SWG ratings

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trivetman said:
Is anybody from Circupool active in this forum?
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There used to be, but I'm not sure anymore. :scratch: @circupool?

When doing your OCGT, I agree you might expect to see a little more gain. I was thinking about this a couple days ago and also tried to be flexible in my gain projections by realizing that it is reasonable to lose 1 pm of FC on a normal OCLT. I know you said on a couple occasions you lost zero FC, but if you did lose 1 ppm, then your SWG might have actually produced one more FC than you thought. It was just lost to normal organic work overnight. Just a thought.
 
Texas Splash said:
reasonable to lose 1 pm of FC on a normal OCLT.
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Agreed with those thoughts. And I have lost up to 1ppm overnight in the past when the waters been fine. If I was getting output of maybe between 60-80% of what I was expecting I would probably chalk it up to testing error and maybe some chlorine loss overnight. The output I am seeing is just so low compared to the specs its hard to believe its working right.

I paid for the Ferrari and its got the top speed of a moped
 
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Check the manual on Page 11. Check Cell Voltage and Cell Current and make sure the readings are in range. It may confirm your findings and provide additional evidence the cell is not performing properly. Confirm the voltage jumpers are configured correctly for the SWG's input voltage (120 vs. 240 volts).

  • Cell Voltage (often 21.0 to 27.0 volts when chlorine is being generated, otherwise 16-31
  • Cell Current (often 2.50 to 7.80 amps when chlorine is being generated, otherwise 0 amps during normal rest cycles – see “Duty Cycle” below for more information.)
 
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Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
Check Cell Voltage and Cell Current and make sure the readings are in range.
[*]Cell Voltage (often 21.0 to 27.0 volts when chlorine is being generated, otherwise 16-31
[*]Cell Current (often 2.50 to 7.80 amps when chlorine is being generated, otherwise 0 amps during normal rest
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Hah! I was literally outside doing just that when this post hit! Voltage and current readings are right in the midpoints of the ranges. I was hoping I did something stupid like install the 110V when Its hooked up to 220V but that doesn’t seem to be the case.
 
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Has anybody ever done this sort of test to check that the cell actually is bubbling? I am doubtful it would tell me much especially as I know my cell is working to some degree. How would I know that the bubbles aren’t as much as they should be?

How to Test Your Salt Cell – Pool Stop

poolstoponline.com poolstoponline.com
 
trivetman said:
Has anybody ever done this sort of test to check that the cell actually is bubbling? I am doubtful it would tell me much especially as I know my cell is working to some degree. How would I know that the bubbles aren’t as much as they should be?

How to Test Your Salt Cell – Pool Stop

poolstoponline.com poolstoponline.com
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This seems like trouble waiting to happen….
If u have to put in a dummy pipe anyway- just send the thing back to be tested for real. Anything u do like this may confirm the problem to u but the manufacturer must be satisfied to give u a warranty replacement.
 
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Mdragger88 said:
If u have to put in a dummy pipe anyway- just send the thing back to be tested for real. Anything u do like this may confirm the problem to u but the manufacturer must be satisfied to give u a warranty replacement.
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I agree. Call them up and ask for a loaner cell (or a bypass pipe/winterizing kit). I know they've provided loaners in the past.
 
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Yeah I am going to have to follow up with Circupool on this. I am just trying to get as much diagnosis done on my own before going down the wrong path with them

😩
 
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laprjns said:
Do you have the correct cell version programmed in the controllerView attachment 421571
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Good question…and that’s something I was already going to ask Circupool. Heres the cell version display. I think it says t-15. I would have thought it would say something 55?

Anybody know what cell version it should say? Isn’t t-15 a Hayward cell model?
 

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trivetman said:
Isn’t t-15 a Hayward cell model?
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It is...

See any similarities in the control panels? They all use Hayward style cells. Discount Sal Pool claims, "Replaces Any Size AquaRite, with up to 2x more power than the competition!" I'm not sure how they do it.

Discount Salt Pool also sells the AquaRite system with a t-15 cell, but they list chlorine production at 1.45 lbs. per/day (as opposed to 2.9).

I don't know what cell type should be selected.

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trivetman said:
Heres the cell version display. I think it says t-15. I would have thought it would say something 55?
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T-15 is probably correct. I have a Crystal Pure 60K Swg which is basically the same system as yours, just a different sticker on the panel and the cell version is t-15.
1654818208547.png
 
laprjns said:
T-15 is probably correct. I have a Crystal Pure 60K Swg which is basically the same system as yours, just a different sticker on the panel and the cell version is t-15.
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That's probably right. The Pureline has a claimed 3.18 lbs. per day. Good value!
 
The Universal 55 is rated at 2.9 lbs per day, but that is highly unlikely.

The actual output is probably 1.45 lbs per day, which is half the rated output.

How many plates does the cell have?

What are the dimensions of the plates?

What are the volts and amps?

1657564209574.png
 
@JamesW

I’ll have the cell off in a couple of days before sending back to circupool for testing and can take a pic of the interior.

This thread is directly related to a couple others on the same matter which are floating around.

Circupool RJ-45 Production Test

Pace Research Ltd. registered the Trademark "Circupool", which makes them the "manufacturer" of the Circupool line of products until they transferred the trademark to Pace Car Corp. which makes them the manufacturer. It's a lot of legal machinations to confuse actual liability. The trademark...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

SWG Chlorine Generation too low

My new RJ-45+ isn't generating what it should. I just ran an Overnight Chlorine Gain Test and got less than half what I was expecting. This followed a mini-ONCL of about 4 hours where no chlorine was lost at all. Background: This is my first season with a new RJ-45+ SWG. It's been running fine...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
I think your most valid test was voltage and current when it’s running. If the current is within spec but chlorine production is low, that would point me to electrolysis of water instead of chlorine production and catalyst is toast.

If you are still hesitant to send it back before investigating further, can you log the cell current over the overnight interval?
 

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