and now needs to be replaced.Thanks I feel like this is what I wanted to hear. I think it’s prob easiest. Half the deck is about 10 years older then some of the newer stuff directly around the pool. When it was built we had it integrated into the existing part closer to the house. I have seen some of the trex stuff and it looks decent. Maybe I’ll replace half of the deck with that in a couple years then do the rest down the road.
Ok thanks. I don’t mind having to do a light sanding and pressure wash every year or two but I can’t get my head around staining this thing once every three years.Ours used to be painted and all of the paint has worn off. So it’s been sun beaten for a while and now needs to be replaced.
I have a Timbertech deck, if you're going to replace some - do the whole thing. My deck boards are no longer made and my color is limited to one type of board I think. Timbertech required 12" on center supports vs 16". Both Trex and Timbertech (don't know if any other brands are out there) are low maintenance not no maintenance. They may stain fairly easy so if you drop a burger on it the stain will live on and at least the Timbertech gets hot to the touch... great for melting snow.Thanks I feel like this is what I wanted to hear. I think it’s prob easiest. Half the deck is about 10 years older then some of the newer stuff directly around the pool. When it was built we had it integrated into the existing part closer to the house. I have seen some of the trex stuff and it looks decent. Maybe I’ll replace half of the deck with that in a couple years then do the rest down the road.
Yea I kinda got a weird situation. Part of the deck closer to the house out to about 12 feet is older. In fact that portion is now 12 years old pressure treated spruce. Beyond 12 feet up to the pool and then the areas at the ends of the pool were built when the pool was put in (August of 2019). The stain definitely doesn’t adhere as well to the older part of the deck due to the age of the wood. I’ve started to sand it off and it looks decent, and I think I’ll end up sanding the whole thing over the next couple of months. From there, just not sure but def won’t be doing a darker stain like we did initially. The goal is less maintenance. Replacing the whole thing for engineered Trex stuff is not in the budget either. Wood and trex prices here are still relatively high. Appreciate the ideas though. The oil idea is interesting and if it doesn’t come off could be an option. Might try a small area to see. But this year might just sand it all down and do nothing and see how it looks next spring.
So I started to research a bit more into this whole staining business and I noticed that Behr (and prob most other brands that do stains) also make what they call a wood penetrating oil. You can get it tinted as well. So I think maybe you are on to something with the wood oils. Anyway, they are made for decks, and I guess they do have some added benefit over stains in that they provide a bit more weatherproofing and potentially less peeling. From what I’ve read in reviews the downside is they are more difficult to apply, but apparently if you use a pad and not a brush or roller it is much easier. So I think I’m going to give this a go. It’ll likely take a month or so because I’m going to first get a chemical stripper to take most of the existing stain off, then power wash it, then sand it, then do the oil. Will report back with pics. Gunna kill my back for sure so hope it’s worth it. Appreciate the advice here.Not that I’m some kind of (Tung) nut, but the oil is pretty permanent. It’s a “drying” oil, similar to linseed oil, whereby the oil reacts with oxygen in the air and the natural porosity of the wood to created a hardened layer that is “inside” the wood and not just sitting on top (“penetrating” oil is the keyword). It’s water resistant once it dries. This is a picture of what it looks like on a utensil handle after it’s saturated and ragged off-
View attachment 491705
Compared to the original wood -
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So it does deepen the color a bit. It turns a honey brown fully dried. It’s also not glossy after it dries. Some people will oil wood, allow it several weeks to fully cure and then put a urethane sealer over it to give a glassy finish. But that’s usually on wood household items and furniture. On a deck, the oiled wood would be sufficient.
I think the biggest downside would be the manual labor of applying it and then ragging it off and then the long cure time (days to week). During the setup time, the surface will leave an oily residue when you touch it.
It’s pretty amazing stuff but it’s probably a boat-load of work for a large deck.
That’s a good idea.Maybe see if you can rent an orbital floor sander. That way you can save your back a bit.
I’ve been using a hand held orbital sander when I have a spare hour. Doing a bit at a time. The results are pretty clean so far actually. I don’t think I’ll need to use a stripper. It’s slow going, but not to bad, especially on the part of the deck that is only a few years old.kind of a crappy pic I took out the window and had to zoom it in a bit.Maybe see if you can rent an orbital floor sander. That way you can save your back a bit.