LRZ250EN NG not getting power to the gas valve and I replaced the ignition control with no luck. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Zofitness1 · Feb 20, 2023

LRZ250EN NG not getting power to the gas valve and I replaced the ignition control with no luck.

Went through the steps on https://www.fwwebb.com/docs/gas/JandyPoolHeaterTroubleshootingGuides.pdf and stuck on 13 as replacing the ign control was the only option for no power to gas valve so here I am.

ajw22 · Feb 21, 2023

Welcome to TFP.

Lets see if @swamprat69 is around to help you.

swamprat69 · Feb 21, 2023

Can you confirm that the wiring/connection diagram is exactly as shown on the troubleshooting guide that you listed? I have to assume that you are using a multimeter and are both competent and safe in its use. Please note that if the diagram shown is correct, the "B" connection from the power supply to the ignitor ( male {bare} side of the quick connect to the ignitor ) is always hot to ground ( possibly you)! Photo of fenwal ignition module is too close up. Would be helpful if you backed off on the photo to show all info on the label. When you say that you are "stuck" on step 13, do you mean that you are not getting 24V to the gas valve and every other measurement in the troubleshooting up to that point has been correct? How are you measuring the voltage to the gas valve?

Zofitness1 · Feb 21, 2023

swamprat69 said:
Can you confirm that the wiring/connection diagram is exactly as shown on the troubleshooting guide that you listed? I have to assume that you are using a multimeter and are both competent and safe in its use. Please note that if the diagram shown is correct, the "B" connection from the power supply to the ignitor ( male {bare} side of the quick connect to the ignitor ) is always hot to ground ( possibly you)! Photo of fenwal ignition module is too close up. Would be helpful if you backed off on the photo to show all info on the label. When you say that you are "stuck" on step 13, do you mean that you are not getting 24V to the gas valve and every other measurement in the troubleshooting up to that point has been correct? How are you measuring the voltage to the gas valve?

Thank you for your response. The diagram is exact and I’m competent and safe with the use of a multimeter. That’s correct, I’m not getting 24v to the gas valve when the igniter heats up and every other measurement is correct up until that point. After the igniter heats up there is a click in the ignition module and the voltage flashes up (never makes it to 24v) for a split second and then back to zeros

Zofitness1 · Feb 21, 2023

swamprat69 said:
Can you confirm that the wiring/connection diagram is exactly as shown on the troubleshooting guide that you listed? I have to assume that you are using a multimeter and are both competent and safe in its use. Please note that if the diagram shown is correct, the "B" connection from the power supply to the ignitor ( male {bare} side of the quick connect to the ignitor ) is always hot to ground ( possibly you)! Photo of fenwal ignition module is too close up. Would be helpful if you backed off on the photo to show all info on the label. When you say that you are "stuck" on step 13, do you mean that you are not getting 24V to the gas valve and every other measurement in the troubleshooting up to that point has been correct? How are you measuring the voltage to the gas valve?

Here’s a better pic. I should also mention that it worked fine for the last 2 years but hadn’t been used for about 2 months.

ajw22 · Feb 21, 2023

Zofitness1 said:
Here’s a better pic. I should also mention that it worked fine for the last 2 years but hadn’t been used for about 2 months.

Please move the wiring out of the way so all the data on the label is readable as well as showing the wire connections to the Fenwal.

Zofitness1 · Feb 21, 2023

ajw22 said:
Please move the wiring out of the way so all the data on the label is readable as well as showing the wire connections to the Fenwal.

swamprat69 · Feb 21, 2023

I would disconnect the 2 wires at the gas valve and measure the voltage at the wires with the valve disconnected to see if the voltage drops without the gas valve load. Also a full photo of the gas valve tag information would also be useful. Just wondering if the gas valve is a Honeywell VR8105H/VR8205H and what other info is on the tag.

Zofitness1 · Feb 21, 2023

swamprat69 said:
I would disconnect the 2 wires at the gas valve and measure the voltage at the wires with the valve disconnected to see if the voltage drops without the gas valve load. Also a full photo of the gas valve tag information would also be useful. Just wondering if the gas valve is a Honeywell VR8105H/VR8205H and what other info is on the tag.

No voltage when disconnected from the gas valve (same as when connected)

Zofitness1 · Feb 21, 2023

Now getting a fuse link fault.

swamprat69 · Feb 21, 2023

I thought that you stated that the gas valve voltage climbed very briefly before going to 0 volts? If the fusible link is open, you may have larger problems with the heater. From the full front photo of the heater, I see what seems to be a rusted though hole on the right side of the burner box outside framing and excessive corrosion on the gas valve piping and gas valve. This may be indicative of flue gas spillage out the front of the burner box from a heat exchanger blockage or sooting. This would also open the fusible link as a safety. Just replacing the fusible link is not the solution as the problem that caused the fusible link to open needs to be addressed.

Zofitness1 · Feb 21, 2023

swamprat69 said:
I thought that you stated that the gas valve voltage climbed very briefly before going to 0 volts? If the fusible link is open, you may have larger problems with the heater. From the full front photo of the heater, I see what seems to be a rusted though hole on the right side of the burner box outside framing and excessive corrosion on the gas valve piping and gas valve. This may be indicative of flue gas spillage out the front of the burner box from a heat exchanger blockage or sooting. This would also open the fusible link as a safety. Just replacing the fusible link is not the solution as the problem that caused the fusible link to open needs to be addressed.

Yes, it climbed for a split second when disconnected, exactly the same way as it did when it was connected. Definitely not a hole on the right side of the box, that's just paint. No issues with the front of the unit when it comes to heat, I bypassed the top fusible link to test and it fired up so replacing the link Thurs and then run the tests again

Zofitness1 · Feb 23, 2023

Changed the fusible link and now it’s back to check ign control

Poolbreh · Feb 23, 2023

The voltage is usually nominal at the gas valve. It sounds like the gas valve opens but doesn’t register flame sensor in time and is shut down. If you have compressed air you can clean out the gas jet heads and burner tray. Anytime the fusible link fails, it’s always a cause of concern. Meaning there is a good chance at one point the flames triggered it by coming out the front. It’s probably a good idea to break down the heater and clean the exchanger and everything thoroughly. You may need to verify gas pressure with a manometer if that doesn’t work.

Zofitness1 · Feb 23, 2023

Poolbreh said:
The voltage is usually nominal at the gas valve. It sounds like the gas valve opens but doesn’t register flame sensor in time and is shut down. If you have compressed air you can clean out the gas jet heads and burner tray. Anytime the fusible link fails, it’s always a cause of concern. Meaning there is a good chance at one point the flames triggered it by coming out the front. It’s probably a good idea to break down the heater and clean the exchanger and everything thoroughly. You may need to verify gas pressure with a manometer if that doesn’t work.

Breaking down the heater and cleaning everything was the key! Found mice had gotten to fusible link wire and remote wiring but oddly enough the the wiring was still touching so got the proper voltage when checked. Fixed the wiring and fired right up. Thank you.

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