New Pool Owner Needs Help with Test Results and Pool Math

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plays10s

Well-known member
Mar 2, 2022
58
Carrollton, GA
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Hi - I'm a new pool owner with a SWG. They just added 10 bags of salt about two weeks ago. This is my first test with the TF-100 Pro Salt. Could someone tell me two things: 1) What do I need to add and how much to get my water values correct? And 2) I put them in Pool Math, but I don't know what to look at to have it tell me what to add. I'm under the impression that it will do that. Step-by-step instructions would be appreciated as I'm a newbie plus not technologically gifted. Thanks.
FC - 1
CC - 0
TC - 1
pH - 8.2 (at least)
TA - 100
CH - 225
CYA - 30
Borate - 0

Thanks a ton!
LaDonna
 
Last edited:
So how 'bout that first test ? Once you got over the hump to try, it wasn't bad at all, was it ? We all thought we couldn't, but felt silly realizing that the hardest part was counting to 5. 🤦‍♂️

Not gonna lie. Things were thrown upon realizong how easy it was. :ROFLMAO:

OK so let's do FC and they all have a similar way to them so once you get one down, you can do it all.

Open pool math and the main page comes up. Click on whatever one you want to play with. This time is FC.

Screenshot_20221007-185145.jpg


Fill in field 1 for your CYA level.
#2 is your current FC
#3 is the FC you want to be
#4 is the many kinds of chlorine you can use

Screenshot_20221007-185216.jpg

Then, at the bottom, it tells you what to add

Screenshot_20221007-185220.jpg

Follow the FC/CYA Levels. While you learn your SWG and how the pool responds, you'd be best off using the bleach / liquid chlorine side of the chart. It will give you some wiggle room for error.

Anytime you find the SWG isn't producing enough chlorine, like now, you want to spike the FC immediately with bleach. Once it's back to normal, then the SWG can maintain it if everything else is ok.
 
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OK. OK. FiNE. We can do PH too. :)

Click on PH

#1 is the current PH
#2 is the preferred PH
#3 is the TA (which is related)
#4 is the many kinds of Muriatic acid to use

Screenshot_20221007-190503.jpg



Then at the bottom, BOOM



Screenshot_20221007-190524.jpg



negan-negan-smith.gif
 
plays10s said:
1) What do I need to add and how much to get my water values correct?
Click to expand...
In addition to the excellent step by step guide given by @Newdude , you want to target these values for a plaster pool with a SWCG.

pH 7.6 to 7.8 - add MA
TA 60 to 80 - when you add MA to lower pH you will also lower TA but it will be a much less drop - you lower TA over time and not try to do it in one big dose as it will drop your pH too low too quickly
CH - 350 to 550 - this can be done in stages to increase CH as you do not want to overshoot the value - target the 350 to 400 range with your dosing
CYA - 70 to 80 - again this can be done in stages to increase CYA as you do not want to overshoot the value
FC - your FC value is based on your current CYA value per the FC/CYA Levels. Right now, put enough LC to get it to 5ppm and then let the SWCG maintain it there as you work your CYA upwards
Salt - you indicate salt was added but there was no test - always verify that salt level is in range for your SWCG before starting your SWCG.
When making adjustments to FC & pH, always wait 30 minutes between additions of the LC and MA
 
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Newdude said:
So how 'bout that first test ? Once you got over the hump to try, it wasn't bad at all, was it ? We all thought we couldn't, but felt silly realizing that the hardest part was counting to 5. 🤦‍♂️

Not gonna lie. Things were thrown upon realizong how easy it was. :ROFLMAO:

OK so let's do FC and they all have a similar way to them so once you get one down, you can do it all.

Open pool math and the main page comes up. Click on whatever one you want to play with. This time is FC.

View attachment 457188


Fill in field 1 for your CYA level.
#2 is your current FC
#3 is the FC you want to be
#4 is the many kinds of chlorine you can use

View attachment 457189

Then, at the bottom, it tells you what to add

View attachment 457191

Follow the FC/CYA Levels. While you learn your SWG and how the pool responds, you'd be best off using the bleach / liquid chlorine side of the chart. It will give you some wiggle room for error.

Anytime you find the SWG isn't producing enough chlorine, like now, you want to spike the FC immediately with bleach. Once it's back to normal, then the SWG can maintain it if everything else is ok.
Click to expand...
I understand what you are saying now, and I did it. But, now I'm more confused. So, I took my "Pool Math" calculator to three pool stores this morning in our town. Each one of them said the recommended values on this calculator were way out of range. They all said basically they didn't know what calculator I was using but I needed to get another one. I know with this many people liking this pool forum, it can't be wrong.
Can you please explain the following to me:

1. My FC is 1. PM calculator recommends 2-6; Their recommendations are 1-4. They say don't let it get over 5. They told me not to add any bleach, although PMC says add 51 oz. What do I do?
2. My pH is 8.2. PMC recommends 7.2-8 with ideal being 7.6-7.8. They say 7.2-7.6 I will be adding the 30 oz of MA this morning.
3. My TA is 100. Recommended is 50-90; ideal is 60-80. They say 90-150 is ideal. Which is it?
4. My CH is 225. Recommended is 250-650; ideal is 350-550. They said recommended range is 200-300, so don't add anything. PMC says to add 42 pounds of calcium chloride. They are saying ABSOLUTELY NOT; it will make my water cloudy. Which is it?
5. My CYA is 30. Recommended is 60-90 with ideal being 70-80. Their ranges are 30-80 so they say don't add anything, it's all good. PMC says to add 5 pounds or 80 oz of stabilizer. Which is it? I really thought the Pool Math Calculator was going to help me, but according to three stores in town, it's way off base. I know this just can't be.

What do you think about this? About what I should add? I think I'm safe with adding the MA, so I'm headed out to do that. Thanks for any help you can give me. You have a way of making everything complex seem simple.

LaDonna
 
Your concerns are not uncommon for newcomers to the TFP forum.
The TFP process if based on the use of the FC/CYA Levels which pool stores ignore. First component is the CYA level - stabilizer protects the chlorine from being consumed by the sun's UV. Since your SWCG puts out a small amount of chlorine on a consistent basis while the pump is running, the higher CYA range protects that chlorine from quickly burning off. Having your CYA lower may require you to run your SWCG at a higher % to ensure you maintain your desired FC level.
The second component is FC level. Science has shown that as CYA increases, the sanitation capability of chlorine decreases. Therefore, you have to increase the FC to maintain the proper sanitation level. Pool stores follow the traditional 1-4ppm level for FC but if you read other threads in the forum, those pool owners are constantly fighting algae because that level of FC is not sufficient to kill bacteria. There is no danger if you follow the guidelines of the CYA/FC chart. Note that there is a tab for those using liquid chlorine and those using SWCGs.
 
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plays10s said:
My pH is 8.2. PMC recommends 7.2-8 with ideal being 7.6-7.8. They say 7.2-7.6 I will be adding the 30 oz of MA this morning.
3. My TA is 100. Recommended is 50-90; ideal is 60-80. They say 90-150 is ideal. Which is it?
Click to expand...
This is also a common difference between pool store recommendations and TFP.
Traditionally, pool stores assume most everyone is using trichlor pucks. These pucks are made of stabilizer (CYA), chlorine and acid. Acid (both CYA and MA), lowers pH and also TA.
So, with the acid in the trichlor pucks, they need the TA to be run in the higher range to compensate for the acid that is driving it lower. For more comprehensive info refer to PH TA Relationship - Further Reading
A higher TA causes pH to rise faster then if the TA is lower. In fact, some members have commented by running TA at 50-60 that they have very little rise in pH.
You do not want to have your TA lower than 50 and you want to keep your pH in the 7's.
 
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plays10s said:
My CH is 225. Recommended is 250-650; ideal is 350-550. They said recommended range is 200-300, so don't add anything. PMC says to add 42 pounds of calcium chloride. They are saying ABSOLUTELY NOT; it will make my water cloudy.
Click to expand...
We have many members from AZ and other areas that have very high Calcium in their tap water. Therefore, they end up having high CH levels in the pool - above 600ppm. These members also have very clear water by following the TFP methods and tracking CSI. Do you have CSI activated on your PM app? You should monitor that to ensure your water is "balanced" as everyone has different conditions affecting their pool and the CSI calculations helps to determine that your pool is balanced. This is most important for those having gunite pools.
Please read - Calcium Hardness - Further Reading
 
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LaDonna,

Check this thread out. It's what we do. Every pic is somebody who was once in your shoes, and look at them now.

How Clear is TFP Clear?

The pool store 'pro's' are anything but. They are using government standards from the 80's to manage your pool. Imagine going to the Dr like it was 1986 ? Yeah. That's a no from me. We evolved based in science and field tested / tweaked by over a third of a million members for 15 years.
 
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