Is it that bad? Is this something I can upgrade to when it's time to replace the cell? I hear they don't last that long.
Newbie, TF-100 kit compared to pool store readings
- Thread starter Bethany1983
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 62,727
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You can upgrade to a 40000 gallon rated cell when this one fails.
Not sure how you heard they do not last long, if properly sized, 5 years at least. Mine is going on it 8th year.
My first cell lasted 9 years.... of course it was sized 3x the size of my pool. We always recommend going at least 2x the pool size so you do not have to run it non-stop and you'll have plenty of chlorine when needed.
Maddie
Maddie
Hayward website states the Extended Life Turbo Cell (TCELL925) is for up to 25000 gallons.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,727
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
DeanP66
0
When they rate SWGs, that rating is based on the cell running at 100% capacity 24/7. That's the reason we say to get one at least rated for double.
- Jul 9, 2016
- 227
- Pool Size
- 24000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
I bought a 60,000 gallon cell for my 24,000 gallon pool. It will put out 3.18 pounds of chlorine per day. I usually only run it for 18 hours per day at 24 percent to maintain my chlorine levels.
Ok so I'm gonna add 1 gallon + 1 cup bleach of 7.5% tomorrow morning, turn my generator up to 100% and then re-test the FC tomorrow before the pump shuts off at 6:30pm. I will report back with results. However, I would like to use these chemicals they gave me if I can so I don't waste them. I don't want to return them. I really like the lady and company and don't want to be on weird terms and have them thinking I know best than them. I will just leave the chemicals in my garage if I have to.
Attachments
Bethany..... from just reading these posts tonight I *KNOW* you know more than they do already. Ask them why a vinyl pool needs calcium???
Maddie
Maddie
This came from the TCELL manual...
"After any chlorination adjustment, monitor the pool’s chlorine level closely for 1-2 weeks. If the readings stabilize in the 1-3 ppm range then you are all set—otherwise make another small adjustment (up or down) to increase or decrease the chlorine level. Once the chlorinator is set, it is good practice to check your chlorine levels weekly to ensure operation is normal."
Why do they recommend 1-3ppm for FC?
https://www.hayward-pool.com/assets/documents/pools/pdf/manuals/TCELL925-manual-092631-rev-A.pdf
"After any chlorination adjustment, monitor the pool’s chlorine level closely for 1-2 weeks. If the readings stabilize in the 1-3 ppm range then you are all set—otherwise make another small adjustment (up or down) to increase or decrease the chlorine level. Once the chlorinator is set, it is good practice to check your chlorine levels weekly to ensure operation is normal."
Why do they recommend 1-3ppm for FC?
https://www.hayward-pool.com/assets/documents/pools/pdf/manuals/TCELL925-manual-092631-rev-A.pdf
- Jul 9, 2016
- 227
- Pool Size
- 24000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
In my opinion, they would rather err on the low side for liability reasons. They don't want people claiming the higher chlorine levels damaged their liner, swimsuits, hair, floats, furnishings, etc.
Well, the Balance PAK300 (calcium hardness increaser) says it's for corrosion of pool equpiment and surfaces, helps prevent corrosion, plaster etching (ok I know that doesn't apply to me) and wrinkling of liners.Bethany..... from just reading these posts tonight I *KNOW* you know more than they do already. Ask them why a vinyl pool needs calcium???
Maddie
Also, I DO have really hard water because we have well water, our shower doors get really bad with hard water spots and stuff all over them where you can't see good thru the glass shower door. Does this have ANYTHING to do with calcium? We DID fill the pool the first time with the water hose, if that means anything. But that was in January, it is now June.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,727
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Test the CH of your pool water. It does not go down unless you drain pool water and replace with lower CH water.
If you get hard water spots, I suspect the CH of your tap water is 300+ CH. Once you get over 400 CH, you need to start being concerned with scale formation. DO NOT ADD any of the calcium chloride.
If you get hard water spots, I suspect the CH of your tap water is 300+ CH. Once you get over 400 CH, you need to start being concerned with scale formation. DO NOT ADD any of the calcium chloride.
Yes, that sounds like hard water! If you have such hard water already.....why add more calcium? Waste of money, and too much calcium can cause scale problems on ALL types of pools. That's a roughness you'd feel on the walls.
My water in Columbia County is quite soft (~45).
My water in Columbia County is quite soft (~45).
If you feel bad about returning the chemicals, just discard them. You can do that later (anytime), just give these guys a chance to show you the way. You'll see it's worth it in the end. I have a pool store near me that uses the same products. I still get my liquid chlorine from them and I got some stabilizer from them. It's okay to support a local business, but trust these folks. You'll be happy.
I would definitely look into getting my chlorine from the pool store. I get a 12.5% chlorine from mine. Also, I would not worry so much about adding liquid chlorine. When these guys tell you that you need chlorine right away, dump gallon or two in there. It's not going to hurt a thing to go over the recommend level. I had my FC up to 25 last week. A lot of people recommend a weekly shock. It's not a big deal. Get some chlorine in your pool.
As for Muriatic Acid to lower PH. I was very nervous about using it. Do some reading on usage and storage. It is however, very effective and very inexpensive. Learn/read about putting the gallon jug right into the pool water and pouring the acid out with the lip of the bottle just a little bit above the water level. It is so much easier to do it that way. But, MA is wicked stuff so be careful. The thing is that the powder they gave you is pretty nasty too. It's acid. And, the powder makes it seem less nasty - it's not. That powder gets on stuff and causes damage.
Get your chlorine level up first. Follow the directions you've been given and you'll be fine in no time. MA can be learned in time. Your post said you're at 7.8. You may not need to adjust it for awhile. I just got my pool last year and I found this site after about a month of ownership. In that time, I've been vary happy with my pool. I've had to work through some issues and learn a few things but there's never been a time my water wasn't clear. That includes when I opened it after it's first winter close.
I would definitely look into getting my chlorine from the pool store. I get a 12.5% chlorine from mine. Also, I would not worry so much about adding liquid chlorine. When these guys tell you that you need chlorine right away, dump gallon or two in there. It's not going to hurt a thing to go over the recommend level. I had my FC up to 25 last week. A lot of people recommend a weekly shock. It's not a big deal. Get some chlorine in your pool.
As for Muriatic Acid to lower PH. I was very nervous about using it. Do some reading on usage and storage. It is however, very effective and very inexpensive. Learn/read about putting the gallon jug right into the pool water and pouring the acid out with the lip of the bottle just a little bit above the water level. It is so much easier to do it that way. But, MA is wicked stuff so be careful. The thing is that the powder they gave you is pretty nasty too. It's acid. And, the powder makes it seem less nasty - it's not. That powder gets on stuff and causes damage.
Get your chlorine level up first. Follow the directions you've been given and you'll be fine in no time. MA can be learned in time. Your post said you're at 7.8. You may not need to adjust it for awhile. I just got my pool last year and I found this site after about a month of ownership. In that time, I've been vary happy with my pool. I've had to work through some issues and learn a few things but there's never been a time my water wasn't clear. That includes when I opened it after it's first winter close.
I can swim after I shock the pool, right? Or no? Also I am going to buy some other bleach. I only have a small jug of great value and it's not enough so might as well save this for the house and go buy some from store.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,727
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You can safely swim in a pool as long as the FC is above the minimum and at or below SLAM level based on your CYA. You must also be able to see the bottom of the pool in the deep end of the pool.
- Jul 9, 2016
- 227
- Pool Size
- 24000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
See if your Walmart has Pool Essentials Chlorinating Liquid, it is 10%. It is in the garden center at my Walmart, but I have seen it in Seasonal, Toys, and action ally areas.
Ok well currently before even doing anything it's totally clear, I can see the bottom just fine as a matter of fact can hardly tell there's water in the pool
- May 3, 2014
- 62,727
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40