Find the squeak!

AtariMe

Member
Jan 28, 2021
10
California
So I was going to start up my spa today, which shares a plumbing and pump system with the pool, and it was having trouble priming as it has had several times lately. After a while of searching I zeroed in on a tail tell squeak, the same noise as if you have a nail in your tire. Slow and high-pitched, I have an air leak. Exactly where it's coming from is somewhat of a mystery to me. I could just start taking stuff apart but I would rather not. I tried the soapy water method and came up with a big bunch of nothing. I also tried following the noise to where it was loudest and that still proved to not show exactly what's going on or where. Are there any methods I'm overlooking or things I should do here to try and find it?
 
A,

Do you have this noise when the pump is running, or do you have this noise right after you shut the pump off?

Show us several pics of your equipment pad so we have a clue what equipment you have and maybe we can provide some troubleshooting tips.

When is the last time you lubed the pump basket lid?

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
I really wish I could share a video with you. The noise is still audible when everything is turned off including the breakers but only after the pump has attempted to prime. And the noise is much louder when you take the lid off of the pump. kind of like it's being amplified going down the pipe. I would've thought this would've stopped the vacuum but it's still there. I don't think it can be the pump basket lid because the vacuum noise can still be heard with the lid completely off. I'm happy to get some pics taken for you guys though.
 
Here are some equipment pics.
 

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A,

Why do you have a check valve in front of your main pump?

My "guess" is that your filter is leaking. Either at the Air Relief valve or at the big O-Ring. When you take the pump lid off it allows air in the system and makes the filter drain faster and makes the noise worse.

Put your finger over the air vent hole and see if the sound changes.

Let's see if some of our member have any better ideas.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
In my video I do this. I took the basket out of the pump. I then put my hand over the side sending water into the basket. After a moment the sound gets much quieter but not entirely silent. But then again maybe I'm not making a great seal. I then put my hand over the side taking water into the pump assembly. The sound immediately stops until there's some kind of acclamation and then it faintly returns.
 
A,

Put your finger over the output of the Filter vent valve.

I'd also open the check valve right in front of the pump and make sure it looks ok. In a well working pool, that check valve is never needed. I suggest that you take the "guts" out of the inside and see what happens.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
A,

I suggest that you work on your noise issue first.

I suggested taking the guts of the check valve out, just to eliminate that as your noise issue. My point was that it should not be needed, so if it works with the guts removed, I'd just leave it that way.

Often when pumps won't prime, a check valve gets added in front of the pump. This does not fix actual reason the pump won't prime, but it will often make the priming issue less noticeable.

Is your equipment pad way above the level of the pool?

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Update: Some progress.

Above you had asked about why I have check valves before the pumps. Check valves are needed before the pump when the pump system sits a higher elevation than the pool itself. Otherwise when the pump turns off, all the water will flow backward through the pipe and back into the pool.

As it turns out, the check valve was the issue. The spring had worn out and was not sealing the backflow properly. As a result the vacuum was not getting a good seal, causing the pumps to not prime well.

I'm not 100% convinced the issue is entirely solved. I think there might be another, smaller leak elsewhere, but I am going to test things out this weekend and see where we are.

Thank you.
 

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A,

Even when the equipment pad is above the water level of the pool, when you shut off the pump water should NOT flow back into the pool. This assumes the pump lid is not removed.

It is just like sticking your thumb over the end of a straw and pulling the straw out of a glass of water. Water will not come out of the straw unless you take your thumb off the end of the straw.

Adding the check valve is like putting your finger at the bottom of the straw. Yes it will stop the water, but it is not a fix for why your water drains back into the pool in the first place. You have an air leak somewhere in your plumbing.

Anyway.. Glad you were able to get the noise issue solved. :goodjob:

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Could very well be what you're saying is true. My pool guy has long suspected that I have a cracked pipe underground. But I have no water loss other than seemingly due to normal evaporation. After discussing this previously on the forum though many seem to think I do not have a cracked pipe. I might lose half an inch to an inch of water in a week. I might add about 2 to 3 inches of water each month. The size is about 40,000 gallons and the pool's water supply is completely self-contained so there's no way for it to refill itself.

Today I went out to the pump to turn on the spa and when I walked up to the pump after it had not been on for at least 24 hours I heard a slight whistling. Somewhat similar whistling to before. The difference being this time the water level in the basket was holding very high and only started dropping when I took the lid off. The whistling dissipated this time once the water level went down a bit with the lid off and some water had drained out of the filter. Currently the pump is functioning as normal as it ever has. in pool mode it fully primes. In spa mode I've never been able to get the water to prime all the way to the top consistently. It seems to prime about 3/4 of the way in spa mode when everything is functioning perfectly. still searching for a fix or the leak that causes that.
 
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