Protection shed - ideas

Jump to latest Follow Reply
N

nabril15

Silver Supporter
Bronze Supporter
May 22, 2011
668
Miami, FL
Pool Size
16400
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-45
Hello all
Years ago, I built the shed in the picture to protect my pool's equipment using pressure-treated fence boards.
It measures 51" wide by 71" long, and consists of 3 panels each consisting of 3 fence boards held together by a board underneath. I can easily remove 1 or all 3 panels to reach the equipment underneath.
While they're not the heaviest, I'd like to replace them with a lighter option that's affordable. In addition, they're starting to slowly decay and tear.

I came across vinyl/plastic wavy roofing as an option, but it looks weak and thin. I looked at composite wood, cedar, and others but the prices are high.

Do you have any suggestions?
Thank you

IMG_20230220_212157.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
  • Like
Reactions: Aldis
An idea I just thought of... Using vinyl flooring panels. They're waterproof, would click together except for one edge, they're light, and not too expensive for this size.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Aldis and markayash
kimkats said:
Those could work. You could also use shade fabric. You could use small PVC pipe to make the "frames" for it. Would be super light and easy to make.
Click to expand...
Thank you FelineKim
That's an astute suggestion.
But, being that they would be exposed, they would get wet and eventually moldy. Being fabric, they'd be easy to hose off.
How would I attach them to those pvc pipes? Wrap the fabric around the pipes, but then what? I could use metal screw clamps to tighten the fabric, but I'd have to make small holes in the fabric.
 
nabril15 said:
Years ago, I built the shed in the picture to protect my pool's equipment using pressure-treated fence boards.
Click to expand...
I like what you did. I did something similar, although a bit more involved. I used pressure treated lumber to build a frame around my equipment and sheathed the sides with cedar fence pickets. The top is sheathing plywood topped with galvanized (wavy) roof panels. It still looks good after 6 years. Each spring, I give it a coat of Thompson's Water Seal.

20171125_110001.jpg

20171201_164446.jpg

My in laws made a frame using PVC and sheathed it with bamboo fence roll. The top is covered with fronds from their palm trees. It looks like a little tiki hut.
 
Last edited:
  • Love
  • Like
Reactions: kimkats and Aldis
Maybe you can try to save what you have now. Start with a good coat of Thompson's water seal to protect it from further damage. I know construction material costs have gone through the roof.
 
  • Like
Reactions: nabril15
I have used the Ondura Corrugated Asphalt Roof Panels for a number of things (including roofs on sheds)

us.onduline.com

Corrugated Asphalt Roof Panel | ONDURA Premium Series 9

/*-->*/ /*-->*/ Ashpalt Roof Panel | 9 Corrugation Roofing Panel
us.onduline.com us.onduline.com

They are not the lightest things, but since your application is pretty small, the cut down panel would be pretty light.

They are durable, but if you flex them too much they will crack.

In your case I would make a frame the size of your roof out of 2x2 PT and then attach the roof panel to it.

I also have a greenhouse I built out of the polycarbonate panels you mentioned (of course asphalt based panels do not let the sun in). It does start to degrade and get hazy. It is not the most pretty looking stuff after a few seasons.
 
  • Like
Reactions: nabril15

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Yeah Mike, that's not a bad suggestion. Not all the boards are cracked and bent. I just saw PT fence boards priced at $1.88 and I need 9, so replacing them all isn't a huge expense. I was looking for an equivalent and lighter option. Each of my 3 panels with 3 boards weights ~ 10 pounds or so, which isn't horrific. And when it rains, that wood absorbs a lot of the noise. If I replace them with plastic or some other material, I will hear it since my living room is right on the other side of that wall.
 
What about rebuilding it pretty much as it is, but Bilco door style ? The hinges would support most of the load when opening.

Build it solid and you won't think about it for 20 years. The lightweight solutions are great on paper but you'll be revisiting them every other season.
 
phonedave said:
What about rebuilding it pretty much as it is, but Bilco door style ? The hinges would support most of the load when opening.

Build it solid and you won't think about it for 20 years. The lightweight solutions are great on paper but you'll be revisiting them every other season.
Click to expand...
Wow Dave. Those look awesome. What I built looks like the entrance to a bunker or basement, so why not add the doors to match, right? They're also pretty pricey.
I think that I'll just rebuild what I have with 9 new boards, and for now, I can certainly handle the 3 x 10 lb lifts whenever I need to clean the filter or do any maintenance. I'll stain them, and add a water seal since I didn't think to add the seal when I built it 8 or 9 years ago.
 
nabril15 said:
What I built looks like the entrance to a bunker or basement, so why not add the doors to match, right? They're also pretty pricey.
Click to expand...
I meant to build your own in the style you have, but modify the doors Bilco style to make getting in their easier. (y)
 
  • Like
Reactions: nabril15
nabril15 said:
Wow Dave. Those look awesome. What I built looks like the entrance to a bunker or basement, so why not add the doors to match, right? They're also pretty pricey.
I think that I'll just rebuild what I have with 9 new boards, and for now, I can certainly handle the 3 x 10 lb lifts whenever I need to clean the filter or do any maintenance. I'll stain them, and add a water seal since I didn't think to add the seal when I built it 8 or 9 years ago.
Click to expand...
I tend to overbuild everything I do, so this is what I would do.

I would build the side walls out of the material you already used.
I would make the front two hinged doors, that open out, for when you have to do something like swap out equipment.
I would make the top out of the Ondura, with a hinge along the back and either a manual prop stick or, if I could find one that works for the application, a gas strut.

Like the one I already built :) Clearly the top does not go up since it is under a deck.

I'll be hanging more of those panels as an underdeck rain collection system from that new lumber so I can use part of the hot tub in the rain.


2023-02-23_12-18-50.jpg
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply