Flow Switch to control Outlet

I also see these things but seems they would require an external 24v as input and I would prefer to reuse my existing weather protected outlet. Why plug an outlet into an outlet?


There is also this thing but it seems overkill and also since my pipes are neither 3/4 nor 1 inch, I'd have to T out to it so extra work.

This type of flow switch may even be better since it does not require it's own housing and does not require replacing with a pipe. I have a Dye and Cast set and can thread the PVC:

Anyone?

So it seems that this is all I need:

It is rated @ 0.5 A @ 120 VAC. The pump requires 0.17A. I would just intercept the current when there is no flow. It is also waterproof and uses a magnetic switch so there is no danger of current going through the water. I ordered hopefully all is good.

So here it is. My brain dump from my mobile...

Larger than I though but it will be sturdy for sure. I have some 2.5 inch plumbing so I'll put it there. But I'll still need to trim the vane or else it would touch the bottom. Ill try to fit it in a spare pipe that I have to get an accurate measurement. It has a sticker with markings on the vane, a to o and the manual has flow rates related to them. Not sure I understand it all yet as I assumed that the further we are from a, the more GPMs it would require to trigger. But regardless, it's gonna work . I'll need to be precise however to reach the bottom of the pipe without touching it. I'll go through the edge of a coupling to have more threaded thickness grasping it (coupling + pipe) as I did with my Econ setup. I just ordered a 1/2 NPT tap since I did not have that size.

Btw, I can move the vane by just blowing at it, not too hard. It should activate with low flow as long as I make sure it is deep enough to catch my typical low flow GPMs.

I'll also test it to interrupt the outlet of the Econ before doing anything else (pipe drilling) just to be sure it will work on the electrical side.

I'll post more once it's done.

Hey laprjns,
Thanks for the idea which definitely seems like an good option for certain setups but I'm not sure it would work for me. Or maybe too complicated for me.

My pump, Pentair, is controlled by an Easytouch. The pump is always powered regardless if it is running or not. The easytouch is also always powered of course. It would be tricky for me to figure out when the pump is actually running by detecting just current. Also, even when pumps are controlled by simple timers, what happens when the pump can't prime for example? I feel that the water flow itself is the single source of truth especially for such a dangerous chemical. Or am I missing something?

So, here is my update.
The flow switch that I originally purchased, the Dwyer V10 above did not work for me for 2 reasons.
- It was defective. While dry testing it, once you flip it on, it remains ON and never shuts off. I'm returning it.
- I did not like the idea that it had only 18 GA cable and only rated for 0.5 A even though the pump only requires 0.15 A. After all, I want to control the 15 A outlet and someone can plug a > 0.5 A device and cause an issue.

So, I looked a little more and found this which works @ 125 VAC @ 15 A:

Here is the install and it works perfectly:
Made a thread using a 1/2 inch NPT tap into a 2.5 inch coupling outbound from the filter to ensure there will be flow going to the MA injection point. Ran two 14 GA wires to interrupt the current to the outlet from the breaker. Protected them with flex conduit.


Here is how the outlet is controlled:

Tested at my lowest pump RPMs of 1100 and works for the 2.5 inch pipe where I put the switch. The Stenner pump now only runs when there is flow! (which for me should be 24/7 @ 99% of the time).

In summary, it cost me 31.59 + some 14 GA wire and flex conduit which I already had. I think you can also find the device cheaper than 31. I also had to buy the tap which was like 10$. But that's reusable of course.

Allen