I've been reading all the info on TFP for the past few months and I recently discovered the pool school ebook. I never read the information about salt since I don't use a SWG but while reading the ebook I saw that it says "For improved water feel without a SWG, try levels around 2,000." I use liquid chlorine as my sanitizer and was hoping someone could explain to me why I would use salt without a SWG. I thought one of the things at TFP was only adding necessary chemicals, so there must be some kind of benefit I'm not understanding from having just salt alone. Would adding salt to my pool have any negative impact on the pump or the robotic cleaner that I leave in the pool?
Using salt in liquid chlorine pool
- Thread starter lstabbyl
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,634
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You might be surprised what the salt level of your pool water already is. Liquid chlorine, muriatic acid, and people all add salt to the pool water.
A salinity of 1500 ppm or a bit higher gives the water a more 'silky' feel. For us, when we get out of our pool, we feel like we just took a shower, not needing one.
A salinity of 1500 ppm or a bit higher gives the water a more 'silky' feel. For us, when we get out of our pool, we feel like we just took a shower, not needing one.
Durangler
Active member
I was wondering the same thing. How much salt is added from LC and Muriatic Acid? Assume that depends on amounts.
So, would it be unreasonable to add salt to a Non-SWG pool to achieve 1500-2000 ppm?
So, would it be unreasonable to add salt to a Non-SWG pool to achieve 1500-2000 ppm?
L,
My standard response is...
When you get out of a chlorine pool, you feel like you need to take a shower.. When you get out of a saltwater pool, you feel like you just took a shower..
Thanks,
Jim R.
My standard response is...
When you get out of a chlorine pool, you feel like you need to take a shower.. When you get out of a saltwater pool, you feel like you just took a shower..
Thanks,
Jim R.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,634
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Use Effects of Adding Chemicals in Poolmath.
Durangler
Active member
So, I add one gallon LC 10% (during the summer) to my 13400 gal pool per week, that adds 16 ppm salt per week.
I need 125 g LC to get to 2000 ppm salt. That's 125 weeks to reach 2000ppm. Correct?
Would it hurt to speed the process by adding salt?
I need 125 g LC to get to 2000 ppm salt. That's 125 weeks to reach 2000ppm. Correct?
Would it hurt to speed the process by adding salt?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,634
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
If that is all the chlorine you add in the summer to your pool, you are not any where near maintaining the FC based on the FC/CYA Levels. That is about 7 ppm of FC per week to a 13400 gallon pool.
Muriatic acid also adds salt. In Peoria, you must be using acid too.
You can add more salt if you like. The smart thing to do would be to test your salinity first. And follow the FC/CYA Levels
+1. Test first with a k-1766 ($27 at tftestkits.net). Once you know where you are, you can adjust to where you'd like to be. 2k ppm is a great starting point. You can still add more but go slow from there. Most people start to taste it about 3k ppm. Not alot, but just enough to know it is salt.
Durangler
Active member
I'll be maintaining top end of recommended FC for my CYA number, for sure.
Thanks for your input on salt. Will look into the K-1766 kit.
Thanks for your input on salt. Will look into the K-1766 kit.
The only ‘waste’ there is the initial bump to the higher #. After it’s a 9 (let’s say), the daily dose of 3-4 ppm is the same. However, you will have lots of buffer to spare when things like the weather sneak up on you. It’s like learning pool care on easy mode. Or, even easier mode because TFP is pretty easy to begin with.
Ordered the K-1766 reagents and will be adding salt accordingly. Do I have to worry about corrosion in the pool? In some of the pool salt reviews I've seen people mention using a "sacrificial" zinc anode in their skimmer basket to prevent corrosion. Is this recommended / necessary?
No worries about the salt. Or the anode. Some of the reviews you’ve seen said to use a copper adding device with expensive replacement cartridges too.
If you get salt avoid the Clorox brand Walmart sells. Lot of people had staining from it. They also sell Morton in Atlanta which is good.
I just added 10 more bags to mine. Last year I kept my salt around 3000 and had a couple times when the cell would report low salt and have to add a couple more bags. I drained water out for winter and decided instead of playing the " keep it low" game again I am kicking it up to 3800
Is this mortons water softener salt from home depot good, or is that small amount of citrates and anionic surfactants a problem?
Edit: this bag isn't the right one to use
Morton Salt 40 lbs. Water Softener Salt Pellets Clean and Protect 1500 - The Home Depot
Morton Clean and Protect Water Softener Salt is formulated to prevent buildup in pipes and appliances, helping to extend their life and improve efficiency. For the many households that have hard water,
www.homedepot.com
Last edited:
- May 3, 2014
- 58,634
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Use the blue bag. Should say Pure and Natural. The yellow bag has additives you do not want.
+1. HD will have the pool kind in the garden section (smaller crystals) or the water softener kind (larger crystals takes 15 more minutes to dissolve but otherwise no different) in the plumbing aisle. Either way inspect the bags for the pure symbol/label.
I like this from Walmart. Cheapest price and works great. Challenge here is they don't keep a lot in stock so can't pickup 10 bags as easily as you can at homedepot
Robot or human?
www.walmart.com