New owner with pool readings. Help me figure out what to tackle first.

Jump to latest Follow Reply
H

HillCountryAgua

Member
Jul 22, 2022
8
New Braunfels, TX
Pool Size
18000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
New home and pool owner here! Looking to take over maintenance duties from the previous owner’s maintenance guy, and I would love some advice on where to start, based on the readings below (calculated using the TF-Pro test kit). The pool is, according to my rough calculations, about 18,000 gallons. It is a plaster pool, built in 2016. Anyway, here are the levels:

pH 8.2 using little the little plastic comparator
Alkalinity 160
Free Chlorine drop test 5
Combined Chloramimes 0.0-0.5
Calcium hardness 350
CYA 90

Based on what I’ve read, should I start with lowering the pH by adding muriatic acid? Then, should I move to increase calcium since it is on the low end of normal? it seems that my CYA is also too high. What’s the best way to reduce it?

Thank you in advance! This website is so helpful!
 
Welcome to TFP. Sounds like you've already read up some, and have a great test kit.

Yes, you can lower your pH a bit by using Muriatic acid. Your next thing to tackle will be that CYA level. Doesn't look like you have a SWCG to chlorinate your pool per your signature, are you using liquid chlorine? I suspect pucks likely have been used in the past to get CYA that high.

You can try to manage with that CYA but will need more chlorine per the FC/CYA Levels. There is no magical way to reduce CYA other than replacing some water - which is not always a great option. It will SLOWLY degrade over time if water exchange truly can't be done.
 
With the heat we've been having you may see your CYA number going down. Slowly, but down. A partial
drain can help but be careful of the exposed plaster in the sun. If you can maintain your chlorine per
FC/CYA Levels until the fall that may be a better time of year for a water exchange. Glad you’re
here!
 
Welcome to TFP!!! :wave:

You can adjust your pH with Muriatic. Your CH is just fine, no need to do anything there.

You issue is your CYA. At 90, you need to never let your FC get below 7 anytime during the day.

Can you tell me how you are chlorinating?
 
Last edited:
PieterS said:
Welcome to TFP. Sounds like you've already read up some, and have a great test kit.

Yes, you can lower your pH a bit by using Muriatic acid. Your next thing to tackle will be that CYA level. Doesn't look like you have a SWCG to chlorinate your pool per your signature, are you using liquid chlorine? I suspect pucks likely have been used in the past to get CYA that high.

You can try to manage with that CYA but will need more chlorine per the FC/CYA Levels. There is no magical way to reduce CYA other than replacing some water - which is not always a great option. It will SLOWLY degrade over time if water exchange truly can't be done.
Click to expand...
Thanks so much for the info! I believe the previous maintenance guy only used tablets. At least, that’s all I saw him add in the few weeks I’ve lived here. I was surprised that it was so high until I learned that chlorine tablets often contain CYA.

Sorry for the basic question, but is there a good way to drain the pool partially? Should I rent a pump from the store?
 
PoolStored said:
Welcome to TFP!!! :wave:

You can adjust your pH with Muriatic. Your CH is just fine, no need to do anything there.

You issue is your CYA. At 90, you need to never let your FC get below 7 anytime during the day.

Can you tell me how you are chlorinating?
Click to expand...
I have only seen the previous pool guy use tablets, which I’ve learned often have CYA. I assume I should stop with those any only use liquid chlorine?
 
Yes, tablets contain CYA. If you want to add chlorine and nothing else the only way to do that really is liquid chlorine (and an SWG, but that's probably out of scope here). Start using liquid chlorine and Pool Math to know how much to add. Your CYA is pretty high at 90, so your chlorine PPM will also need to be pretty high. As mentioned here with a CYA of 90 you should never let your FC dip below 7PPM.
 
HillCountryAgua said:
Sorry for the basic question, but is there a good way to drain the pool partially? Should I rent a pump from the store?
Click to expand...
No problem on any questions - but I'm probably not that versed here. From what I know with plaster, you have to be mindful of exposing it to the sun/elements for too long - it'll damage the plaster. This link - if it works - Draining - has some in depth info on draining a pool. But yes, usually you would rent or buy a submersible pump and not use your pool equipment to do this. Most folks would suggest buying one, they're cheap and have many other uses.
 
Since you are bringing down the pH anyway, you might gain some stability out of it by targeting 7.2 when you do your MA additions. Over time this will bring down your TA helping to buffer your pH rise going forward.

My TA has settled around 60, and my pH stays very stable just over 7.5 with about 3 wks before it gets high enough to address. Occasionally I even need to increase my TA a little. My experience is a bit unusual since I have a SWG and dogs that are constantly aerating the pool. But in any case if you can dose your MA for a lower pH, you will be helping its long term stability by bringing down TA.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply