IC20 Not Generating Chlorine

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M

Megarms

Well-known member
Dec 23, 2017
90
Eldersburg, MD
Just opened my pool this weekend and the IC20 is not generating chlorine again.

-Salt Level is 3600 ppm
-Water Temp is 56 degrees
-Diagnostics show 0% salt
-Flow Switch was replaced last year under warranty (I am 13 days out of warranty this year)

I have never Acid Cleaned the IC20 as it always seems to be crystal clear and looking through it. I was going to buy some Muriatic Acid today, however I do not have the cleaning kit yet. Is there another way to clean without that kit? Will cellophane and a rubber band work?

I have a call into Pentair requesting a warranty exception, but am not holding my breath. Any other suggestions short of replacing the entire thing or replacing the flow switch again?

Thank you.

Flow IC20 - Low Salt.jpgDiagnostics.jpg
 
M,

Why in the world do you want to acid clean your cell? You should never do that if the cell is clean. Cleaning the cell has zero to do with a low salt reading.

It appears that your cell thinks the salt level is low and that is why the low salt light is on.. The cell determines the salt level based upon the water temperature.. 56 degrees water will cause the cell to report a lower salt level than the actual salt level.. I suspect your problem is the cold water and a flow switch thermistor that is not a accurate as it should be.

I like your idea of call Pentair, but if they are of no help, replacing the flow switch is a pretty simple and cheap DIY deal.

As an emergency fix, until you get a new flow switch, you can cut the green wire halfway between the flow switch and the cell.. This removes the thermistor and makes the cell think the water temp is about 72 degrees. Here is a diagram that can be used to install a temp probe in place of the flow switch thermistor.. I show it just to give you an idea of what is going on.


Temp probe hack.jpg

Temp probe hack.jpg



Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
M,

Why in the world do you want to acid clean your cell? You should never do that if the cell is clean. Cleaning the cell has zero to do with a low salt reading.

It appears that your cell thinks the salt level is low and that is why the low salt light is on.. The cell determines the salt level based upon the water temperature.. 56 degrees water will cause the cell to report a lower salt level than the actual salt level.. I suspect your problem is the cold water and a flow switch thermistor that is not a accurate as it should be.

I like your idea of call Pentair, but if they are of no help, replacing the flow switch is a pretty simple and cheap DIY deal.

As an emergency fix, until you get a new flow switch, you can cut the green wire halfway between the flow switch and the cell.. This removes the thermistor and makes the cell think the water temp is about 72 degrees. Here is a diagram that can be used to install a temp probe in place of the flow switch thermistor.. I show it just to give you an idea of what is going on.


Temp probe hack.jpg

Temp probe hack.jpg



Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
I obviously have very little experience with this type of stuff but do want to learn. Cleaning the cell was suggested by Pentair, even after I told them that it was clean. I called Pentair and they agreed to send me a new flow switch, but who knows when it will get here.

So, in order to get this thing generating chlorine before the water warms up, you think that I need to cut the green wire? Will it be ok if I just cap it and then splice it back together once the water warms up?
 
M,

Sure, you can reconnect it..

Keep in mind that inside the cable between the cell and the flow switch are four wires, all different colors.. For now, you only want cut the green one. When the new flow switch shows up, you will have to cut all of them to install the new flow switch.

Another thing.. You have two different but related issues.. Your EasyTouch shows zero salt and the low salt light is on.. Hopefully cutting the green wire will solve the salt light issue. It may or may not help the zero salt level on the ET.. It does not matter, as long as the salt light on the cell is green, it will produce chlorine, even if the ET still show zero.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Megarms said:
I obviously have very little experience with this type of stuff but do want to learn. Cleaning the cell was suggested by Pentair, even after I told them that it was clean. I called Pentair and they agreed to send me a new flow switch, but who knows when it will get here.

So, in order to get this thing generating chlorine before the water warms up, you think that I need to cut the green wire? Will it be ok if I just cap it and then splice it back together once the water warms up?
Click to expand...
Ugh. Am I only supposed to have three wires (red, black, and white) coming out of the flow sensor itself? Looks like there are some strands of wire coming off of the green. Wonder if this is contributing to my problem. I’m nervous about cutting the green but will do it if you think it is right.
13F89B7E-4924-4D17-B32B-D2EB3F3A7DE5.jpeg
 
You have the white wire connected to the green wire. That is incorrect. You need to have the white wire connected to the white wire and the green is not used.

I would take all of the connections apart and redo them. The green will be capped off and not used.
 
M,

I am not sure how the inside of the new flow switch is wired.. :(

I am also not sure if the connectors you have can be reused. :scratch:

Since you have a new flow switch coming, for now, I would connect both white wires together.. And not have the green connected to anything. This would at least mean your flow switch would be wired per Pentair's instructions.

I suspect that will make it work again.. Please let us know what happens.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

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M,

No matter what, it is not working now..

I would start by disconnecting (or cutting) the white wires from each end of the connector and wire them together... It can't be any worse that it is right now, and at least it would be wired correctly.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
JamesW said:
Not really.
Click to expand...
OK. I am VERY happy to report back that you were right. I am totally confused as to how this system worked all year last year wired like this.

Is it possible that the serviceman intentionally wired it this way and then somehow overrode the system manually? Could someone do that in order to force another service visit. Fact is, my friends are all too stupid (like me), to play a prank like this.



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