Advice on hard plumbing

Welcome to TFP.
Not sure why you need a Jandy diverter valve but the 1.5” to 2” designation means you can connect 1.5” PVC by inserting the straight pipe “into” the diverter valve connection. If you are connecting 2” PVC then the straight pipe fits “over” the diverter valve connection.

If you just want to add length to the pipe to create the 12 ft distance, you need to determine the size of your existing pipe. 1.5” PVC has an OD of 1.9inches and 2” PVC has an OD of 2.4 inches. You will need some couplings, some elbows or 45 deg bends and straight pipe depending if the 12 ft is a straight line from the pool connections or if you are going around a bend. I assume you have to connect both the suction side and the return plumbing when you move the pump/filter out 12 ft.

You may want to post some pictures or hand draw a diagram of what you are trying to do.

I have the same set up as you, except my pool is not semi-inground. Still, I try to avoid crawling around under my deck unless I have to.

When I hard piped my pool, I used some old sections of 6x6 timber I had laying around. I put a piece directly under my skimmer and under my return to support the pipes. I also put a few pieces under the pipe runs to the filter pad and use some 2 hole straps the hold the pipes down so nothing moves around. I do not have unions or valves near my skimmer. I do have unions next to my return, because that is where my inline SWCG goes - so I get to crawl under the deck 2x a year to install and remove it. I have unions and valves on both the suction and return next to my filter/pump. They do tend to take a beating from being in the sun and snow and general weather. I have replaced them (unions and valves) once in 10 years. I did use the standard PVC ball valves from the big box store. They get 'crunchy' pretty quickly. For me that is OK because I do not use them that often, and if I really have to, I can plug my skimmer and return. The Jandy valves are much better and when it comes time to replace I may spring for them. You can also rebuild the Jandy valves. I find with the unions, either the threaded rings crack (and I don't crank the heck out them either) or the O-Rings fail. O-Rings are easy, you can make your own. It is the threaded rings that are the issue. They are not a standard size, so you cannot just get a new one, and even if somehow you do, you would have to cut the pipe anyway to get it on. I'm really thinking of changing the unions out to camlocks in the spring. I don't know why I never had that thought before.

RSC said:

Thanks for all the input. I am gathering all the pieces I need, probably won't glue it up until spring. I grabbed some unions, but I like the camlock idea. Which ones do you recommend? I did see some that were only rated at 100psi, do you think that would be sufficient?

I said the equipment would be about 12 feet away, well that was a really bad estimate. I measured and the return line will be about 26 feet if I put it where I want it. Is that too long?

Thanks for everyones help

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25 feet is fine. That's about how far my equipment pad is from my pool, and I have no problems. 1.5 inch PVC, buried in the ground. Regular above ground pump, 1.5hp two-speed, I see about 16 gpm on low speed and 36 gpm on high speed.

RSC said:

Thanks for all the input. I am gathering all the pieces I need, probably won't glue it up until spring. I grabbed some unions, but I like the camlock idea. Which ones do you recommend? I did see some that were only rated at 100psi, do you think that would be sufficient?

I said the equipment would be about 12 feet away, well that was a really bad estimate. I measured and the return line will be about 26 feet if I put it where I want it. Is that too long?

Thanks for everyones help

Click to expand...

I have not switched to camlocks yet. That is going to be some late winter research for a spring install.

100 psi should be plenty in a normal pool.