The cover is off, last year was my first year

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D

Debra Joan

Bronze Supporter
Jun 18, 2020
80
Peachtree Corners, Georgia
Last year was my first year taking care of the pool since my husband died. I feel like I forgot most of what I learned here. I apologize if I'm not posting this in the correct place. I've reread several topics, watched videos again and I'm ready to SLAM with your help.

Here are my starting numbers:

FC - less than 1
CC - less than 1
pH - 8.6
TA - 53
CH - 20
CYA - 14

I've never had to lower pH or raise CYA. In fact I had to do several partial drains last year to get the CYA down (and stopped using tablets as advised).

Please let me know in what order I should mount the attack.

ps
My local Home Depot, north Atlanta, no longer stocks HDX chlorinating liquid but did have Pool Essentials in a 4 gallon box for $15.98 dated 21 096 H2 11:06 ( 2021 96th day??)
 
First thing is to get some chlorine in your pool. Is it green, cloudy or crystal clear?

Also, lower pH using muriatic acid.

However, I do have a question regarding your testing. Are you using the TF-100 noted in your signature for the results above? The reason I ask is that some of them look suspect. The TF-100 won't give a number like 14 for CYA. It only goes down to 20, by tens. And the CH reading of 20 is really low if correct. And TA is usually measured in tens.

Using your own test numbers is the only reliable way to manage your pool.
 
I always have issue with acorns and some leaves in deep end of my pool. so, this year exactly I did following steps.

1- Before starting the pump, I cleaned acorns and leaves from deep end with leaf skimmer as much as I cleaned.
2- I brushed the entire pool bottom and walls.
3- I started the pump and pumped out all of antifreeze from plumbing
4- I turned the multiway valve to "Recirculate" position.
5- I dissolved the shock in a bucket then poured in the skimmer
6- I added flocculant then run the pump another 1 hour then shut downed it.
7- I turned multiway valve to "Waste" position then vacuumed the deep end.
8- I added phosphate remover + algeacide + baking soda + chlorine stabilizer ( with instruction on packages)
9- I put skimmer socks for each skimmer
10- I recharged the pump and run it.
11- next morning I could see the deep end.

I hope it helps.
 
bmoreswim said:
First thing is to get some chlorine in your pool. Is it green, cloudy or crystal clear?

Also, lower pH using muriatic acid.

However, I do have a question regarding your testing. Are you using the TF-100 noted in your signature for the results above? The reason I ask is that some of them look suspect. The TF-100 won't give a number like 14 for CYA. It only goes down to 20, by tens. And the CH reading of 20 is really low if correct. And TA is usually measured in tens.

Using your own test numbers is the only reliable way to manage your pool.
Click to expand...
bmoreswim,

Well, you caught me here. I do have and last year used the TF-100 kit. I took a sample of water to a local county pool where I swim in the winter and they used a few drops in a LaMotte reader. Please don't toss me out of the club .... I promise to get familiar with doing my own testing again!

The pool walls and bottom are overed with algae. Think of a green lagoon. I can "make out" the bottom in the shallow end.

How much muriatic acid? How much 10% liquid chlorine? Should I be concerned with anything else to start my Slam?

Thank you for your help,
 
Use the PoolMath mobile app and enter your pool size, and it will help you calculate how much you need of everything - to raise your FC by X, increase CYA to 30, and to lower your pH to 7.2.

But you should do your own tests to make sure they're accurate before doing that. You can blindly add liquid chlorine every day until you have your own test results.
 
Haha Debra Joan! We are as tolerant as they come towards the pleasant, well-intentioned learner, but occasionally prone to getting a pool store test while under duress from a green swamp. But we do need you to break out your trusty TF-100 and get us a full set of test results.

That’s nice and fresh chlorine. What you need to do is perform the SLAM Process. Please carefully read the process and follow it closely. Asking questions along the way. The First two steps are to get your pH to 7.2 and CYA to 20 or 30 based on your own testing results.

As you do that, also brush daily and use your cleaner and/or net to get all debris off the bottom.

You got this. It may not be quick but it’s a formula and it works.
 
And yes, the PoolMath is the greatest thing since sliced bread. You have to subscribe to save results but it’s an amazing tool for managing your pool. It will do all your calculations on how much to add. We are MUCH better off waiting until you get your own results to provide you a start on those calculations for chemical additions.
 
I've got all the chemicals ready to start the Slam process. First it was toilet paper and now I can't find sand! I'm still short 50 lbs. of HTH sand needed after filter surgery (replaced laterals and adhered stand centering "cup"). Local Ace hopes to have it tomorrow.

I'll get my own numbers once I've got the pump running ... thank you all for your advice.
 
You bet. Hopefully they come through with the sand. If you want any refreshers on using your test kit, there are good articles on the tests here...

- Trouble Free Pool
 

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Backwashed and rinsed new sand. I had to replace the filter gauge. With pump motor off the gauge wouldn't drop to zero ( stayed at 20 ).

I started Slam and remembered from last year to stay close to home because filter pressure increases quickly as dead algae fills sand. I'm having to backwash quite often but know times inbetween backwashes will lengthen as water clears ( I hope! ).
 
Can't you just add the sand, then stick a hose in the filter to clean it? Maybe it doesn't clean the sand that well? I put new sand in a kiddie pool and top it with water to clean it. Then I put it in the filter and flush it again with the hose.

Question about the anti freeze. I have never used anti freeze. Am I supposed to?
 
pypeke,
Last year I noticed sand in the pool and in my backwash. I had to remove all the sand to replace the laterals. I had no idea how much sand went in the pool and out when backwashing so I just started over with 300 pounds of new sand. Otherwise, like you, I would have just cleaned the sand. I'm not sure why it was mentioned but being in Atlanta I don't use antifreeze.

bmoreswim,
With my cya being under 20 I have 2 stockings, with 40 ounces of cyanuric acid in each (80 oz. total), dangling in front of my returns. I'll check cya in 24 hours. Should I "shoot" for 40 or 50 cya?
 
If your plan is to SLAM, make sure you understand the complete process. Less CYA means a lower SLAM level, so target 40 CYA using the sock method then assume your CYA is 40 to determine your target SLAM FC level.
 
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Yes, definitely only 40. 30 or 40 is good for SLAM. Key is that with yours less than 20, it's hard to tell how much you have in there (reading the CYA test at that level is hard). So we like to ensure we are getting a good reading of the level, but still being on the low end of acceptable to need lower target SLAM levels for FC.
 
Thank you for explanations ...

Well, 80 ounces of cyanuric acid (Clorox Stabilizer granuals (FYI - 4 lbs. from Walmart, $6 less than Lowes)) went in via stocking yesterday afternoon and is not showing up yet. How long does it normaly take for cya to show up/increase? BTW, with the stocking in front of the return(s) I could watch the "cloud" of chemical entering the water - really cool!


I'm keeping FC at 5 and the pool has gone from dark green to medium green and continues to lighten .... with less frequent back washing.
 

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A few things to mention ... doing a search I have read it can take up to a week to see CYA. Someone said with the sock method it took only 24 hours?? I also read that using the sock method it took some as long as a day to dissolve. Using a stocking my stabilizer was "gone" in under 2 hours. Did I do this wrong?
 
If it was all dissolved now, it should show up within a day or two. But proceed with the SLAM assuming it's at the level you targeted. Time to up your FC and proceed.

As you begin, it's best to be able to test and re-dose with liquid chlorine numerous times per day. Four or five times equally spaced would be reasonable as your FC will be used fairly quickly at the outset. Then you'll work down to twice or once a day as your FC holds more stable for longer periods. But per the SLAM instructions, I just want to ensure you've lowered your pH to about 7.2 (7.2-7.5). You won't be able to test it during the SLAM due to test interference of FC levels above 10.
 

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