Build a DIY Plunge Pool

scrubbd

Member
Mar 21, 2022
17
California
I'm working on building a roughly 700 gallon plunge pool, and would love any advice/feedback on a few key questions, now that I've completed digging and am ready to start building.

The plan is for a dodecagonal (12-sided) pool build from cinderblock. Inner diameter will be 5 feet, with a 5'10" depth, and a spiral/nautilus shape step on one side.

The pool is dug into a hillside, with a composition of mostly hard sandstone, granite rocks, shale and dirt. (It was extremely hard to dig.) One side of the pool will be ground level with the hill, the other side will be roughly 2-feet above grade, and 3-feet below.

I've gone over plans with an engineer, and arrived at the following plan:

1. Current plan is to pour a 6-inch floor, with a 1.5-inch deep 3.5-inch wide channel around the perimeter centered underneath where the blocks will be set. When the blocks are filled with concrete, that will create a lateral "lock" underneath the walls connecting them with the floor. A waterproofing membrane will be set into the channel before laying the block and pouring.

2. 3/8 rebar will be laid for the floor, with 90-degree bends to continue into the walls--ie: floor and wall rebar will be one continuous piece down one wall, across the floor, and up the opposite wall. Rebar will also be added vertically at each corner of the dodecagon. Rebar will also be laid horizontally around the perimeter at each level of cinder block.

3. Cinderblock will be stacked straight, not interlaced, to create clean corners. "Lintel" cinderblock will be used so that concrete can flow into the corners. A vertical form will be placed outside each corner, so that the corners will fill with concrete in addition to each cell of cinderblock--meaning there will be a continuous flow of concrete vertically and horizontally at each level of cinderblock, and connecting through each corner. A bonding cement is planned before filling the cores with concrete to hold everything in place, and straps will be placed around the outside of the blocks to hold the corner forms in place and keep things from shifting.

4. I'm planning to make about 1/4 of the perimeter of the pool an infinity edge, and dug out enough space for a catch basin with enough capacity for about 40 gallons.

5. During the dig, I noticed that the hole does not drain or saturate much into the soil--significant rock/clay content. So I bored a 6-inch hole for drainage down the hill to ensure water doesn't collect around the pool and saturate the hillside behind the pool.

Here are my questions at this stage:

1. Given that I now have drainage underneath the pool, is it a smart or stupid idea to create a "gravity" drain option for the pool? I could tie in a pipe to the main drain and run it down the hill, and I could put the valve in an accessible location in case it needs to be replaced.

2. I'm just starting to get my head around waterproofing. Any recommendations on approach for this application? I will have access to the external walls of the pool before I backfill. Should that be bonded and waterproofed while it's accessible? Or only the inside?

3. I'm a little confused about the Bond Beam. Is the idea to put forms at the top of the cinderblock walls *after* they've been poured and cured, and then pour a continous perimeter on the top of the walls all the way around? Or is the idea to pour that at the same time as filling the cores?

4. I've seen some debate about engineering things to pour the floor at the same time as the walls. In that case, would you still pour a concrete footing for the walls before stacking the blocks? Or would you stack the blocks on gravel, notch the blocks to pass through the rebar, and only do a single pour?

5. With a 5-foot diameter floor, would you just do the double drains on the floor 3' apart? Or would you set one drain in the center and one on the wall?

Thank you for any and all advice,.
 

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Interesting project. I don't have all the answers but here is my thinking.

1. Given that I now have drainage underneath the pool, is it a smart or stupid idea to create a "gravity" drain option for the pool? I could tie in a pipe to the main drain and run it down the hill, and I could put the valve in an accessible location in case it needs to be replaced.

I think it depends how well the hill can handle the erosion from 700 gallons of water. You may need to place drain tile to channel the water flow.

2. I'm just starting to get my head around waterproofing. Any recommendations on approach for this application?

Look at...




I will have access to the external walls of the pool before I backfill. Should that be bonded and waterproofed while it's accessible? Or only the inside?

Typically the outside of buried gunite pools are not waterproofed.

Exposed outside walls should be waterproofed and finished to prevent efflorescence.

3. I'm a little confused about the Bond Beam. Is the idea to put forms at the top of the cinderblock walls *after* they've been poured and cured, and then pour a continous perimeter on the top of the walls all the way around? Or is the idea to pour that at the same time as filling the cores?

The bond beam needs to be tied into the block walls. I would think you need to sink rebar rods into the tops of the concrete block cement and tie them into the bond beam concrete.

Are you putting any rebar in the blocks? Place rebar into the blocks that stick up into the bond beam. Tie the rebar together horizontally for bonding purposes.

You mention bonding and you would need to have rebar in the walls to electrically bond the shell to the pool equipment.

4. I've seen some debate about engineering things to pour the floor at the same time as the walls. In that case, would you still pour a concrete footing for the walls before stacking the blocks? Or would you stack the blocks on gravel, notch the blocks to pass through the rebar, and only do a single pour?

Dunno. Maybe @setsailsoon or @jimmythegreek or @Rich D has ideas.
5. With a 5-foot diameter floor, would you just do the double drains on the floor 3' apart? Or would you set one drain in the center and one on the wall?

Double drains are actually a single drain tied together to be VGBA compliant. All drains must be VGBA compliant.

 
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4. I've seen some debate about engineering things to pour the floor at the same time as the walls. In that case, would you still pour a concrete footing for the walls before stacking the blocks? Or would you stack the blocks on gravel, notch the blocks to pass through the rebar, and only do a single pour?

Scrub,

Not sure I completely understand the design but the only way I know to do block is to pour the floor preferably with ~ 1" drop in the form boards so you can set the blocks and easily get them in place. Not all houses do a block ledge but in your case I think it would make the block work much easier. You may know this but just in case, how will you verify you have the block voids full of concrete? In houses we knock out a hole in the first course for concrete show then cover it with plywood scrap. I think the infinity edge is going to be challenging because the ration of basin volume to pool volume is large. When 2 people get in at the same time you will completely fill the basin and/or overflow it depending on body sizes. Mean for adult is ~18 gal. Not insurmountable but just a thing to keep in mind.

Cool idea!

Chris
 
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!

Yes, I will be putting rebar vertically through every core, and horizontally at every level. Probably two bars horizontally at the bottom and top, and maybe every other row?

Regarding the drainage, I can tie it directly into a collector drain pipe--I terraced the hillside and have drains all over. I was just wondering if there's a mechanical pitfall I might be ignorant about, where it turns out you want to avoid putting a drain out valve at the bottom of the water system.

Thank you for the clarification on the drains.

Very helpful! Thank you! I'll post pictures as I get started.
 
Scrub,

Not sure I completely understand the design but the only way I know to do block is to pour the floor preferably with ~ 1" drop in the form boards so you can set the blocks and easily get them in place. Not all houses do a block ledge but in your case I think it would make the block work much easier. You may know this but just in case, how will you verify you have the block voids full of concrete? In houses we knock out a hole in the first course for concrete show then cover it with plywood scrap. I think the infinity edge is going to be challenging because the ration of basin volume to pool volume is large. When 2 people get in at the same time you will completely fill the basin and/or overflow it depending on body sizes. Mean for adult is ~18 gal. Not insurmountable but just a thing to keep in mind.

Cool idea!

Chris
Thanks for the tip on the core filling verification. I was planning on pushing a spud down in the cores while filling, but I can see how that doesn't verify the cores are filled. How many holes do you knock out? One every few feet? Every core?

For the overflow basin, I dug out a pretty large and deep space. I might be able to get as much as 60 gallons. I haven't done the math yet on what's needed, but you're right, the surface area is small and a couple of people will displace a lot of water.
 
I was just wondering if there's a mechanical pitfall I might be ignorant about, where it turns out you want to avoid putting a drain out valve at the bottom of the water system.

You just want a high quality metal mechanical valve that seals well and will not leak.
 
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Thanks for the tip on the core filling verification. I was planning on pushing a spud down in the cores while filling, but I can see how that doesn't verify the cores are filled. How many holes do you knock out? One every few feet? Every core?

For the overflow basin, I dug out a pretty large and deep space. I might be able to get as much as 60 gallons. I haven't done the math yet on what's needed, but you're right, the surface area is small and a couple of people will displace a lot of water.
4 houses in South Florida Design to the new building code every door opening has to I have filled blocks on both sides and tied through the roof structure. We have to be able to prove that all of these courses are full to pass inspection. So we do all of them.

Good luck with your project and please don't hesitate if you have anymore questions. I love it when people on this site try novel stuff and then we get to look at the photos during and afterwards.
 
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Here's a quick snapshot of where I'm at. The hole is completely dug, and initial plumbing getting roughed in. The main drain connecting pipe is exactly 36" across. The pipe around the perimeter is 3" perforated drainage pipe, with a drainage outlet at 11 o'clock in the picture, and a drainage pipe inlet from the terrace that will be above the pool to the right. The floor of the hole is solid rock and dense clay, so everything should move through the drain pretty well.

I'll add three inches of gravel, which will bring everything level with the top of the perimeter drainage pipe. The perimeter of the concrete floor will be just inside, not on top of, the drainage pipe--so there will be a few inches of gravel between the concrete and the surrounding rock.

1649741259818.png

I followed someone or other's model and dug a trench for the drain pipe, but now that's looking like it was a mistake. My engineer recommended a 5" thick concrete floor, and 1.5" plumbing (roughly 7-800 gallon pool), but all the main drains I see have side inlets, and look to be 4" high, like the drawing below.

If I'm planning a 5" concrete floor, is the correct approach to put a dobie under the pipe so there's more concrete underneath the pipe? Or is the correct approach to add an adapter sleeve to extend the top of the drain so more concrete is over the pipe? Is there a reason why they don't have the pipe come in from below so you can run the pipe completely underneath the concrete?

Thank you for the help and encouragement. I've been slowed by the enormity of digging out so much rock, but now I'm trying to push to getting the floor poured as the next big milestone.

1649740953224.png
 

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If you can manageel the blocks you can manage some plywood and 2x4s to shape what you want. I'm in the northeast we couldn't build like that. It's rather easy to build forms and a one shot deal. Your time is still money in the end. If you waste hundreds of hours on this you could cut that in half working your normal gig and pay somebody and be ahead of the game....ur body will thank you
 
Okay. Some pictures. Over the weekend, my son and I knocked out all the rebar for the project. Doing dodecagonal bends was a lot easier with a bending machine. Took us about 4 hours to put around 450 bends into 50 pieces of rebar.

Spent a couple of days calling contractors and concrete companies last week. Was told that no one can work us in until the end of August. So... We're going to pour the floor of the pool ourselves and go from there. 32 bags of concrete hand mixed and poured... should be fun.

Couple of questions for concrete experts. I'm pouring a 5-inch thick floor, 81-inches in diameter, which will extend roughly 4 inches beyond the outside perimeter of the wall on all sides. Any recommendations on which formulation, and additives if any, to use? The bottom of the hole is a mix of hard rock and super-dense clay, so non-compressible. There's a drainage bore from the bottom of the hole down the hill, and there will be 3-inches of gravel and a perimeter drainage pipe to ensure water doesn't accumulate behind the pool.

Any recs on formulation of concrete for the floor, much appreciated. One contractor recommended the "tarp mixing" method as more efficient than using an electric mixer.

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We're going to pour the floor of the pool ourselves and go from there. 32 bags of concrete hand mixed and poured... should be fun.
We bought a used towable cement mixer off craigslist for cheap, and then sold it after using it for basically what we bought it for. It was way better than mixing by hand. Also, there is a concrete place near us that we used for different project, I think we paid $120 for1 yard of concrete that came with a towable mixer (that you had to return, obviously;) ).
 
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Use a high strength mix labeled #5000 psi. See if you can source some fiber mesh additive, many stone yards have bags of it. Get an electric 2 bag mixer it will do those bags in an hour, we can do a pallet in 2 hours. Use a bucket and figure out how much water is the right mix and make the process easier than guessing and waiting
 
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Use a high strength mix labeled #5000 psi. See if you can source some fiber mesh additive, many stone yards have bags of it. Get an electric 2 bag mixer it will do those bags in an hour, we can do a pallet in 2 hours. Use a bucket and figure out how much water is the right mix and make the process easier than guessing and waiting
Thank you!!! That's exactly what I was looking for. What do you think of the tarp method of mixing?
 

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