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Manuel2022

Active member
Jun 1, 2022
26
MA
Pool Size
4400
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Intex Krystal Clear
Hello! New pool owner here, with limited knowledge. Been reading through PoolSchool and the Forums, as well as the occasional youtube video for set up. Purchased a 15x48 Bestway above ground to entertain the kids this summer and I just purchased an Intex 26441EG Sand Filter Pump and Intex 26667EG Saltwater System with ECO which are being delivered later this week. We are starting to slowly fill the pool (using well water) until the pump arrives. From the research I've done, I believe need to add salt, run the pump, and test water prior to hooking up/running the saltwater system. However, when do I test the water for the other components? I have a hard time believing that everything will read accurately first time filling the pool- some research says to balance pool prior to adding salt, others say to check after. Which do I do first? I feel like it would be silly to add chlorine if my SWG will be converting the salt into it. I've ordered the K2006 and K1766 to use for testing based on what I've read here. Also, after reading the Water Balance for SWGs, I'm understanding that while the SWG setting can be adjusted to change the FC, the CYA, TA, and PH have to be adjusted by additives - are there specific products because it is salt water? Any brands you recommend?
I'll be sure to report back the readings when we have things set up, as I know this is an important step to getting things in order and for more accurate responses from you guys! Thanks in advance for your assistance!
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave:

Manuel2022 said:
when do I test the water for the other components?
Click to expand...
Once the pool is full, let the pump circulate water for about an hour then take a full set of test results with your Taylor K-2006C test kit. Be sure to add the test kit you have along with all of your pool details into your signature. See mine as an example.

Manuel2022 said:
Which do I do first?
Click to expand...
New water has no stabilizer, so you can count on adding that right away. You'll need to adjust the pH anywhere between 7.2 - 7.8. Finally, you'll probably add some liquid chlorine initially until you get the SWG adjusted for consistent, optimal performance. Always go back to the FC/CYA Levels to know where your FC should be to avoid algae.

But for now, focus on adding the CYA, adjusting the pH, and maintaining a good FC level. Use the PoolMath APP to help.
 
Now let's talk about that well. Be sure to add well water to your signature too. If you didn't already know, wells often have iron which can be problematic. Once iron get in the water it doesn't just leave. It has to be filtered out (if possible) or use a sequestrant to keep the iron in solution for to prevent staining and/or color changes. If you have any questions about iron management let us know.
 
Thanks Texas Splash for your insight. I've updated my signature to include everything you've mentioned; however happy to add something extra if needed!

We ran the pump/filter for 3 hours and then tested. The SWG is not on yet. These were our results:
FC & CC - 0
Ph - no where near the colors on test. Bright yellow. I assume this means less than 7.0?
Acid PH - I added >20 drops per test kit but never changed colors
Base PH - added 24 drops to get to 7.4
TA - 60
Cal Hard 100

Here are some questions. I've been reading the Pool School and am trying my best - there is so much to soak in! The next few days are supposed to be cloudy here so I'd like to take advantage of this time to prep as much of the pool as possible! Also, the water has kind of been sitting now and I'm getting nervous about what might be growing in there...
1. I need to increase TA a little, PH, as well as get some chlorine in there. Using the Pool Math app it says add 1lb 5oz baking soda for TA. Grocery store bought baking soda? And I just sprinkle around the pool?
2. Based on off-the-chart Ph I am going to guess I'll need something else added? Or maybe I add the baking soda above and take new reading?
3. In the forums I've been reading that liquid bleach is good to start killing germs. Is this general bleach that I use for laundry (main ingredient sodium hypochlorite)? Rookie question - Is it because it's diluted enough in the water that its safe to swim in? App says add 2 cups 4 oz. However see note below.
4. My SWG instructions say that we should run the Boost mode (although various comments here that say we shouldn't). Because it's our first time using it, I think I'd prefer to follow the instructions (and maybe not use this mode often in future for cell life) - please advise if I'm being completely naive. That being said, do I need to limit the amount of bleach or other additives , since the SWG doesn't read levels? I am worried about balancing and then adding ALL the salt and it being converted and then having too much chlorine, etc.

Appreciative for your thoughts!
 
Manuel2022 said:
1. I need to increase TA a little, PH, as well as get some chlorine in there. Using the Pool Math app it says add 1lb 5oz baking soda for TA. Grocery store bought baking soda? And I just sprinkle around the pool?
Click to expand...
A little baking soda is fine. Maybe only about 10-20 ppm worth. Yes, same stuff form the grocery store, sprinkled in the deep end.

Manuel2022 said:
2. Based on off-the-chart Ph I am going to guess I'll need something else added? Or maybe I add the baking soda above and take new reading?
Click to expand...
Let's be sure about the pH. Are you using the 5 red drops of R-0014 on the right side of the OTO comparator block? Maybe do a pH test from your tap water as well to compare before we go too much further on this one.

Manuel2022 said:
3. In the forums I've been reading that liquid bleach is good to start killing germs. Is this general bleach that I use for laundry (main ingredient sodium hypochlorite)? Rookie question - Is it because it's diluted enough in the water that its safe to swim in? App says add 2 cups 4 oz. However see note below.
Click to expand...
Regular laundry bleach is the same as pool chlorine. Pool chlorine is typically stronger and a better value is all. If you use bleach, be sure it's regular, never splashless or scented. Chlorie/bleach is perfect becasue it works fast, is accurate, and has next to no side effects.

Manuel2022 said:
4. My SWG instructions say that we should run the Boost mode (although various comments here that say we shouldn't). Because it's our first time using it, I think I'd prefer to follow the instructions (and maybe not use this mode often in future for cell life) - please advise if I'm being completely naive. That being said, do I need to limit the amount of bleach or other additives , since the SWG doesn't read levels? I am worried about balancing and then adding ALL the salt and it being converted and then having too much chlorine, etc.
Click to expand...
If you really want to run the boost cycle for peace of mind, it won't hurt. You'll already have a FC level from the liquid chlorine/bleach, but it doesn't hurt anything. At any time in the future when your SWG is operating, you can add liquid chlorine to the water. Its all chlorine. I just add some liquid last night to my salt pool.
 
Remember that new water has no stabilizer (CYA) in it. If you haven't done so already, be sure to add a stabilizer for a minimum CYA of 30, maybe even 40. When you get ready to use the SWG and the salt has mixed for at least 24 hrs, then you can increase the CYA to 60 and see how it goes.
 
Texas Splash said:
A little baking soda is fine. Maybe only about 10-20 ppm worth. Yes, same stuff form the grocery store, sprinkled in the deep end.


Let's be sure about the pH. Are you using the 5 red drops of R-0014 on the right side of the OTO comparator block? Maybe do a pH test from your tap water as well to compare before we go too much further on this one.

Regular laundry bleach is the same as pool chlorine. Pool chlorine is typically stronger and a better value is all. If you use bleach, be sure it's regular, never splashless or scented. Chlorie/bleach is perfect becasue it works fast, is accurate, and has next to no side effects.
Click to expand...
-PH- correct. Elbow deep sample, 44ml mark and using 5 drops of R-0004. Did the tap water comparison and its about the same. Yellow and a bit more pale than the last reading (7.0) on the tube. Took about 4 drops of R-0006 to get it to pH of 7.6, however after fully mixing and getting a reading, the color reverts back to the yellowish color. I know we don't like or trust the test strips, but a few came with our system so I tried one just for giggles - it reads 6.2 from pool sample.
-Bleach is concentrated clorox. I attached a pic. Pretty sure it's just regular! Preference on adding this or baking soda first; or add together? And I would think I want the pump running correct?


Texas Splash said:
If you really want to run the boost cycle for peace of mind, it won't hurt. You'll already have a FC level from the liquid chlorine/bleach, but it doesn't hurt anything. At any time in the future when your SWG is operating, you can add liquid chlorine to the water. Its all chlorine. I just add some liquid last night to my salt pool.
Click to expand...
 

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Texas Splash said:
Remember that new water has no stabilizer (CYA) in it. If you haven't done so already, be sure to add a stabilizer for a minimum CYA of 30, maybe even 40. When you get ready to use the SWG and the salt has mixed for at least 24 hrs, then you can increase the CYA to 60 and see how it goes.
Click to expand...
I have not added any CYA yet. That is the dry stuff you put in a sock/nylon in the skimmer, right. We added this skimmer to our pool...ok to put in there? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012MFMNFA?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Our local store sells a Aquamate stabilizer and conditioner. Does this sound like the right stuff? I'll go grab some ASAP if so! :)
 
Manuel2022 said:
That is the dry stuff you put in a sock/nylon in the skimmer, right.
Click to expand...
Correct. That skimmer basket is kind of small but will work. Or you can hang the sock(s) from the side of the pool, just don't let the sock (stabilizer) rest directly against the vinyl.

For the pH, you might increase in small doses using borax or washing soda to help get it up over the hump of 7.2. Definitely over 7.0 as soon as you can.

Avoid the Clorox brand bleach. Generic is fine. Clorox added polymers to their formula a few years back that can disturb pool water chemistry.
 
Below is from the TFP Recommended Levels page:

PH can be raised in three ways: borax, soda ash, and aeration. Borax is usually the best choice. Borax raises the PH and also raises the TA level just a little. If your TA level is low soda ash will raise both the PH and TA levels. If your TA level is high, aeration is best as it will not raise the TA level at all. However, aeration is rather slow compared to the other two.

Borax is available as 20 Mule Team® Borax Natural Laundry Booster. It is sold in the laundry detergent section of most larger grocery stores and some big box stores. Borax is best added by pre-dissolving it in a bucket of water and then pouring that slowly in front of a return.

Soda ash is available as ARM & HAMMER® Super Washing Soda Detergent Booster. Do not confuse this with ARM & HAMMER® laundry detergent! It is sold in the laundry detergent section of most larger grocery stores and some big box stores. It is also sold by pool stores under various names, including PH Increaser, PH Up, Balance Pak 200, etc. Soda ash is best added by pre-dissolving it in a bucket of water and then pouring that slowly in front of a return.

Aeration can be provided by a SWG, spa jets, waterfall, fountain, return pointed up so it breaks the surface, air compressor, kids splashing, rain, etc. It can take some time for aeration to raise the PH. The higher your TA level, the faster aeration will work.
 

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Alright - added 10oz baking soda and 20oz bleach. Re-ran test results about 2 hours later:

FC - 1.5
pH - still yellowish but closer resemblance of 7.0. Did ph base test and it required 2-3 drops, but still reverted back to yellow after sitting for a few
TA -70
Calc - 90 to 100

I just added 8oz (1 cup) of pH increaser powder and turned the pump on for another 3 hours. Since the reading is still hard to gauge on most recent test, I'm using 6.9 as base point. App says 16oz total. Figured I'd do half now, get a new reading and then add remaining based on new reading.

Next need to add stabilizer. I plan to do this in the morning so I can squeeze sock throughout the day (and give pump break before 24 hour leave on per PoolSchool). If my pH reading becomes more accurate by then, would it be better idea to add stabilizer and salt at same time so system runs 24 hours only once? Or is that jumping the gun?
 
Manuel2022 said:
Figured I'd do half now, get a new reading and then add remaining based on new reading.
Click to expand...
Good plan. You should be able to re-test pH in less than an hour. You can add stabilizer and salt at any time. But you do need the FC increased right away. It's much too low (algae). I'd get it up to about 5-6 ppm.
 
Texas Splash said:
Good plan. You should be able to re-test pH in less than an hour. You can add stabilizer and salt at any time. But you do need the FC increased right away. It's much too low (algae). I'd get it up to about 5-6 ppm.
Click to expand...
Okay! I thought ideal FC was between .5-3ppm. Are we aiming for higher since the pool was just filled and because there is no CYA? I'll add 3 more cups of generic liquid bleach now (per app).

Will report back on pH and FC .
 
Manuel2022 said:
Okay! I thought ideal FC was between .5-3ppm. Are we aiming for higher since the pool was just filled and because there is no CYA? I'll add 3 more cups of generic liquid bleach now (per app).

Will report back on pH and FC .
Click to expand...
Reporting back - test results from just now. I have not added anything else after my post last night, however going to get some more bleach in there.

FC - 2
CC- .2
PH - 7.6
TA - 90
 
Texas Splash said:
Definitely increase the FC right away with liquid chlorine or regular bleach. Have you started using the SWG yet?
Click to expand...
Going to turn it on today - had to run just the pump for 24 hours to dissolve the CYA and the salt. I just added another round of bleach (AGAIN!) after I got the below test results this am. Hopefully now that there's some CYA in there the FC wont keep going down as quickly! Our salt is lower than the optimum 3000ppm but within the ideal level per our user manual (2500-3500) - can I add it and still turn on the SWG since the pump is running at the same time, or do I need to run the just the pump separately first?

FC - 0
PH - 7.2
TA - 80-90
CYA - 60
Salt - 2600 ppm

PH is going down again, but TA is on higher range. Do I need to adjust anything now or wait until reading after SWG boost is complete? Same with CYA?
 
Manuel2022 said:
Hello! New pool owner here, with limited knowledge. Been reading through PoolSchool and the Forums, as well as the occasional youtube video for set up. Purchased a 15x48 Bestway above ground to entertain the kids this summer and I just purchased an Intex 26441EG Sand Filter Pump and Intex 26667EG Saltwater System with ECO which are being delivered later this week. We are starting to slowly fill the pool (using well water) until the pump arrives. From the research I've done, I believe need to add salt, run the pump, and test water prior to hooking up/running the saltwater system. However, when do I test the water for the other components? I have a hard time believing that everything will read accurately first time filling the pool- some research says to balance pool prior to adding salt, others say to check after. Which do I do first? I feel like it would be silly to add chlorine if my SWG will be converting the salt into it. I've ordered the K2006 and K1766 to use for testing based on what I've read here. Also, after reading the Water Balance for SWGs, I'm understanding that while the SWG setting can be adjusted to change the FC, the CYA, TA, and PH have to be adjusted by additives - are there specific products because it is salt water? Any brands you recommend?
I'll be sure to report back the readings when we have things set up, as I know this is an important step to getting things in order and for more accurate responses from you guys! Thanks in advance for your assistance!
Click to expand...
Deleted.
 
Don't worry about the TA. You can turn on the SWG at anytime. If you add more salt later, that's fine. But each time teh FC falls below 2 you run the risk of algae, especially in the summer heat. Be very careful about that. Have some liquid chlorine on-hand as a back up and increase right away when you see it that low. If the water turns cloudy, it's a sign algae has started.
 
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Texas Splash said:
Don't worry about the TA. You can turn on the SWG at anytime. If you add more salt later, that's fine. But each time teh FC falls below 2 you run the risk of algae, especially in the summer heat. Be very careful about that. Have some liquid chlorine on-hand as a back up and increase right away when you see it that low. If the water turns cloudy, it's a sign algae has started.
Click to expand...
Great - about to turn it on now. Hopefully the liquid bleach I added this am helps. Having a hard time keeping at 2 or even getting above it. Pool has remained crystal clear .
 

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