Hello! A little background: Our heater is a little over 2 years old and is still under warranty. We got it right before the TX freeze 2 years ago. After the freeze, there was a tiny leak, I used some marine epoxy on where I thought the leak was (bottom near outlet) and it didn't seem to help but then after time, we never noticed the leak again. The heater continued to work perfectly for 2 years.
A few months ago, our heater would heat normally until it reached 79 and then it would cycle on/off every 60/90 seconds. I know this is a common problem. Called it in since it was still under warranty. Pool people came out, opened it up and said, there is a crack in the manifold - probably from the freeze and Pentair probably won't cover it. He called me back several hours later and said it isn't covered. Sent me a $135 bill for the service call and then an estimate for $1K to replace the manifold and thermal regulator. After I did some research, I thought the issue was either the high limit switch or the thermal regulator. My test I believe confirms it is the thermal regulator. My thinking is it is two separate issues. Yes, there is evidence of a crack from 2 years ago but that's not what is causing my cycling problem. The faulty thermal regulator is. The crack is not near the thermal regulator (honestly, I can't see it at all but do see some erosion on 3 bolts so know it is there somewhere). Can a crack in the manifold affect the thermal regultor? They are separate issues, correct? I think Pentair should replace the thermal regulator and cover the service call.
Also, the tech said the thermal regulator is corroded and that's a pool chemistry issue. My husband keeps our pool chemistry great - although he keeps the alkalinity between 60-80 - usually around 70 (we have a salt pool). The tech says it should be 100-140. Looked at the Pentair heater manual and it says min is 60, (which we never go below), but ideal is 80-100. Should he raise our alkalinity? Could 60 TA cause the thermal regulator to corrode?
Thanks!
A few months ago, our heater would heat normally until it reached 79 and then it would cycle on/off every 60/90 seconds. I know this is a common problem. Called it in since it was still under warranty. Pool people came out, opened it up and said, there is a crack in the manifold - probably from the freeze and Pentair probably won't cover it. He called me back several hours later and said it isn't covered. Sent me a $135 bill for the service call and then an estimate for $1K to replace the manifold and thermal regulator. After I did some research, I thought the issue was either the high limit switch or the thermal regulator. My test I believe confirms it is the thermal regulator. My thinking is it is two separate issues. Yes, there is evidence of a crack from 2 years ago but that's not what is causing my cycling problem. The faulty thermal regulator is. The crack is not near the thermal regulator (honestly, I can't see it at all but do see some erosion on 3 bolts so know it is there somewhere). Can a crack in the manifold affect the thermal regultor? They are separate issues, correct? I think Pentair should replace the thermal regulator and cover the service call.
Also, the tech said the thermal regulator is corroded and that's a pool chemistry issue. My husband keeps our pool chemistry great - although he keeps the alkalinity between 60-80 - usually around 70 (we have a salt pool). The tech says it should be 100-140. Looked at the Pentair heater manual and it says min is 60, (which we never go below), but ideal is 80-100. Should he raise our alkalinity? Could 60 TA cause the thermal regulator to corrode?
Thanks!
