New Construction Started - Willis, TX (north of Houston)

Assume the distance (5x pipe i.d.) is based on an industry standard/best practices?
That's the most important one.

The flowmeter also requires a minimum distance as referenced.

Mostly, it's to make sure that you have laminar flow into the pump impeller or to the flowmeter.

In my opinion, the suction requirement is not critical.

If you use a 4" sweep as the final elbow, the distance requirement is even less important, but I would try to do it anyway to keep Pentair happy.
 
If you use a 4" sweep as the final elbow, the distance requirement is even less important, but I would try to do it anyway to keep Pentair happy.
I envision any 4" pipe will reduce to 3" at the pad in order to connect directly to the pump(s).
 
Correct, but I would put the reducer at the horizontal output of the the 4" 90 instead of reducing to 3" and using a 3" 90 to transition from vertical to horizontal.
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On the infinity edge pump I have a 3" inlet valve and it seems those are typically installed in the vertical position after the pipe exits the ground before running horizontally to the pad.
 
I would go with the 5 lb clear so that you can see it working.

I think that the 3.5 lb would probably work fine and it would also be an acceptable choice as long as you verify performance and you have the flow switch to protect the heater.

I would put unions on both ends of the check valve and have a replacement with the same unions just in case the original ever fails.


For all Jandy check valves, I would get one spare for each size so that you can have a replacement ready to go if one fails, which will probably happen.
See questions in red below:

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Regarding the Harwil Q-8 flow switch would a 44-65 GPM adjustment range be sufficient? I'm ready to order.
That should be fine.

The heater requires 40 GPM minimum, so setting it at about 44 to 48 will give you enough flow with a small margin.

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No check valve needed at the indicated location.

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The purpose of the spring check valve is to bypass excess flow around the heater while the flow is going to the heater.

The purpose of the bypass with an Intellivalve is to divert water around the heater when the heater is not being used.

When the IntelliCenter wants to turn on the heater, it first turns the Intellivalve to send water to the heater.

Then, it waits to get a good pressure/flow signal and then it starts the heater.

When the "Call for Heat" is over, the heater will turn off and wait for a few seconds and then turn the intellivalve to bypass the heater.
 
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The purpose of the spring check valve is to bypass excess flow around the heater while the flow is going to the heater.

The purpose of the bypass with an Intellivalve is to divert water around the heater when the heater is not being used.

When the IntelliCenter wants to turn on the heater, it first turns the Intellivalve to send water to the heater.

Then, it waits to get a good pressure/flow signal and then it starts the heater.

When the "Call for Heat" is over, the heater will turn off and wait for a few seconds and then turn the intellivalve to bypass the heater.
10-4, thanks for clarifying. These are answers I need to know if the PB inquires.

I've reached out to Harwill regarding ordering directly from them.
 
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Spring Check Valve response per Pentair:

After looking at the diagram a few things pop out
  1. The operation of the check valve is dependent on the flow which could be effected by dirty filter and pump speed
  2. The check valve operation could be affected by chemical breakdown
  3. What serviceability service will be performed on the valve during its lifespan
  4. When it fails how will it tell you
The heater already has a pressure switch in it so unless the spa/pool is more than 4” above or below or on a commercial installation a external flow switch isn’t needed

Unless larger than 2” pipe is used on the system the max flow through the system at 7FPS is rated at 72GPM using sch 40 PVC pipe. Max flow rate through the filter and heater is rated up to 120GPM.

So are you desiring a higher DeltaT?
 

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The operation of the check valve is dependent on the flow which could be effected by dirty filter and pump speed
That's how it is designed to work.

It only opens when the flow is over about 58 GPM with a 5 lb check valve.

GPM...........Pressure differential

30...................0.2167 psi

40...................2.0 psi

48...................3.5 psi

50...................3.7 psi

58...................5.0 psi

60...................5.2 psi

70...................6.3 psi

80...................6.8 psi.

The check valve operation could be affected by chemical breakdown
Everything eventually breaks down.
What serviceability service will be performed on the valve during its lifespan
I would put unions on both ends of the check valve and have a replacement with the same unions just in case the original ever fails.
For all Jandy check valves, I would get one spare for each size so that you can have a replacement ready to go if one fails, which will probably happen.

When it fails how will it tell you

It's clear and you can see it working.
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The heater already has a pressure switch in it so unless the spa/pool is more than 4” above or below or on a commercial installation a external flow switch isn’t needed
Completely wrong.

The pressure switch can be activated with no flow when the bypass is being used because pressure can be trapped in the heater.

Using a simple pressure switch on the heater inlet is foolish because it does absolutely nothing to ensure that there is any actual flow.

The only way that a pressure switch would be reliable would be if it was a differential pressure switch that measured the difference in pressure between the inlet and the outlet.

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Unless larger than 2” pipe is used on the system the max flow through the system at 7FPS is rated at 72GPM using sch 40 PVC pipe.
I don't understand what this is asking.

The plumbing to the heater is 2" and the bypass is 2", so the flow will begin diverting around the heater at about 58 to 60 gpm.

So, you will have 60 gpm going to the heater and 60 gpm going through the bypass at 120 gpm total.

Even if you didn't have a bypass, you can send 120 gpm through a 2" line and through the heater.

For suction, you want to keep the water velocity below 6 ft/sec. For returns, you want to keep the water velocity below 8 ft/sec.

Size.......6 ft/sec......8 ft/sec.
1.5"...........38...............51 gpm
2"..............63...............84 gpm
2.5............90.............119 gpm
3.0".........138............184 gpm
4.0"........238.............317 gpm

Without a bypass, you could use 2.5" plumbing to the heater which is 8 feet per second.

Inside the heater, there is a spring bypass and all of the water goes through the bypass when the heater is not heating.

A thermal regulator blocks the flow from exiting the heat exchanger until the water warms up.

The internal manifold bypass is about 2" in diameter.

Below, you can see the manifold bypass and the thermal regulator.

When the heater is on, part of the flow goes through the manifold bypass and part of the flow goes through the heat exchanger.

Putting 120 GPM through the manifold bypass is about 12.3 feet per second and it puts a lot of stress on the plunger and it can break off as shown in the below video.

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Below is a picture of an old and a new heat exchanger.

The old one developed a leak and had to be replaced.

The heat exchanger can develop a leak due to corrosion caused by chemical damage or by excessive flow causing mechanical erosion.

1656433161914.png
 
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The heat exchanger is a two pass model with 6 tubes.

The tubes are about 1" in diameter.

If you have 60 GPM going through (3) 1" tubes, that's 20 gpm per tube and that is about 8.8 feet per second, which is more than the 8 feet per second recommended by Pentair.

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Note: To avoid erosion of copper pipe, velocities should not exceed eight feet per second.

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The two-pass design is a bad design because it is less efficient than a single pass design.

People think that giving the water a second pass allows the water to pick up more heat, which it does for that water, but the hotter the water gets the less heat is transferred because there is a lower temperature differential between the water and the copper tubing.

The most efficient design is one where the water temperature rise is as low as possible, which is counterintuitive.

The lower the water temperature rise, the more heat is transferred from the hot copper heat exchanger to the water.

The water temperature exiting the heater is irrelevant.

All that matters is how much heat (BTUs) is transferred to the water.

For a 400,000 btu/hr at 84% efficiency, the amount of heat transferred to the water should be about 336,000 btu/hr.
 
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The operation of the check valve is dependent on the flow which could be effected by dirty filter and pump speed
The manual describes adding a manual bypass, but that is dependent on flow because it will only work correctly with a specific amount of flow.

The 5 lb. check valve bypass automatically adjusts to the flow because it is pressure activated.

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Below is the Jandy JXI, which is a similar design to the Mastertemp, which shows a double pass heat exchanger with flow going through 4 tubes one way and then two tubes going the other way.

If the Mastertemp is the same, then the flow going through the two bottom tubes is 30 gpm at 1" copper pipe, which is about 12.3 feet per second, which is 1.54 X more than the Pentair recommended limit of 8 feet per second, which means that at 60 gpm through the heat exchanger, the mechanical erosion is much higher than desirable.

However, if you limit the flow to the heater to 60 GPM using an external check valve bypass, the flow will be divided between the manifold bypass and the heat exchanger.

If you have 30 GPM going through the exchanger and 30 gpm going through the manifold bypass, then the flow going through each lower tube is 15 GPM, which is 6.13 feet per second.

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7.7 Temperature Rise

A temperature rise test confirms proper water flow through the heater.

The temperature rise is the difference between the temperature of the pool or spa water before and after heating, as measured in the header.


This is from the Jandy book.

A temperature rise of 30 degrees Fahrenheit implies a flow through the exchanger of about 22.38 gpm.

A temperature rise of 39 degrees Fahrenheit implies a flow through the exchanger of about 17.2 gpm.

400,000 btu/hr (0.84) ÷ 30 = 11,200 lbs water per hour= 1,343 gallons per hour = 22.38 gpm.

400,000 btu/hr (0.84) ÷ 39 = 8,615 lbs water per hour = 1,033 gallons per hour = 17.2 gpm.

So, at 40 GPM, 17.2 GPM to 22.38 GPM are going through the heat exchanger and 17.62 to 22.8 GPM are going through the bypass.

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Man, I'm winded! Good stuff. Sounds like we'll be good with the 5LB CV.

I hadn't thought about having spare CV's of each size - good suggestion.
I sent the valves, specials (flow meter, spring check valve, flow switch, etc) BOM to the PB yesterday. I advised that no unions, elbows, sweeps and other fittings was included. Having unions on each side of the flow switch for easy replacement makes sense. Are there any other items that would benefit from having unions? Filters for the sheers? Flow meter? Etc?
 
After thinking more about the flow meter, if needed, it can be replaced by simply removing it from the pipe (I believe it's clamped on) and inserting a new one. Would having unions on each side of the sheers' filters make sense?
 
Would having unions on each side of the sheers' filters make sense?
That can make sense if we assume that one will eventually fail.

Having an extra with the same unions makes replacement quick and easy.

I don't know how likely they are to fail.

I always like to have various spares for fast and easy replacements to avoid long downtimes.
 
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