Help me update my system, please!
- Thread starter AviatorBimmer
- Start date
Long story short, I was paying a pool maintenance company to maintain my pool. They would come every Wednesday, quick brush, cleaning, check pH and throw a cup of chlorine in the water. This was done every Wednesday for the past 5 months.
I've now decided to learn and maintain my own pool so I purchased a test kit and my FC is through the roof!
The color is almost reddish! I followed the instructions precisely and have tested it several times with the same results.
I am planning on installing a SWG and converting my pool this weekend.
How should I tackle this?
Should I wait until the FC comes down? Or should I go ahead and install the SWG anyway and just not turn it on until the FC comes down?
I've now decided to learn and maintain my own pool so I purchased a test kit and my FC is through the roof!
The color is almost reddish! I followed the instructions precisely and have tested it several times with the same results.
I am planning on installing a SWG and converting my pool this weekend.
How should I tackle this?
Should I wait until the FC comes down? Or should I go ahead and install the SWG anyway and just not turn it on until the FC comes down?
- May 3, 2014
- 59,263
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
If you are using the ColorQ to test FC, I believe it maxes out at 5 ppm (might be 10).
You need a proper test kit to manage your pool water chemistry. See Test Kits Compared
You need a proper test kit to manage your pool water chemistry. See Test Kits Compared
I used this one
I have the ColorQ in my signature because I will be using that one once it arrives on Sunday.
Attachments
- May 3, 2014
- 59,263
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
That one is really not worth it. The TC test is only good to know there is chlorine in the water.
The ColorQ has limitations.
www.troublefreepool.com
The ColorQ has limitations.
Pool Test Kits - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
That one is really not worth it. The TC test is only good to know there is chlorine in the water.
The ColorQ has limitations.
Pool Test Kits - Further Reading
Hmmmm So should I return the ColorQ? I would like a digital kit because my eyes aren't what they used to be. I hate having to strain to really decide what shade of color it is.
What you recommend?
- May 3, 2014
- 59,263
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Only test that uses any form of shade of color is the pH test. All the other titration tests are color to no color or one color to another color.
I would recommend getting a proper test kit.
I would recommend getting a proper test kit.
That's right lol I guess neither test I ordered is a proper test kit. I just keep throwing money away.I have both the ColorQ and the TF-100. The ColorQ isn't accurate, reads low on the chlorine, pretty close on the PH, close on the CYA, high on the ALK and the CH can be way low, especially when the CH2 agent is older than a few months.
Since my water is usually very well dialed in, I like the ColorQ as a quick way to see trend changes, but I don't rely on it for actual measurements. The TF-100 takes more time to run through all the tests, but is much more accurate. I use that one after making changes to my water chemistry...like when trying to reach a specific shock, PH or CYA level.
Having both kits is useful to me, even though one is less accurate. If you get the TF-100, get the speed stir. Using this kit without the speed stir would be like driving with your feet.
Since my water is usually very well dialed in, I like the ColorQ as a quick way to see trend changes, but I don't rely on it for actual measurements. The TF-100 takes more time to run through all the tests, but is much more accurate. I use that one after making changes to my water chemistry...like when trying to reach a specific shock, PH or CYA level.
Having both kits is useful to me, even though one is less accurate. If you get the TF-100, get the speed stir. Using this kit without the speed stir would be like driving with your feet.
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Well, I will go ahead and order the TF-100 with the speed stir and return the ColorQ. I don't see why have both, especially when the ColorQ costs $170. I'll just use the TF-100 for all measurements.
Thanks!
- May 3, 2014
- 59,263
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Basic Pool Care Schedule
This basic pool care schedule can guide you in creating your own pool care routine. Regular pool maintenance will keep your water sparkling!
www.troublefreepool.com
I suggest FC and pH daily for awhile to get the feel of your pool. TA weekly, especially if adding acid. CYA and CH should be done monthly, unless there are significant changes due to water overflow, refill, etc.Basic Pool Care Schedule
This basic pool care schedule can guide you in creating your own pool care routine. Regular pool maintenance will keep your water sparkling!
Sweet! Oh and back to the topic of not being able to really distinguish between colors on the test, I see Taylor also sells a pH Meter. Do you recommend it at least for that part of the test?
- May 3, 2014
- 59,263
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
pH testers are used by many here on the forum. I believe the Apera ph60 is well regarded.
Ok, so far I have ordered the TF-100 kit with Smart Stir, purchased all 2" elbows, 2" piping, 2" Pentair 3-way valves and CircuPool RJ-30 SWG. I'm really looking forward to putting it all together this weekend!
I have a couple of questions though...
1. For my pump and 2" piping, Hayward states there must be a minimum length of 10" between the pump's intake and valve. If I go say with 20", would that be an issue?
2. On the filter side of things, there is no minimum pipe length requirements? I can have an elbow right on the filter's casing?
I have a couple of questions though...
1. For my pump and 2" piping, Hayward states there must be a minimum length of 10" between the pump's intake and valve. If I go say with 20", would that be an issue?
2. On the filter side of things, there is no minimum pipe length requirements? I can have an elbow right on the filter's casing?
I believe the pump input minimum length is to reduce the turbulence of the water as it enters the pump basket area. It's not an exact science and also depends on your flow rate. I have a double elbow within 8 inches of the pump chamber input and it hasn't caused any issues. I don't think there is any limitation on the output side.
Attachments
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Quick Update:
While I wait for my TF-100 to arrive, I took a sample of my pool water to my local mom and pops pool store and they tested it for me.
Here are the results:
CYA: 50
FC: 10+
PH: 8.2
Alkalinity: 90
Adjusted Alkalinity: 65
CH: 290
Salt: 650
They told me to add the following:
• 3 lbs of dry stabilizer to bring CYA up to 75.
• 14 ozs of liquid 31.45% muriatic acid to bring pH down to 7.6
• 9 bags of salt to bring it up to 3,500 ppm
I have done all of the above just now and tomorrow morning I will start the PVC surgery to install all 2" piping on the pad, install CircuPool RJ-30 SWG and I even went ahead and purchased a new Hayward C1200 filter housing. Mine is very weathered and I figured why not change it now and have an ALL NEW system on my pad.
I have started using the Pool Math app and I love it! Definitely going to pay for the subscription. Makes it so much easier to keep track of everything and the suggestions are priceless, taking out all the guesswork.
What you guys think of my results above and the stuff I added today?
Now that I will have a salt water system and live in Florida weather, what should I shoot for? Just go by the ideal recommendations from Pool Math?
While I wait for my TF-100 to arrive, I took a sample of my pool water to my local mom and pops pool store and they tested it for me.
Here are the results:
CYA: 50
FC: 10+
PH: 8.2
Alkalinity: 90
Adjusted Alkalinity: 65
CH: 290
Salt: 650
They told me to add the following:
• 3 lbs of dry stabilizer to bring CYA up to 75.
• 14 ozs of liquid 31.45% muriatic acid to bring pH down to 7.6
• 9 bags of salt to bring it up to 3,500 ppm
I have done all of the above just now and tomorrow morning I will start the PVC surgery to install all 2" piping on the pad, install CircuPool RJ-30 SWG and I even went ahead and purchased a new Hayward C1200 filter housing. Mine is very weathered and I figured why not change it now and have an ALL NEW system on my pad.
I have started using the Pool Math app and I love it! Definitely going to pay for the subscription. Makes it so much easier to keep track of everything and the suggestions are priceless, taking out all the guesswork.
What you guys think of my results above and the stuff I added today?
Now that I will have a salt water system and live in Florida weather, what should I shoot for? Just go by the ideal recommendations from Pool Math?
- May 3, 2014
- 59,263
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Personally, I would not have added it until you have a proper test kit. Also, when adding CYA, salt, etc add half or two thirds, let mix for a couple days, test, then add what is necessary.
PH does not read correctly when FC is above 10. I would ignore their test results and wait until you get your kit.