Is there a PoolMath manual or user's guide?

Dec 21, 2017
10
Tucson, Arizona
I'm just a home pool owner, not a pool professional. I want to become self-sufficient by doing my own testing, rather than taking water samples to the pool store. On the advice of forum experts, I installed the PoolMath Android app on a Chromebook. I signed in with my TFP username and password and set up my pool in the app Settings.

Then I went outside and performed all the tests that I had configured: FC, TA, CYA, pH, CH, CSI, Salt, and Temp.

I opened the app and tried entering my results. For example, when I enter a test result like pH and then return to the home screen, the value I entered is not shown on the home screen. And if I go back into the pH block, the value I entered has been reset to zero. No matter what I enter, the home screen remains unchanged:
poolmath home screen.jpg

What am I doing wrong? Is there a user guide?
 
I think clicking on one of the “measures” on that Home Screen just allows you to put values in and it will tell you how much chemical to add to get from the current value to target value.
Every time you test, add chemicals, or brush, vacuum etc you can “log” using the big plus button.
When you then click on the logs button you can see all of the things you have ever logged (and also change them if you’ve added them wrongly, I’ve logged a chemical addition of 1000g of Dichlor before when I meant 1000ml of bleach)
 
No probs…. Errr … Just noting my screenshot again, it is also possible to be lazy and not log your maintenance, honestly my vacuuming and brushing isn’t really 272 days overdue :)

I also tested much more recently than 8d ago for chlorine. I’m just lazy logging these as the pool is still in early season slow startup mode until temps here in London Uk get warmer!!

(I put fresh water in and am using dichlor whilst it’s too cold to swim to bring the cya up before I switch to liquid chlorine)
 
OK, now that I have logged today's readings, the home screen shows them:

poolmath-2.jpg

Now I want to know the solution to these problems. Since TA is out of range, I click on the TA block to see what I need to do
1653091538003.png

So I'm supposed to add acid until I get the pH down to 7.0-7.2.

But if I click on the pH block
1653092442138.png

It tells me to add ash. The pH and the TA recommendations conflict, don't then? Do add acid or do I add ash?

Also, if I want to change one of the test results, how do I do it? Clicking the + button again and then clicking Log Test Results just tries to upsell me a premium subscription.

Also, I'm not a math major, but
7.4 (pH) is in the range [7.2,8.0]
60 (CYA) is in the range [60,90]
250 (CH) is in the range [250,650]

so why are they being flagged?
 

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Do not become a slave to the robot.

Take the flags as reminders, not commands.

There are no prizes for being ideal.

Consider if PoolMath reminders make sense for your pool.

Any pH in the 7s is equally good.
 
Your numbers are fine!

Generally, you can ignore TA. Just keep pH in the 7s. pH will naturally rise. When it gets to 8, lower to about 7.4 with Muriatic Acid. When you do it will lower TA. pH will rise again. Over time, through this cycle, TA will naturally correct.

Looks like, to me, you are in great shape!!!!
 
Your numbers are fine!

Generally, you can ignore TA. Just keep pH in the 7s. pH will naturally rise. When it gets to 8, lower to about 7.4 with Muriatic Acid. When you do it will lower TA. pH will rise again. Over time, through this cycle, TA will naturally correct.

Looks like, to me, you are in great shape!!!!
Thank you, that's useful advice. I will add acid in small amounts and lower the pH from the current 7.4. I was reluctant to lower pH because I thought the target pH was 7.4. But now that I know any pH in the 7's is good, I will begin adding acid and continuing to do so as pH climbs back up. While I will be "ignoring" TA, the acid will have the effect of lowering TA, which is currently out-of-range.
 

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I guess I meant, let your ph rise from there, when gets to 8, lower to 7.4 and repeat…
So starting at 7.4 (where it is now), let it rise to 8 and then bring it back down to 7.4. I know you said to ignore TA, but TA (which starts out at 150) only gets worse as pH rises from 7.4 to 8. Since any pH in the 7's is good, why not lower it to 7.0, let it rise from there, and when it gets to 7.4, repeat?
 
TA isn't going to rise as pH rises. It may rise when adding water due to evaporation if your fill water TA is higher than your pool water TA.
 
You can do what you are suggesting. CO2 outgassing is what causes pH rise. TA and pH are the biggest pressures on CO2 outgassing. Higher TA and Lower pH will both force higher rates of outgassing. CO2 outgasses at the fastest rate between 7.0 and 7.2.

As @proavia indicated, TA will not rise with the natural pH rise. The way to lower TA without getting into YO-YO cycles (trying to lower TA with chemicals, is that it drives pH down, then you add something to raise pH, which raises TA) is to manage pH (let it rise naturally), then reduce it with Muratic acid. MA will reduce pH and TA. Natural pH rise will not raise TA.

We recommend that you manage pH and don't worry about TA, it will come down over time. Keep pH in the 7s. With a higher TA, your pH will naturally rise. When pH gets to 8, reduce it to whatever you want. 7.4 is safe for most people...keeps them away from getting into the 6s and causing other issues. If you know your pool, certainly you can lower to 7.0 and cycle to 7.4 and back again. Depending on how you are chlorinating...TA and pH will find its equilibrium (manageable MA additions). With LC, generally 60-80 TA and pH somewhere between 7.6-7.8 (maybe 8) it will settle down and the pH rise with be easily managed. With SWCG, you may find that you need to go as low as 50 TA and let pH settle at 7.8-8.0, sometimes even 8.2.

My point is, manage your pH. Your TA will come down over time. If you find that your MA additions are really difficult to manage, follow the instructions below for "lower Total Alkalinity".

Two good articles:

 
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