Spa pump tripping breaker

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M

mchandler

Member
Feb 21, 2022
17
Los Angeles
Hello, my spa pump appears to be fairly old. It's a 2HP model and it ONLY serves as a booster pump to the spa that's integrated into my pool-- my VS pool pump handles day to day spa circulation. I've lived in my house for 3 years, so I don't have the spa pump's history. But it trips the breaker as soon as I turn it on. After reading several similar posts here on TFP, I'm assuming that after I confirm it's not a breaker, I am likely looking at a motor issue, capacitor, etc. (Truth is, I think I've used the spa 3 times in 3 years. But we use the pool frequently.)

My goal is to find the path of least resistance in dealing with the issue. To me, that means the least amount of time spent in labor combined with being cost effective. I'm comfortable with performing the work myself and have test equipment and electrical experience.

Given my goals and after I confirm the breakers, should I consider:

1) replacing only the motor part?
2) replace the entire pump?
3) can you recommend a motor or pump that fits the bill? Basically, what I have now is an old single speed pump that "could" operate a pool or spa.
4) what is this little controller thingy in my spa at the water's edge? Could this potentially be an issue in lieu of the pump?
5) finally, IF I end up replacing the pump, should I go w/single or 2 speed? Recently, I've noticed since I rarely ever us my spa, the pump doesn't get turned on and I've gotten a ton of algae buildup in the pump basket and likely the lines leading to the spa. So I'm assuming I should put the spa pump on a daily timer to, at minimum, keep algae at bay.

Much appreciated!
Mike
 

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What kind of pump is it? Does it have unions? If so replacing with a pump of same dimensions makes this a very easy job. Inyopools.com or other retailers (or folks on here) can help you find one w same dimensions. Otherwise most any pump will work with some plumbing required. I would go single speed if available - your usage pattern would seem to not justify any energy savings from a more efficient pump.

I have a somewhat similar setup, my 2nd pump goes to the spa to power the spillover waterfall. I replaced it (old Hayward Super) w a waterway SMF last year.

The 4 button switch looks like a Jandy spa side remote - assuming you have jandy automation? The buttons can be programmed to whatever function you want (typically turning on the spa, heat, lights, blower, etc). I’m assuming it doesn’t work?
 
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DLip said:
What kind of pump is it? Does it have unions? If so replacing with a pump of same dimensions makes this a very easy job. Inyopools.com or other retailers (or folks on here) can help you find one w same dimensions. Otherwise most any pump will work with some plumbing required. I would go single speed if available - your usage pattern would seem to not justify any energy savings from a more efficient pump.

I have a somewhat similar setup, my 2nd pump goes to the spa to power the spillover waterfall. I replaced it (old Hayward Super) w a waterway SMF last year.

The 4 button switch looks like a Jandy spa side remote - assuming you have jandy automation? The buttons can be programmed to whatever function you want (typically turning on the spa, heat, lights, blower, etc). I’m assuming it doesn’t work?
Click to expand...
Appreciate the response. The brand is AO Smith and it doesn't have unions but it seems to be pretty straight ahead to cut out the plumbing. I'll check out the Waterway brand. Currently, the pump is connected to an AuqaLinkRS remote and is setup as a "booster pump." It's the only remote for this pump and so when I turn it on, the breaker trips. I do have a Jandy VS pool pump and Jandy remote that is also tied into the AuqaLinkRS.

And, I have all the dimensions of this existing pump. But since the pump only operates literally half of my spa (the other half is operated by the jandy pool pump) it seems like the existing 2HP may be overkill for such a small spa. In fact most of the manufactures seem to skip the 2HP range now and have 1.0, 1.5HP, then it shoots up to 3HP. So I'm sort of assuming I don't need to put in a 2HP pump or larger, and just go with a 1.5hp. I gotta figure that part out.
 
power really relates to flow needs, which to my understanding for a spa is related to number of jets and nozzle orifice size. A.O. Smith was a motor manufacturer that made the motors for most major brands of pool pumps. They are now just Century. That Century Centurion was a very popular model and it shou be easy to find a motor and seal kit. Best bet for a motor is, you guessed it, Century. You can look on their website for one with similar specs and the most important is the mounting flange. There are a couple of mounting flanges that dominate the industry. Mostly comes down to circular vs square…but do match the flange. Then you need a “go kit” for the pump. That includes the shaft seal and all necessary gaskets. Motor replacement is pretty easy.

prob. Not a capacitor in this case…maybe, but usually on a cap you get a hum and the motor won’t start, followed by a click that is a thermal protect resettable fuse internal to the motor. Tripping the break in my experience usually is due to a burnt out motor—a short in the windings.

I would start with checking the sizing you really need, as well as price and availability of parts to fix your old pump vs cost of new.
 
By the way, the frame type is listed right on the label: Y56Y. Ignore the 1st Y, it denotes length. 56Y is a square frame with threaded shaft meant for motor cases of approximately 6 3/4” diameter. Anything with a 56Y frame will mount to the wet end of the pump. Just don’t try to change HP of the motor from current if repairing the pump unless you really know what you’re doing. The impeller was sized for that power.
 
jedigrover said:
By the way, the frame type is listed right on the label: Y56Y. Ignore the 1st Y, it denotes length. 56Y is a square frame with threaded shaft meant for motor cases of approximately 6 3/4” diameter. Anything with a 56Y frame will mount to the wet end of the pump. Just don’t try to change HP of the motor from current if repairing the pump unless you really know what you’re doing. The impeller was sized for that power.
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Great stuff! Thanks for the response. I'll look it all up on the Century site and compare the cost of the motor with a whole new pump. Really appreciate all the responses from everyone here.
 
@DLip and @jedigrover have given you some good advice. I would add that pump and plumbing are a system, and were sized to work with each other. I always recommend using the same hp pump as original. On a jet pump (technically it is not a "booster") you don't have filter, heater, vac, chlorinator, and such flow rates and pressures to worry about, so it's not as big a deal, but I would definitely NOT go higher hp, and lower hp will just mean weaker jets.
When rebuilding older pumps, it is common to damage the impeller during removal, and if you don't have one on hand your project gets stalled, so you might want to get an impeller. If it has a wear ring or seal cup, you'll want those too. So, at this point, you have bought everything BUT the pump housing and faceplate, and still have a job to do. For customers, I usually just recommend a new pump assembly if you have to buy a motor. It has a warranty, and by the time you buy all the pieces you haven't saved very much money anyway, none if you have to pay someone to do the work. Better to just buy a new one. You understand, of course, that by advising this to my customers I am cutting myself out of an hour of labor worth $100 to me. The guys that say "rebuild it" are wanting to put that $ in their pocket instead of in your spa. So if saving a few $ is worth doing the job to you, then go for it, but I'd recommend new. So much easier, less chance of problems, fewer parts to order correctly, and warrantied as a whole.
Even if the faceplate is plumbed in, I will buy the assembly and use the original faceplate if the plumbing is too tight to replumb it in, assuming exact replacements are still available of course.
 
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RDspaguy said:
@DLip and @jedigrover have given you some good advice. I would add that pump and plumbing are a system, and were sized to work with each other. I always recommend using the same hp pump as original. On a jet pump (technically it is not a "booster") you don't have filter, heater, vac, chlorinator, and such flow rates and pressures to worry about, so it's not as big a deal, but I would definitely NOT go higher hp, and lower hp will just mean weaker jets.
When rebuilding older pumps, it is common to damage the impeller during removal, and if you don't have one on hand your project gets stalled, so you might want to get an impeller. If it has a wear ring or seal cup, you'll want those too. So, at this point, you have bought everything BUT the pump housing and faceplate, and still have a job to do. For customers, I usually just recommend a new pump assembly if you have to buy a motor. It has a warranty, and by the time you buy all the pieces you haven't saved very much money anyway, none if you have to pay someone to do the work. Better to just buy a new one. You understand, of course, that by advising this to my customers I am cutting myself out of an hour of labor worth $100 to me. The guys that say "rebuild it" are wanting to put that $ in their pocket instead of in your spa. So if saving a few $ is worth doing the job to you, then go for it, but I'd recommend new. So much easier, less chance of problems, fewer parts to order correctly, and warrantied as a whole.
Even if the faceplate is plumbed in, I will buy the assembly and use the original faceplate if the plumbing is too tight to replumb it in, assuming exact replacements are still available of course.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply. All super helpful stuff. I went ahead and found a new Century replacement motor for it. After weighing all the options, it was $350 wit the seal kit. So I'm gonna give it a go.
 
While I'm waiting for my replacement motor to arrive, I went out and began removing my old motor. As I loosened all the bolts, water just kept pouring out. I waited 15 minutes and saw no sign of it slowing so I just tightened back up the bolts. Guess I thought the motor was a sealed shaft and that I could just remove it and put the new one on next week. So am I supposed to drain my spa first, before replacing the motor? Spa water level didn't seem to go down much. I'm wondering now if I was draining my pool water instead, somehow. Little confused. Any help appreciated. Here's a pic of my setup- the white pump is the motor I'm replacing. I don't see a check valve specifically for that pump.
 

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Is your equipment below water level in the pool or spa?
Does your spa have a waterfall overflow into the pool?
It's hard to see what's going on in that plumbing, can you post some pics from different angles?
That pump pulls apart, with the pump face remaining in the pipes and the whole backplate, impeller, and diffuser pulls out with the motor. You'll need to close some valves to do it if the water level is above the equipment.
@jimmythegreek , @Pool Clown , anything to add?
 
Water level of my pool is below pump level, but spa is about 2' above the pump level and about 40' away. And I just recalled that when I clean the filter basket, water continues to run out and over the sides of the pimp until I put the basket back in and the lid back on. So I'm guessing there's no check valve specifically for that pump. And yes, I have a waterfall that flows over my spa and into the pool. In the picture, I pointed to one of the bolts I was loosening. There are 6 bolts and I'd purchased something called a Go-Kit which comes with the new motor. It has all the seals including the faceplate seal. So, maybe I just drain my spa first when I go to replace the pump?
 

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Yeah, some valves there would help. At least a check valve, but when I plumbed my system I put a stop valve on every line that goes into the ground. It allows me to isolate off anything if I have trouble. Unfortunately, I used the typical HD/Lowe's ball valves...if I ever do it again, I'll spring for Jandy valves as they are more reliable and you can service them.

You are going to have to drain the spa back to at least the level of the pool to do this. It's a bit more of a challenge in-place like this, but can be done.
I have unions and valves, so I can unwire my pump and pull it out and put it on a workbench to do it. If you ever re-plumb, give that a consideration.

BTW, so I don't forget to mention it--when you go back together with the pump, put some anti-seize on those bolts. Spray white lithium grease will do (if you don't see that at Lowe's, you can use the spray garage door lube--most of that is white lithium grease). That will help if you ever have to do this again. I've ruined a seal plate by not doing that and then trying to get the bolt to back out after a few years in a corrosive environment.

Is the actual pump a Pentair Whisperflo? It looks like it. That's what I've rebuilt. Note that you will need to get some silicone sealant to seat the new seal-plate side of the pump seal in. You can use a 1" pvc coupler as a seating tool.
There is an excellent video of servicing this pump here, that includes the torque specs for the bolts:

Remember that the retainer screw for the impeller has left-hand threads, but the impeller itself has right-hand threads.
 
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RDspaguy said:
Not sealant, lubricant. Silicone lubricant.
Click to expand...
I'm talking about the motor side of the shaft seal. Check the video I linked at 6:00. They specify to put silicone adhesive (sealant) -- a very tiny amount--on the plate side before seating it in. I've done that when rebuilding this pump & never had issues. You certainly don't want sealant/adhesive anywhere else, but for this one part of the process.

Everything else, like all the o-rings and gaskets, silicone lubricant is the way to go.
 
jedigrover said:
I'm talking about the motor side of the shaft seal. Check the video I linked at 6:00. They specify to put silicone adhesive (sealant) -- a very tiny amount--on the plate side before seating it in. I've done that when rebuilding this pump & never had issues. You certainly don't want sealant/adhesive anywhere else, but for this one part of the process.

Everything else, like all the o-rings and gaskets, silicone lubricant is the way to go.
Click to expand...
Great video! Man, that's super helpful and likely saved me hours trying to figure it all out. And my pump is a Pentair Challenger 2, but it looks identical to the one in the video. I'm gonna look at putting check valves, or ball valves in if I ever need to pull the pump completely out. Cause when I clean the filter basket, my spa drains until I put the lid back on. Appreciate the response!
 
jedigrover said:
specify to put silicone adhesive (
Click to expand...
I've been using lube for 26 years, hasn't failed me yet. I personally won't use caulk on a pump, I don't have time to wait for it to cure. They use caulk from the factory, but it has plenty of time to cure. You have to be sure you get it all out of the housing before installing the new one.
Not going to watch a video of something I've done at least a thousand times, so didn't know this guy says to use caulk. I'd happily argue it with him directly. Silicone lubricant is the way to go.
 
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