Possible New Pool In Central FL

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ajw22 said:
How long are you expected to maintain that water chemistry? Forever?

That is fine for the first 30 day startup that you are beyond.

Maintaining that chemistry forever will not work.

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So the guidelines I posted are in their book for "after the first 30 days" and I have to submit a professional test report once a week and then once a month after 2 months.
 
Tegguy said:
So just an update as of 6:36 Eastern. I just re-did the chlorine test and got 4.5 FC and 1 CC I don't know if I screwed up the test earlier or what happened
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1 CC is flashing a yellow warning.
 
Tegguy said:
So the guidelines I posted are in their book for "after the first 30 days" and I have to submit a professional test report once a week and then once a month after 2 months.
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Good luck with that. You will consistently be told here that your FC is too low. And how do you intend to handle an algae problem when (not if) it occurs?

Have you read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
 
I'm not trying to be stubborn or stupid or anything I'm just stuck and not sure what the right answer is or if I'm just miss reading something. Here is a local pool company test that seems the follow the same requirements as the interior company except the cl is shifted by 1 but it seems off from what I'm reading.

My CC is always 0 with their test.
 

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You have a choice to make. Follow the Pool Store/Pool Builder Required Chemistry Levels or TFPC. Mixing them does not work. Coming here to TFP to discuss their recommendations, does not work. TFPC uses science to back up our recommendations.

You will find a warranty claim on a pool plaster unless egregious and early in life will be refused. You will never be able to meet their Required Levels.

I assume you have a proper test kit. You do not show what that is in your signature. Use it. Pool Stores are inherently incorrect in testing pool water chemistry.

Good luck.
 
We put no faith in pool store tests. They have been proven to not be repeatable and inaccurate compared to K2006/TF-100 testing. The pool store tests will say you are fine while problems are developing such as your CC of 1. Trust your testing for your pool care, get the store test for your warranty and file it and ignore it.

Your "interior company" is setting you and all their customers up for failure. But it is all part of their warranty game as no one can really keep their pool within those parameters. And they don't mind because it gives them an out on the warranty if they want.

Eventually you will need to decide between a probably worthless warranty or proper trouble free pool chemistry.
 
mknauss said:
You have a choice to make. Follow the Pool Store/Pool Builder Required Chemistry Levels or TFPC. Mixing them does not work. Coming here to TFP to discuss their recommendations, does not work. TFPC uses science to back up our recommendations.

You will find a warranty claim on a pool plaster unless egregious and early in life will be refused. You will never be able to meet their Required Levels.

I assume you have a proper test kit. You do not show what that is in your signature. Use it. Pool Stores are inherently incorrect in testing pool water chemistry.

Good luck.
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I'm using the TF-100 test kit for all my at home testing. I was really hoping that maybe I was just reading something wrong but really just trying to understand since this is my first pool ever. I was hoping maybe someone had some insight as to why they drastic difference in recommendation. I would agree trying to maintain this regiment would be difficult since everything seems to be difficult to maintain levels at the requested amount. Perhaps I'll at least have a conversation with my plaster company and maybe try a different testing place just as two options but I think I'll be firing up the SWG again tomorrow.

I hope I didn't throw something off by turning it off.

I do appreciate everyone's input and responses it's just a lot of information really quick and it's overwhelming when it conflicts
 
Segal's law is an adage that states:

"A man with a watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure."

Trust your test. Don't try to use the pool store to confirm your test results. If you don't trust your test, come here and ask questions about it until you do trust it.

I was in your shoes just about 1 year ago. Everyone here totally understands the overwhelming amount of information and how quickly it comes at you. Start small. Just do your tests, every day or couple of days, at first, to get familiar with it. If you are doing daily testing for the first few weeks, you will see how the numbers will go up and down and it should all start making sense. As you adjust something, like the SWCG, test again the next day and see what the effect is. It takes a while to get into a rhythm with your pool, but you will get it. I was getting into my rhythm with mine and then the fall came along and I had to learn it's new one. However, this spring, I will know what to expect and be ready and it will be easy to fall back into the summer rhythm again.

--Jeff
 
OrlandoBull said:
Are your salt levels really that low? I can't imagine they would blow the test by that much, if you are confident you have more salt than that, it definitely gives an indication that their test is bad.
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Sorry should have mentioned that test was from last week before I asked the salt
 

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ajw22 said:
We put no faith in pool store tests. They have been proven to not be repeatable and inaccurate compared to K2006/TF-100 testing. The pool store tests will say you are fine while problems are developing such as your CC of 1. Trust your testing for your pool care, get the store test for your warranty and file it and ignore it.

Your "interior company" is setting you and all their customers up for failure. But it is all part of their warranty game as no one can really keep their pool within those parameters. And they don't mind because it gives them an out on the warranty if they want.

Eventually you will need to decide between a probably worthless warranty or proper trouble free pool chemistry.
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my daughter did a science fair experiment where she took water samples to multiple pool stores.

She had 4 samples from 3 pools (one sample was repeated from the same pool). I dont remember the results exactly but as expected the pool stores had different results from each other and from the FAS-DPD test. Each pool store had wildly different results from the identical water samples.
 
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I ran the overnight chlorine drop test and I did not loose any FC and my CC was down to .5 this morning. It sounds like with these results I don't have an alge problem or anything.

I have turned on the SWG and we'll see how this goes.
 
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So I tested the chlorine today and it's up around 7-7.5 so I'm thinking the SWG is putting too much out. I'm currently running the pump for 9 hours at 2300 RPM's per day. Is it better to decrease the pump run speed/time (thinking less water through the SWG the less chlorine) or decrease the SWG?

I'm still trying to figure out how I know what the best pump speed and time is.
 
You are not updating your Poolmath logs so is your CYA still 60?
If so, your current FC is no issue. Lower your SWCG generation to 1 ppm FC per day. At this time of year, your pump run time can be based on skimming needs. Set your SWCG to generate the FC during that time frame. Test your FC every couple days and see it it goes up or down. Adjust the amount generating to balance your pool needs for FC.
 
mknauss said:
You are not updating your Poolmath logs so is your CYA still 60?
If so, your current FC is no issue. Lower your SWCG generation to 1 ppm FC per day. At this time of year, your pump run time can be based on skimming needs. Set your SWCG to generate the FC during that time frame. Test your FC every couple days and see it it goes up or down. Adjust the amount generating to balance your pool needs for FC.
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I haven't gotten into the rythm of updating the pool math log I'll try to be better at that. Yes the CYA was at 60 today. Looking at SWG/Run time excel now.

When you say skimming needs is that simply what it takes to get the leafs and debris off the surface of the pool? Sorry trying to understand the terminology
 
Yes on skimming. In your climate I would run the pump a minimum of 4 hours per day. Use Poolmath to determine how to set your SWCG to make the amount of FC you need. Effects of Adding Chemical.
 
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Sorry it's me again with yet another question.... What is the common frequency to have to add water to the pool especially during winter? We seem to be loosing water which I know is common due to evaporation and stuff I just didn't know what the common rate was.
 

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