Phosphates

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mknauss said:
Great. Your TC (Total Chlorine) is over 5 ppm. The pH looks to be 8.2 or higher.

Do the FAS-DPD test for FC now. 10 ml of water, one heaping scoop of R0870. Put the stir bar in and set on the Smartstir. Hit the button and the bar will spin. Add R0871 one drop at a time (just invert the bottle to vertical and the drops should naturally form and fall). Count the drops to clear. Each drop is 0.5ppm FC.
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Ok I did that! The first test, FC took 23 drops to go from really pink to clear, so I multiplied 23x0.5= 11.5
Then I did the CC test (?) and it turned ever so slightly pink, so I drop 1 drop of R-0871 and it turned completely clear.
1drop x0.5=0.5. ?? Does any of that seem correct?
 
mknauss said:
Perfect!
Your FC is above 10 ppm. So the pH reading might be effected by that. It is best to wait until the FC is 10 ppm or less before testing for pH.
Do you want to do the TA now?
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mknauss said:
Perfect!
Your FC is above 10 ppm. So the pH reading might be effected by that. It is best to wait until the FC is 10 ppm or less before testing for pH.
Do you want to do the TA now?
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Our FC seems to have been high for a couple weeks now, after being basically zero so I think we're still trying to get it down a bit. Is it bad for it to be above 10?
Yes, I'll do the TA now......stand by lol
 
lavndrocean said:
Is it bad for it to be above 10?
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Not really. I assume you have some CYA in the pool water. Just do not add any chlorine for a day or two and it will come down.

When using the R0009 reagent for TA -- read the notes in the article I linked. The tip can let too small of droplets for the first couple times used.
 
mknauss said:
Not really. I assume you have some CYA in the pool water. Just do not add any chlorine for a day or two and it will come down.

When using the R0009 reagent for TA -- read the notes in the article I linked. The tip can let too small of droplets for the first couple times used.
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Okay, I wiped the tip between each drop I added....it took 8 drops to go from green to red, so TA=80. Right?
 
mknauss said:
Yes. That is great.

Last one to do tonight is Calcium Hardness. That one is pretty straight forward.
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So I just did the CYA and it's just under the 50 line. That's too low right? We've had an issue there in recent weeks too, not being able to keep CYA between the 60-80 mark ... Ok I'll move to the Calcium Hardness....
 
I would think it is too dark outside to do the CYA test right now. Better to do in bright sunshine.
In your climate a higher CYA would be best. But not catastrophic if it is lower for now.
 
mknauss said:
I would think it is too dark outside to do the CYA test right now. Better to do in bright sunshine.
In your climate a higher CYA would be best. But not catastrophic if it is lower for now.
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Oh right, I remember you mentioned do it in the sun so I'll redo that tomorrow. Ok, the CH is 400 :)
 

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Great. So you are fine. No big things to change right now.

You can turn off or lower the generation of FC by your SWCG for a day or two. I would target 6 ppm FC as a good place to be.

Once the FC is below 10 ppm, do the pH. You likely need to add some acid. Target 7.4 pH when you add acid.

Do the CYA tomorrow. Might need to add some CYA.
 
mknauss said:
Great. So you are fine. No big things to change right now.

You can turn off or lower the generation of FC by your SWCG for a day or two. I would target 6 ppm FC as a good place to be.

Once the FC is below 10 ppm, do the pH. You likely need to add some acid. Target 7.4 pH when you add acid.

Do the CYA tomorrow. Might need to add some CYA.
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THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! Okay so don't add any acid right now, only after the FC drops a bit, correct?
If we do need to add CYA, which we seem to be doing weekly, how do I know how much to add? The PoolMath app? Is there another place to find that information also?
 
mknauss said:
Great. So you are fine. No big things to change right now.

You can turn off or lower the generation of FC by your SWCG for a day or two. I would target 6 ppm FC as a good place to be.

Once the FC is below 10 ppm, do the pH. You likely need to add some acid. Target 7.4 pH when you add acid.

Do the CYA tomorrow. Might need to add some CYA.
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Oh, and salt. I'll test the tomorrow too....
 
lavndrocean said:
Okay so don't add any acid right now, only after the FC drops a bit, correct?
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I would prefer that the FC be below 10 ppm to check the pH. You likely need to add acid, but the FC should drop that little bit if you turn off the SWCG for tomorrow.
lavndrocean said:
how do I know how much to add? The PoolMath app?
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Yes. The CYA should not drop unless you are getting rain overflow.
Just post what you get from the app to add and someone will check it.
 
mknauss said:
I would prefer that the FC be below 10 ppm to check the pH. You likely need to add acid, but the FC should drop that little bit if you turn off the SWCG for tomorrow.

Yes. The CYA should not drop unless you are getting rain overflow.
Just post what you get from the app to add and someone will check it.
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Wonderful, thanks so much. (We actually had the SWCG off for 3 days and it's still a bit high for some reason. I'll turn it off another day or so, see where it's at and when I turn it back on maybe I'll lower it. It's currently at 70%
 
Great. You can use Poolmath - Effects of Adding Chemicals to see what your SWCG adds to the pool based on % generation and hours run. Target 4ppm FC right now.

That salt test result is great! Very close to the cell reported level. When the cell says it has low salt, test the water first before adding salt.
 
mknauss said:
Great. You can use Poolmath - Effects of Adding Chemicals to see what your SWCG adds to the pool based on % generation and hours run. Target 4ppm FC right now.

That salt test result is great! Very close to the cell reported level. When the cell says it has low salt, test the water first before adding salt.
Click to expand...
great, thanks again!
 

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