Atlanta Area New Build

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Pdp

Active member
Apr 10, 2021
31
Atlanta, GA
Pool Size
12000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Hi all,

I've been reading up and trying to get smart before taking the plunge... I'll be new to owning and maintaining a pool but the time is right for our family. I want to share the enjoyment of a pool with my boys that my grandparents gave to me, my brothers, and cousins as children.

I want to catalog the planning and build here in this thread, maybe ask some questions, learn from others' experiences and keep a record of the process. We interviewed numerous builders in the area and ended up asking for quotes from the three with whom we were most comfortable. After getting initial proposals, we decided to only move forward with further planning with two of the builders. Both are well-established, long-time builders and both have great reputations. We have neighbors who have used one or the other so we have seen first hand the end product.

We're really leaning towards one over the other currently. The quotes aren't terribly far off in price though the more expensive builder isn't too hot on SWCG pools, though will be happy to install one and previously did hundreds of them before moving to UV/Chlorine (yes, I've read up on UV here and understand the consensus in the forums...). The builder states that they've seen too many problems from salt issues on the equipment pad, with wiring corrosion, and surface wear. I'm fairly confident that we want a salt pool and believe the issues may have more to do with lack of care than the salt content of the pool.

The second quote is slightly less expensive and checks all of the boxes that my wife and I were after. This seems like the way to go so I'm going to list some of the proposal details here.

I've already asked for some clarification and details on a number of items below, looking for equipment specificity and I have asked about Automation. No details were provided other than about charging an additional $2700 to "add automation."

Thanks for all of the great info here, I look forward to learning and participating with everyone.

PatrickScreen Shot 2021-04-15 at 5.25.21 PM.png

WarrantyPool Shell-Duration of ownership for water retention
Underground Plumbing- 5 Years
Tile- 2 Years
Pool Parts- 3 Years
Interior Finish- (Listed Below)
Construction- 2 Years		1
Pool- Dimensions & Shape14' X 36' Custom Design1
Pool- Square FootageInstall a custom concrete pool shell. The swimming pool shell will be designed and installed using pneumatically applied concrete reinforced with a rebar cage tied 12" on center with a three row steel reinforced 12" bond beam.504
Pool- Linear FootagePool- Linear Footage100
Pool- Depth3' - 5'1
Pool Coping Type - TravertineChoice of 12" X 24" Ivory or Noce travertine coping100
Pool- Waterline TileChoice of standard frostproof waterline tile100
Tanning LedgeIncluded per plan
Pool- Umbrella SleevePool- Umbrella Sleeve inside Tanning Ledge1
Water FeaturesBubbler Water Features on Tanning Ledger2
Pool- Number of BenchesPool- Number of Benches1
Pool- Sets of StepsPool- Sets of Steps1
Permitting- Standard Permitting- Expediting and Site Plans*We will perform standard permitting for the project. Permitting will begin when the start date timeframe is determined, a contract is signed, deposit received, and survey/plat received. The owner will provide us with any required property plats, surveys, septic layouts (if applicable), topographies (if applicable), engineering reports (if applicable), anything required by the owner's jurisdiction.
*All inspections will be called in and checked by our office staff. If there is a permit box, we may ask for assistance in getting inspections results.		1
Permitting- Standard Permitting- Jurisdiction FeesIncluded1
Permitting- Jurisdiction RequirementsProvide the Owner with Window and Door Alarms as required by the permitting jurisdiction. The alarms will be installed by the owner as directed by the contractor. Two sided tape is provided for simple and quick installation1
Construction - Silt Fence*Silt Fence is included
*Silt Fence removal is not included. Must be done by your landscape contractor immediately preceding the installation of ground cover.		1
Excavation & Standard Site Preparation*In order to build your new swimming pool, we will need access to the swimming pool construction area for large equipment and various areas to stage equipment/materials while building the pool. We do not include repairs to the access or staging areas as damages (if any) are unknown until the work is complete. The construction access will be finalized on the morning of excavation.
*Before excavation is performed, we will call 811 to have the utilities marked. If there are any utilities in your yard, please notify our office prior to excavation.
*If you have a fence or a gate that will not allow our equipment into the yard, we will remove the section of fence required for the equipment. We suggest having a fencing contractor re-install the fence, but will attempt to reinstall the fence at no charge with no guarantees. The owner assumes all risk and liability for the access unless specifically called out in the scope of work mentioned below.
*The project completion time will be 60-70 working days** The start date is the morning of excavation and the completion date is when the pool is filling with water. **Working days are Monday through Friday. Weekend days, rain days, and holidays are excluded.		1
Pool- SkimmersPressure Tested Schedule 40 PVC Pipe2
Pool - Main DrainsPressure Tested Schedule 40 PVC Pipe2
Pool- ReturnsPressure Tested Schedule 40 PVC Pipe3
Interior Finish- Pebble Tec / Sheen Warranty 15 Years
Desert Gold Pebble Sheen		1
Grading-Rough Grade- Will not be landscape ready. Will need a final grade done by a landscape professional.1
Pool Equipment-Pentair Intellibrite 5G White LED Pool Light1
Pool Equipment-Three-way Jandy Valves4
Pool Equipment-Pentair Intellichlor IC-40 Salt System1
Pool Equipment-Pentair Intelliflo Variable Speed 3 HP Pump1
Pool Equipment-Pentair/Sta-Rite Modular Media 500 Cartridge Filter1
Pool EquipmentEquipment Pads2
Electrical-Electrically bond the pool and wire in all included pool equipment and accessories.1
Electrical-Bonding Grid1
Electrical-Sub Panel/Meter Tap1
Electrical-Freeze Protector Circuit1
Water Feature-Deck Jets (4)1


 
Welcome to TFP.

Pool- Depth3' - 5'

Is that depth from bond beam or water depth from halfway up the skimmer mouth? Builders usually talk depth from bond beam and buyer think it is water depth. The difference can be around 6 inches.

3' water depth is too shallow to swim in. We recommend at least 3.5' water depth.

What will be the water depth of your tanning ledge?

No heater?

@kimkats may have more to say.
 
Hi and what a fun time in your life. It will also be a stressful time. We can and will help you build the best pool for your family.

Lets work on that depth. Like @ajw22 noted 3' is way too shallow. You cannot do a crawl stroke without scrapping your knuckles on the bottom. Then there is the 5' depth...........that is almost as bad as most females cannot stand in it but it is too shallow to really enjoy as you cannot cannon ball into it with bumping your fanny hard.

Lets talk about how you plan on using the pool.............is it a social cocktail pool where every one will be floating and walking around chatting? or will there be some kids (or young acting adults) that will want to jump in to splash people? how about swimming laps? Tell us how you see your family using the pool and we can help you dial in the depth. Making sure everyone is talking about WATER depth as well!

Kim:kim:
 
Allen and Kim, Thanks for the comments and questions to chew on. I will confirm that we are talking about water depth with the builders, I suspect thats the case but will CONFIRM and make sure thats what goes into the contract.

As for pool use, we intend this to be multipurpose and work for us hopefully through different phases of life. My wife and I will float around on noodles, swim casually and not for laps or exercise, enjoy being in the water over conversation with adult friends, use the pool as an outdoor gathering area even when not swimming.

Our kids will play games, swim underwater, retrieve sinker toys, and as they get older will probably want to play some games with balls/nets and maybe swim short laps end to end as they burn off excess youthful energy! "Cannonball" will be the only permitting jumping in. We have a family member with a spinal injury and diving is not something that will occur here. If the kids want to dive, they can join the team in a pool built for it. We'll provide that outlet in that way if thats what they want to do. I know that people will say "deep end" because kids will do whatever regardless, but we're not going to go deeper than max of about 6' water depth.

Whats not shown here is that we have a large covered patio that opens onto the pool area. We plan to install a large pergola down the length of the pool, and will landscape down the opposing length for privacy and aesthetics.

Our youngest now is 5, and 3.5 feet will keep him JUST above the waterline, with sounds like it could be a good plan. he's growing, there is ample room on the shelf for youngsters, and the steps provide the transition that we've already seen the 5 year old make from splashing around the shallow to being comfortable actually swimming.

Whats a good depth for the shelf? I'll get builders input on that as well, but what do people here find useful. I understand the cleaning robots like to have 12" as a minimum to effectively clean an area.

Regarding the heater... We want to have a heater/chiller. We don't have natural gas, propane is expensive, and electricity is cheap (almost free overnight on our rate plan). I've had the builders quote the heater/chiller and have asked them to factor in that we may not decide to buy that initially but to factor in space on the pad, electrical, plumbing, etc as if we are going to do it so that we have the easy option to retrofit it in a couple of years if we decide its necessary. Its something we want, but it may not make the cut in division of resources to get the project done. Have the draw the line somewhere and I'd rather not sacrifice the size, finishes, or features that can't be added later on!

Patrick
 
Last edited:
ajw22 said:
If you may add a heat pump leave a space on your equipment pad for it and get sufficient electrical to add 50 amps for the HP.

Consider having an auto0mation panel like the IntelliCenter.

Pentair Automation Systems - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Pentair UltraTemp Heat Pump - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
Ajw, that’s the plan to leave space on the pad and in the plumbing, spec the electrical. I’m probably going to do at least easytouch if not intellicenter...
 
Get the ET or IC with the IC40 bundled and integrated power center. With the ET you need Screenlogic2. The cost of ET + SL2 is only around $300 less than the IC. For a few hundred more you should get the IC.
 
Pdp said:
The builder states that they've seen too many problems from salt issues on the equipment pad, with wiring corrosion, and surface wear
Click to expand...
*If* your pool water ever touches the pad or the wiring near said pa........ you’ve got WAY bigger problems than new wire nuts.

Any other of his comments about it are now suspect at best.

I just purchased my SWG before even having a contract with the PB. I’m THAT sure of them. (But if you really want to start with liquid Chlorine we will happily teach you that too) :)

Also, also.... belated Welcome to TFP !!!
 
ajw22 said:
Get the ET or IC with the IC40 bundled and integrated power center. With the ET you need Screenlogic2. The cost of ET + SL2 is only around $300 less than the IC. For a few hundred more you should get the IC.
Click to expand...
PB says their distributor seems to think based on returns and warranty issues that the EasyTouch is the way to go. Says lots of connectivity and antenna issues with intellitouch? Says his distributor couldn’t confidently say that all of the issues are resolved as of yet. I haven’t made any final decision as of now.
 
Other thing is he wants to do the sta-rite 500 filter. The replacements are about $600. Says he likes it a lot better than the pentair clean and clear plus 520. Only $400 replacement on those, any other real difference or concerns? I’ve searched some threads on that topic of cartridge filters and seems it really is personal preference... I don’t think there’s likely any appreciable difference in their filtering from what I can tell.
 

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Pdp said:
Other thing is he wants to do the sta-rite 500 filter. The replacements are about $600. Says he likes it a lot better than the pentair clean and clear plus 520. Only $400 replacement on those, any other real difference or concerns? I’ve searched some threads on that topic of cartridge filters and seems it really is personal preference... I don’t think there’s likely any appreciable difference in their filtering from what I can tell.
Click to expand...

best to note- ive referenced a few comments from different builders in my posts. They are comments from two different builders, not one schizophrenic builder! Just intermingled amongst my replies.
 
Pdp said:
Other thing is he wants to do the sta-rite 500 filter. The replacements are about $600. Says he likes it a lot bette
Click to expand...
I’m trying to replace mine for my new build. You’ll never notice the extra 20 sq ft when it needs to be cleaned 1.01 years later instead of 1.0, but the S8M breaks apart by hand with no tools and only has 2 (albeit large) cartridges inside. The smaller and easier to handle 4 cartridge system has parts that hold them together and it’s a trade off.

If you are in a good spot physically for the foreseeable future to be able to handle the larger cartridges, I would vote for the all but indestructible SM8. If you are already winding down or want less physically stressful maintenance, then the CNC520 (or equivalent) would get my vote for you.
 
Here are the two diagrams for reference C15000E9-DFF9-4735-BB8F-29F198AF2B11.gifC9FCEBC2-8851-425B-B0C5-7C697E350B05.jpegthe S8M has 8 of the clamps listed as part 20 that have big knobs that turn by hand but after that the shell comes apart and there is nothing inside but filter. The CNC520 has a belt like clamp that gives people struggle at times or will need to be replaced due to weathering, and inside is a lot more parts to line up / go bad. Not saying they will go bad, but the possibility is there.
 
Here's an update as we dial in on our design and specs. We've decided to change the decking/surround plan slightly. My wife loves to landscape and saw this photo that was very much in line with other inspiration ideas, but REALLY leveraged landscape the way she likes.IMG_0739.JPG

So we're going to do a 12" travertine coping, with an additional 12" of paver for a two foot width coping look. We are going to landscape 2 sides of it, and then do some articial turf between our covered concrete patio off the back of the house, and up to the deck/pergola along the other long edge. Pergola and deck will be a separate project for me to tackle maybe after year one with the pool installed. 2 ft of stone edge all the way around will give me space to clean the pool as needed, and to address landscaping as well. Returns on the landscaping side, skimmers on the decking side. Should make for easy access to the skimmer baskets for cleaning. Prevailing winds are about evenly split where we are between east and west so I think its a wash which side skimmers are going on.

Easy Touch 8 with screen logic. builder quoted $500 more for intellitouch, but I was actually planning on NO automation to begin with. based on some of the threads here and his feedback about intellitouch, I'm going to plan on EasyTouch. I'm sure that Intellitouch is a great system that will continue to improve and I usually early-adopt on many things in life, but I'm going to stick with tried and true for this system that I want to operate with appliance-like reliability.

I'm going to stick with the pentair-sta-rite 500 filter. Good points above, and again, good builder feedback on it. Thanks for the images and info, Newdude.

Here are some very basic mockups that I made showing where we're going with the plan. Also, the deck jets and lights are being redrawn to use even spacing, that was an oversight being corrected. Tanning ledge will be 12" target water depth, step-in as depicted if needed.

All thoughts, feedback and criticism is always welcomed! We're learning a TON just reading and browsing here.

-Patrick
Screen Shot 2021-04-22 at 9.15.41 AM.pngPoollayout Image 7.JPGFeature Layout 2.JPG
 
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We've decided who to move forward with, and now down to some other details, questions, and waiting!

Independently plumbed and valved skimmers? yay or nay? it will cost me $550 extra to have it done that way. Pros and Cons?

We're extending the bench at the end into an "L" so that it will better serve adults in conversation. I'll keep things updated as progress is made.
 
Pdp said:
Independently plumbed and valved skimmers? yay or nay? it will cost me $550 extra to have it done that way. Pros and Cons?
Click to expand...

Yay.

It makes it easier diagnosing individual skimmer problems. It also allows you to balance the skimmers. And it allows you to shut one down individually if that skimmer develops a problem.
 
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I’m adding the skimmer plumbing and intellicenter (instead of easytouch 8) to my possible upgrade list. I might do it. Trying to decide if it’s worth the money.

In the meantime, we signed the contract tonight so the process can begin!

we spent the weekend with our sons enjoying being in the water and I’m really feeling like this was the right time to get this ball rolling. They’re both little fish and can’t wait for this now! I told them tonight I’d do a polar plunge when the pool is complete, probably sometime once it gets cold again!
 
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Just some thoughts- we’re on a well, no city water. I think that the initial fill will be done by truck, at least that’s what I’m planning for now.
But for refill, maybe it’s time to add some filtration or softener to our home. Here’s our water report from 2 years ago. Low iron, but high calcium, magnesium, and manganese.
 

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Here's an update. Pool was marked out, the county took FOREVER in getting to the permit approval. That went without a hitch. Once that was done, the builder laid out the schedule and so far has stuck to it. The pool was dug out in a morning, and then plumbing and rebar was laid out. County inspection on the "Basket" presented no issues.

So far, my only concerns have been minor and promptly addressed by the builder. I believe they are swamped with number of builds going on, but have been responsive enough regardless. I've been assured that our placement for deck jets will be exactly as per plan, and that the sight twist in one of the skimmers will be adjust prior to shooting the pool on Thursday.

Lastly, one corner of 4 is unlike the others dimensionally, with the rebar being too short on the horizontal top face of the bond area. Again they assured me that it will be adjusted prior to concrete so that we have uniformity of material enclosing the rebar, and that the angles are true 90's. so minor stuff and I'll be on site to give final approval before concrete starts to flow.

So far, so good. All of our equipment is here except for the Intellicenter which the dealer has on order. No ETA but I haven't pressed him for it either. If all else fails I'll have him hook up timers until the intellicenter is in hand and he can have it connected.

Rough grade should occur the morning after they shoot the shell, and I"ll be off to the races doing my own final grade work... wish me luck!

Everything is falling into place, here's a couple of pictures. Will follow with a few more after concrete work.
 

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