Flow Switch to control Outlet

[AllenA]

Hi All,
I want to prevent my Stenner pump (for MA) from ever running when there is no flow. I read this thread but I want to do it differently if possible and hopefully simpler.

Controlling Stenner with a Flow Switch?

I have a Stenner Econ T for Chlorine injection that I want to control with a flow switch. i am concidering using the following switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MR8371I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but I haven’t been able to locate any specs on the switch. The Stenner...

www.troublefreepool.com

I am thinking of using a relay to open/close the outlet's cricuit where the pump is plugged. I found this particular relay which powers itself from the 110 V side to the 24v input. (Based on the single review, seems to be the way I would need it to open/close):

Functional Devices Inc / Rib CLC212 $26.39 Closet Light Controller, Door, Gray, 120VAC | Zoro.com

Order Functional Devices Inc / Rib Closet Light Controller, Door, Gray, 120VAC, CLC212 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.

www.zoro.com

This would be the flow switch (same as in the above thread):

Amazon.com: BLUE WORKS Flow Switch Compatible with Hayward Goldline Systems, Flow Sensor with Tee: Garden & Outdoor

Amazon.com: BLUE WORKS Flow Switch Compatible with Hayward Goldline Systems, Flow Sensor with Tee: Garden & Outdoor

www.amazon.com

Did anyone attempt to do it this way? Or is there a simpler way?

Any guidance is appreciated.
Allen

 

[AllenA]

I also see these things but seems they would require an external 24v as input and I would prefer to reuse my existing weather protected outlet. Why plug an outlet into an outlet?

Xantech AC1 Controlled AC Outlet

The AC1 is a control voltage switched outlet. It can be used for AC power management with the control output of any low voltage DC source (5-30VDC).

www.markertek.com

Agrowtek Single Relay Controlled Outlet

Buy the Agrowtek Single Relay Controlled Outlet at Hydrobuilder.com. Shop the entire line of Agrowtek products along with thousands of hydroponics supplies on sale now.

hydrobuilder.com

There is also this thing but it seems overkill and also since my pipes are neither 3/4 nor 1 inch, I'd have to T out to it so extra work.

NO GLITCH Flow Switch 3/4" or 1" 120 Volt, 4 Outlets (2 switched, 2 constant) (3/4") - - Amazon.com

NO GLITCH Flow Switch 3/4" or 1" 120 Volt, 4 Outlets (2 switched, 2 constant) (3/4") - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

 

[AllenA]

This type of flow switch may even be better since it does not require it's own housing and does not require replacing with a pipe. I have a Dye and Cast set and can thread the PVC:

Dwyer Flotect Series V10 Mini-Size Flow Switch, Brass Housing, Normally Open or Closed, Pressure Range 0-1000 psig, 1/2'' Male NPT: Industrial Flow Switches: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Dwyer Flotect Series V10 Mini-Size Flow Switch, Brass Housing, Normally Open or Closed, Pressure Range 0-1000 psig, 1/2'' Male NPT: Industrial Flow Switches: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

 

[AllenA]

Anyone?

 

[AllenA]

So it seems that this is all I need:

Dwyer Flotect Series V10 Mini-Size Flow Switch, Brass Housing, Normally Open or Closed, Pressure Range 0-1000 psig, 1/2'' Male NPT: Industrial Flow Switches: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Dwyer Flotect Series V10 Mini-Size Flow Switch, Brass Housing, Normally Open or Closed, Pressure Range 0-1000 psig, 1/2'' Male NPT: Industrial Flow Switches: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

It is rated @ 0.5 A @ 120 VAC. The pump requires 0.17A. I would just intercept the current when there is no flow. It is also waterproof and uses a magnetic switch so there is no danger of current going through the water. I ordered hopefully all is good.

 

[AllenA]

So here it is. My brain dump from my mobile...

Larger than I though but it will be sturdy for sure. I have some 2.5 inch plumbing so I'll put it there. But I'll still need to trim the vane or else it would touch the bottom. Ill try to fit it in a spare pipe that I have to get an accurate measurement. It has a sticker with markings on the vane, a to o and the manual has flow rates related to them. Not sure I understand it all yet as I assumed that the further we are from a, the more GPMs it would require to trigger. But regardless, it's gonna work . I'll need to be precise however to reach the bottom of the pipe without touching it. I'll go through the edge of a coupling to have more threaded thickness grasping it (coupling + pipe) as I did with my Econ setup. I just ordered a 1/2 NPT tap since I did not have that size.

Btw, I can move the vane by just blowing at it, not too hard. It should activate with low flow as long as I make sure it is deep enough to catch my typical low flow GPMs.

I'll also test it to interrupt the outlet of the Econ before doing anything else (pipe drilling) just to be sure it will work on the electrical side.

I'll post more once it's done.

 

[laprjns]

Maybe a current sensing relay instead of a flow switch. I use this current sensing device, (CR4395-EH-120-110-X-CD-ELR-I) to control the power to my SWCG. It senses current on one of the pump's 220v lines and switches 120V to my SWCG. When the pump isn't turning there is no power to the SWCG. Current trip point is adjustable. If you don't have 120 available there is a version that can switch 220V (see the second page of the above link). Its a device used in industrial application for motor control and monitoring. Just need to mount it in a box (weatherproof if install is outdoors), make some twist nut connections along with crimping four disconnect terminals.

 

[AllenA]

Hey laprjns,
Thanks for the idea which definitely seems like an good option for certain setups but I'm not sure it would work for me. Or maybe too complicated for me.

My pump, Pentair, is controlled by an Easytouch. The pump is always powered regardless if it is running or not. The easytouch is also always powered of course. It would be tricky for me to figure out when the pump is actually running by detecting just current. Also, even when pumps are controlled by simple timers, what happens when the pump can't prime for example? I feel that the water flow itself is the single source of truth especially for such a dangerous chemical. Or am I missing something?

 

[AllenA]

So, here is my update.
The flow switch that I originally purchased, the Dwyer V10 above did not work for me for 2 reasons.
- It was defective. While dry testing it, once you flip it on, it remains ON and never shuts off. I'm returning it.
- I did not like the idea that it had only 18 GA cable and only rated for 0.5 A even though the pump only requires 0.15 A. After all, I want to control the 15 A outlet and someone can plug a > 0.5 A device and cause an issue.

So, I looked a little more and found this which works @ 125 VAC @ 15 A:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QHXQX5H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the install and it works perfectly:
Made a thread using a 1/2 inch NPT tap into a 2.5 inch coupling outbound from the filter to ensure there will be flow going to the MA injection point. Ran two 14 GA wires to interrupt the current to the outlet from the breaker. Protected them with flex conduit.


Here is how the outlet is controlled:

Tested at my lowest pump RPMs of 1100 and works for the 2.5 inch pipe where I put the switch. The Stenner pump now only runs when there is flow! (which for me should be 24/7 @ 99% of the time).

In summary, it cost me 31.59 + some 14 GA wire and flex conduit which I already had. I think you can also find the device cheaper than 31. I also had to buy the tap which was like 10$. But that's reusable of course.

Allen