SWG timer

Jan 22, 2017
65
Charlotte, NC
Pool Size
14000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Truclear / Ei
The clock in the middle of the timer that keeps the current time has stopped working. So we need to replace it. Any recommendations for a SWG timer? Any good wi-fi timers? We need freeze protect. Thanks!
 

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You indicate you have iAquaLink - do you have a Jandy Aqualink automation system? Where is the clock and what is connected to it?
Maybe a couple pictures of your overall equipment pad and AquaLink box. Thanks.
 
We do have Jandy system with a variable speed pump. The timer only controls the SWG, but the freeze protect inside the timer controls the pump. We need the pump to come on independent of the SWG so we can run in the winter. I’m having trouble finding a suitable replacement timer/freeze protection combo.
I bought a PF1102-T but then noticed there is no neutral wire and the current timer has one. Not sure where to go from here.
 
We do have Jandy system with a variable speed pump. The timer only controls the SWG, but the freeze protect inside the timer controls the pump. We need the pump to come on independent of the SWG so we can run in the winter. I’m having trouble finding a suitable replacement timer/freeze protection combo.
I bought a PF1102-T but then noticed there is no neutral wire and the current timer has one. Not sure where to go from here.
Maybe post a picture of your "Jandy system". The Aqualink software has freeze protection that you can set so you don't need the time for the freeze protection. Your signature says iAquaLink so trying to figure what system you have.
 
Ok. I now understand what you have. I know that @Rancho Cost-a-Lotta used a wifi timer. Below is a snippet of one of his posts. He can probably guide you better on the capabilities to meet your needs

"Since I have a VS pump, I use a series of WiFi relays to control pump speeds, valve actuators, and the SWG. More details are linked in my signature.

I control my heater operation with a Sonoff TH-16 with DS18B20 probe connected to 120 volts. The switch is connected to a dry contact relay, which connects to the heater's fireman's switch through low voltage wire. I used a thermowell threaded into a tee-fitting for the probe. The switch works with the eWelink app, Alexa, Google Home/HA, Smart Things and others. . I use Alexa Routines to control most daily actions. The heater is programmed to shut off 15 minutes before the pump."
 
I bought a PF1102-T but then noticed there is no neutral wire and the current timer has one. Not sure where to go from here.
It looks like the PF1102MT is intended for 240 volt applications only (no neutral). Check out the Intermatic PF1103MT. It's designed for 120/240 volt applications and has provisions for use with a neutral wire.

Sorry, I can't recommend a standalone WiFi timer with freeze protection.
 
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@Rancho Cost-a-Lotta thank you for the help. I pulled out my old timer today and hoping you could confirm the PF1103MT will work Before I drop $ on it. Current wiring is: Line 1 and 2 are the panel and pump; Load 1 and 2 are the SWG
Question is what is the auxiliary port? It’s bridged from the L1 As shown in the picture. The 1103MT doesn’t have that.
 

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Current wiring is: Line 1 and 2 are the panel and pump; Load 1 and 2 are the SWG

I am not quite understanding what your system is actually doing.

Line 1+2 should be the incoming power, not switched by the timer/freeze protection, and Load 1+2 are switched on/off by the timer/freeze protection.

Your description above sounds like pump and panel are on permanent power, and the SWG is switched on/off by timer or freeze protection events. That seems to imply that your pump is either permanently running, or there is another feature in your system that turns the pump on when the SWG turns on.

I don't think that this setup is achieving your goal as described here:

We need the pump to come on independent of the SWG so we can run in the winter.


And just for my understanding, which of your equipment is running on 120V and which are on 240V (ignorant Aussie here, we just run everything on 240V, so I am not familiar with spotting which devices typically run on which voltage)?

In your last picture there are two red cables on Load 1, but only one black cable on Load 2. Could it be that both, pump and SWG, are connected to Load? One of them is on 240V and needs to be connected to Load 1, Load 2 and Neutral, and the other one is on 120V and only needs to be connected to Load 1 and Neutral. And only the panel is connected to permanent power supply on Line 1 and Neutral (if on 120V) or Line 1 Line 2 and Neutral (if on 240V).

That would mean that both, pump and SWG, are turned on by freeze protection, but the SWG doesn't produce chlorine due to cold water shut off.

Looking through through the manual


...makes me think that the pf1103t should be capable of copying your setup.

But this statement in the manual worries me a bit:

Both models are designed to operate either on 120 Volt or 240 Volt, 60 cycle. When used on 240 Volt however, the neutral wire must be installed and it is not recommended for controlling 240 Volt GFCI protected equipment. For such application, use Model PF1102T Time Control with Freeze Protection.

I assume that all of your equipment is GFCI protected? I am not familiar enough with US 120/240V setups to understand the background of the GFCI caveat in the manual.

I also don't understand US wiring well enough to see why the GND in the pf1102t couldn't be used as Neutral.

Maybe someone like @JamesW would be the right person to help here?
 
Yes, everything is GFCI protected. I tried to put more detail on what exactly is going on with the new picture. In practice, the way the company wired it the variable speed pump and the panel box share Line 1&2 connections so it is wired hot all the time. I control run time with iaqualink. The SWG is wired to the load side and comes on with the timer (which failed). In winter we simply turn the timer off with the switch so SWG doesn’t run, but the freeze protection still starts the pump when needed.
 

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Why do you need the timer?

Remove the timer, change your SWG to 240V, and wire it into the LOAD side of the filter pump relay in your Aqualink. That is the way your system is designed to work.
 
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