Replacing Intermatic PB914N66 timer with digital

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C

colesdaddy

0
May 4, 2017
12
Herald, CA
Hello everyone,

First off, I'm not much of an electrical genius. I can make my way around a 12v car system and replace household fixtures etc. That's my disclaimer.

After the latest mechanical timer switch failure on my 2hp pump, I took it upon myself to replace the switch with the digital version, PB314E, 16 amp resistive, 8 FLA (.5 hp), 240 VAC, 50-60 HZ. I hooked it up last night and nothing. Timer came on (it has a battery), set the time and program, nothing. The ON light comes on, but the pump does nothing. The timer is in two timer panel (pump/booster). If I flip the manual switch, the pump works fine. I don't know where I'm going wrong. Do I have the right switch? Does the FLA make a difference? The have another switch that has a 2hp FLA rating.
 
Dad,

Welcome to TFP.. a great place to find the answers to all of your "genius" pool maintenance questions... :shark:

There are a ton of Intermatic devices, so I am not sure I am looking at the one you have for sure... but, the one I am looking at will not drive a 2 HP pump.. It was designed to turn on a larger relay (contactor) that in turn drives the pump.

A couple of pics might help us understand exactly what you have..

I am "assuming" that the device that you installed takes the place the clock and dial in a standard timer box, and when you say you manually turn on the system, you are turning the mechanical by-pass that was left over from the original box.. Is this true?

I am surprised that it did not burn up the timer the instant it tried to turn on the pump... :confused: But then again, I may be looking at the wrong one.

Please post a pic or two so that we can be sure that we are comparing apples to apples..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Well,

I would have used the PB374E, as it is rated for a 2 HP motor while the PB314E is only rated for a .5 HP motor.

When you initially turned it on, unless you heard a noise, or arching, or something, I am not sure that is the whole problem.

Can you describe how the new timer is wired, or post a pic showing the wiring of the new timer.

As you pointed out it is a pretty simple device.. For timer operation, the little black bar in the LCD should be above the "AUTO" label. When the black bar is above the "On" label, it should be on and act the same way as the manual toggle switch.

I suspect it is just not wired correctly...

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
We need to see pics of the back wiring of the old and new timer. Need to see where the wires go behind the middle mounting plate.

I am surprised a SPDT timer switch is being used to control a 220V pump. Usually a DPST switch is used so both loads are switched.
 

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In theory, you never want to shut off just one leg of a 220 volt circuit, because it leaves the other leg hot. Someone might think that the pump wiring is off when the pump is off but that would not be true...

That said, it appears that is what you have been doing all along, so to get a one to one replacement for your old timers, I would use the 2 HP model.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
That makes sense to me.

So if I understand correctly, from the two pole breaker there is a constant hot line running to the pump and another hot line to the switch I'm screwing around with, which sends the other hot line when the switch closes.
 
colesdaddy said:
That makes sense to me.

So if I understand correctly, from the two pole breaker there is a constant hot line running to the pump and another hot line to the switch I'm screwing around with, which sends the other hot line when the switch closes.
Click to expand...


Correct... It does not appear to me that they make a replacement timer for your specific panel that has a double pole (2 hot leads) input... So using the 20 amp switch is the next best thing..

Jim R.
 
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