Using a lot of bleach for SLAM

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You do not want to add ammonia. That is what is consuming your chlorine.

Pool stores use 'Green to Clean' and other potions. Some are ammonia based, others sodium bromide based, You want neither of those things in your pool.

The most likely outcome from a pool store will be to charge you XXX amount and then when it does not work blame it on "TDS" and you need to drain your pool.
 
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Jay, I'd encourage you to heed Marty's last couple posts/recommendations. The spiked CCs indicate ammonia. You do not want to add anything else to the water right now other than regular bleach. If you're using Bravo, that's fine, but you have to stick with it. No stabilizer until after the ammonia issue is resolved. Removing ammonia or algae is no overnight process. No pool store snake oil will do the trick. Chlorine (regular bleach), administered in the proper amount consistently is your best weapon. When you're ready to pull the trigger and stick with the process, post back and let us know how things are going. Lots of folks here ready to help.

Later, don't forget to update your signature to include which test kit you are using.
 
mknauss said:
You do not want to add ammonia. That is what is consuming your chlorine.

Pool stores use 'Green to Clean' and other potions. Some are ammonia based, others sodium bromide based, You want neither of those things in your pool.

The most likely outcome from a pool store will be to charge you XXX amount and then when it does not work blame it on "TDS" and you need to drain your pool.
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Sorry, I read your post as you were recommending I add more ammonia. My apologies.
 
Texas Splash said:
Jay, I'd encourage you to heed Marty's last couple posts/recommendations. The spiked CCs indicate ammonia. You do not want to add anything else to the water right now other than regular bleach. If you're using Bravo, that's fine, but you have to stick with it. No stabilizer until after the ammonia issue is resolved. Removing ammonia or algae is no overnight process. No pool store snake oil will do the trick. Chlorine (regular bleach), administered in the proper amount consistently is your best weapon. When you're ready to pull the trigger and stick with the process, post back and let us know how things are going. Lots of folks here ready to help.

Later, don't forget to update your signature to include which test kit you are using.
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Thank you.
 
I have two more items to clarify:

1. A few members recommended not adding stabilizer. Therefore, will adding chlorine as per the SLAM method help with the ammonia issue? Once FC is at the desired level and not dropping significantly with subsequent tests during the process, should I then add CYA?

2. I read the stickies regarding SLAM, but couldn’t seem to find definitive info on what to do about the green walls and floor of the pool. I k to brush the pool surfaces, but should I also vacuum as there are leaves and fine green debris on the bottom. Thanks!
 
1. Do not add stabilizer until you are able to hold FC at least close to SLAM level after 15 minutes of circulating. The process was described above. Once it holds, add stabilizer to reach at least 30 to 40 ppm.

2. You need to brush often. If there is a lot of algae you can vac to waste, if you have that option. A signature showing your equipment would really help us help you. You must remove all the solid debris, leaves, etc, you can as they are organic material and your chlorine will be expended breaking them down. If it can be removed, remove it.
 
mknauss said:
1. Do not add stabilizer until you are able to hold FC at least close to SLAM level after 15 minutes of circulating. The process was described above. Once it holds, add stabilizer to reach at least 30 to 40 ppm.

2. You need to brush often. If there is a lot of algae you can vac to waste, if you have that option. A signature showing your equipment would really help us help you. You must remove all the solid debris, leaves, etc, you can as they are organic material and your chlorine will be expended breaking them down. If it can be removed, remove it.
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Thanks!
 
Hey TFP, I wanted to give an update on the resurrection of my pool. So I haven’t had a chance to SLAM it as are in Oak tree shedding season in Texas and every spare second is trying to get on top of the leaf situation.

Anyway, I tried tackled the leaves today and it’s beyond insane. The water is so green/cloudy (in appearance in the pool, not when I pull water into a container) that I cannot see the bottom, even in the shallow end. Anyway, I believe I need to get all the leaves out before I SLAM the pool. Is this whole situation detrimental to my pump? I am feeling overwhelmed as the trees are shedding constantly and it feels like a never ending battle.

Any other tips or tricks for the leaf issue? Thank you!
 

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Jayzeem83 said:
I believe I need to get all the leaves out before I SLAM the pool.
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No doubt! You need to physically remove as much debris as you can before implementing the SLAM. The chlorine (bleach) can only do so much. The less debris in the pool, the quicker the SLAM will go. As for your pump, as long as it doesn't suck-in something hard, stringy, or anything else that could damage or clog it up, you should be fine. But you'll have to monitor the entire system (i.e. filter psi) during the early SLAM closely. Everything in our area is taking off with the sun and warmer weather, but we have to stay on it. I'm assuming you're using a skimmer sock right?
 
You can use calcium hyopchlorite if your calcium hardness isn't too high. Easier to put lots of chlorine in all at once and cheaper BUT you are adding hardness to the water each time. Not a problem, unless you use it for years... then hardness can start to become a problem. But while you are slamming the pool, it can be a better way.

Just make sure you always add the powder to water, never water to the powder and mix it up really well in a five gallon bucket until the powder is disolved fully.

How are you getting your test results? Pool store? Those testing strips? A TF-100 test kit?
 
Stick with it! To summarize, get junk out of pool, follow SLAM process exactly. Only deviation is to test and re-dose in rapid succession (15 min. max) until your FC holds for longer periods of time.

Can you please add a signature as requested earlier? It will help all of us immensely to be able to see your pool specs at a glance on each post. Use Marty or my signatures as examples. If on a computer, just click your Login name at the top right of the screen and then hit "Signature". If using via a mobile device, click the three horizontal lines at the top left, then click on your Login name, then click Your Account, then click Signature.

Thank you.
 
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