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normdunkin

normdunkin

0
Gold Supporter
Mar 19, 2018
11
Peachtree City, GA
How I got here.
I recently fired my pool service company. They jacked their prices so high and at the same time, my filter pressure gauge was screaming, "Clean Me!!!". I pulled the cartridges and they were caked with slug. So, I found TPF and decided, "I can do this."

My problem is sky high CYA.

March 14 had Leslie test water - they said it all looks good
FC 2, TAC 2, CH 200, CYA 60, TA 80, ph 7.5

March 19 my pool service folks came for the last time. I don't know what they did.

March 22 my first water test with my new TF100 and pool math calculator app
FC 3.5, CC .5, ph 7.5, TA 70, CH 250, CYA 105

I decided to see what Leslie's had to say, and to verify my testing

March 22 Leslies, 3 hours later
FC 2.5, TAC 2.5, CH 200, CYA 105, TA 90, ph 7.5

Our readings were almost identical.

March 23 my TF100 readings
FC 3, CC 0, ph 7.5, TA 70, CH 250, CYA 105

From everything I have learned on TPF, my CYA levels are over the top, most likely due to my service guy sticking it to me on his last visit or just incompetence :scratch:

So, do I need to do a partial pool drain? Should I go ahead and add bleach since my FC needs to be 8.0 to 14 for a CYA of 105 or drain/refill and retest before adding bleach?

Looking forward to hearing what you guys recommend.

P.S. another quick question. I have 4 new chlorine tabs in my Pool Frog. I want to go to only bleach. Should I go ahead and remove these tabs or when I start adding bleach?

Here is a shot of my gift to the grandkids.

Grandkids gift.jpg
A
 
I can tell you one thing you are at the right place for answers . I just went through what you are going through myself. I fired 2 "pool guys" last sept, and did not find TFP untill nov, , i made a few errors Duh listening to pool store guys. First thing yes cya is high and second yes you can take out tabs now and add chlorine. I do have one bit to add i lowered my cya in jan 50% drain , but now i found funds to go swg, so im raising cya back up errr. i still would have drained some but not 50%. If you plan on salt pool BTW most everyone here loves for the best reason not having to add liquid chlorine every day now is the time your grandkids will love it. Read read read here is all the best free information and correct too. im sure you will here from others too.
 
Norm,

The CYA test stops at 100, so it may be 105 or it may be higher... I suggest you do the diluted CYA test just to make sure.. See this link, step 8... Pool School - CYA

Once you know your CYA for sure, you will need to drain enough water to get your CYA down to about 40..

Thanks for posting.. Really nice looking pool and view...

Jim R.
 
Welcome to the forum:wave:

Except for your high CYA, those are pretty good numbers. Yes, bring your FC up to match the FC/CYA chart in pool school.

Take out the tabs....you can save them for later.

While you should really drain and refill about 13k of water to get that CYA in line, I am going to suggest you drain and refill about 5k to get your CYA down around 80. Then, Spring rains in GA and natural decline of CYA (5-10 ppm monthly) should have you into the swim season at about 50-60 ppm CYA which is ideal.

Keep your FC right in line with FC/CYA chart as your CYA slowly reduces.

Please read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School
 
I only use the tabs at the start of the season - after I have confirmed via testing that my CYA is low (below 50).

I'll use the tabs until it tests about 60, then switch to liquid chlorine. If we're going to be gone a few days, I'll put some tabs in the floater while we're gone, then take them out when we return.

I'm just an end user and don't know much, but everything I've seen would suggest that your high CYA is a result of using tabs. The only way I've heard of to lower it is a partial drain.
 
Go ahead and remove the pucks-they are only adding more CYA. You can use PoolMath (button above) to see how much water you should drain. I would drain some water first, otherwise you are going to be using a ton of bleach. One thing-the TF-100 CYA view tube only goes up to 100, you have 105. I want to make sure your CYA is not higher than you think it is. Your pool is stunning by the way!
 
Thanks to everyone for their replies. After 2 and a half days the pool is drained about halfway. I am in the process of filling it and that should take a few more days. I would like some advice on where to go from here. I have looked at pool school and I feel like I have a decent grasp on the chemicals. I guess time will prove that. I am hoping that my CYA will be around 50 or so once it is all full. Should I add the chemicals one at a time starting with the bleach and just put all of it in, whatever the pool calculator tool tells me to do and then work on the pH and such if it is off after the FC stabilizes?

Also, I pulled the trichlor tabs out right away. I tested FC and it dropped pretty quick to 1.5.

Also, for all the comments on SWG, I am hearing more and more from you folks and friends about the beauty of it. Once I get through all of this I might look into it.

I sure appreciate everyone on this site. It has been a blessing know y'all are there to help.

Norm
 
Test your CYA first, and if it's around 50 like you hope, add enough liquid chlorine or bleach to bring your FC up to 8. Then, check the pH. Since you won't be using any more solid forms of chlorine, which are acidic, your pH will tend to climb more rapidly. You will have to dose it with muriatic acid (MA) to keep it in line. I usually dose mine down to 7.4 and when it climbs near 7.8, I knock it back down with MA.

Give us a full set of test results and we can give you even more specific advice.
 

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It took 24 hours to fill the pool. My new readings are:
FC 1
CC 0
pH 7.5
CH 150
CYA 55

Looks like the pool drain fixed my CYA problem

My plan is to do what the pool calculator says.
Add two 121 oz bottles of 8.05% bleach
Add 15 lbs Baking soda, 4 lbs at a time and wait to see how it looks
29 lbs calcium chloride, 10 lbs at a time and wait and see how it looks

If anyone sees anything wrong with this plan, please Lat me know.

Norm
 
I don't see a new TA test. With your pH at 7.5, I would leave the TA alone, unless it's under 50. No baking soda. With those bubblers and descents, your pH and TA will go up on their own. Then you can just knock them back down with muriatic acid (MA). Also, call your CYA 60 and adjust your chlorine as per the CYA/chlorine chart for CYA 60. There is no in between degradation on the CYA block. If it's in the middle between two numbers, always round up to the higher number. You calcium plan is very sound. A little at a time so you don't overshoot. It's easy to add, but a pain to remove.
 
Okay, well 40 is a little too low, so I would try to bring it up to 60-70 and stop there. If you go any higher, you'll be giving the pH reason to climb faster. I keep mine at around 70 and I found that in the spring and summer time it still tends to go up over time (as well as my pH). Then when I dose with MA, everything comes right back into range. I usually add around 36 oz of MA every two weeks or so.
 
Four weeks after draing half my pool to get CYA down, everything is perfect and all I am doing now is adding bleach to maintain FC. I gradually added my chemicals and took my time. I will do full chem tests weekly and chlorine and pH daily.

I am am so glad I found TFP. Saved me lots of headaches and money.
 
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