Recent content by nobody291

I have a 3HP VS pump, that mostly runs at a very low RPM for my SWG to work...it goes to higher RPMs for solar heating, skimming, etc a few hours a day. I have always used the 25% pressure rise as the trigger to backwash, and actually cleaned the filter annually. My last filter...

Yesterday, I did the spring cleaning of my DE filter. Most of the time I do it, I seem to find one panel that needs replacement. Normally that has been because the fitting that connects to the water supply manifold was broken/cracked. I was surprised yesterday that four of the panels had a...

This might be obvious and I've never done an RO treatment, but it would be nice to sharp-shoot it so that you still have the "right" amount of CYA and/or CH in the water when it finishes. You'll want at least a CYA of 30 and CH of 250. If either goes below, you'll want/need to increase them...

You're on the path to sanity by finding TFP...welcome! For now, just focus on keeping chlorine in the water...between the algae, other organics that might be there, and the intense sun, it might be challenging. But, you should be able to make it to the 26th when you can test using your test...

I'll add a few things to the good advice above... The ranges of levels provided try to address most circumstances, which you should fine tune to your situation. For calcium, I think it's best to be near the minimum (which can be as low as 250 on the recommended levels page). As it gets higher...

That is about as fresh as liquid chlorine gets. As long as you can verify your testing supplies are providing accurate results as discussed above, I would roll right into a SLAM. It might take a lot of chlorine at first and will require frequent testing, but it will only get worse if nothing...

Negative CSI isn't a concern in a fiberglass pool, it is only a concern in plaster-based pools since a negative CSI can leech calcium from the pool plaster and weaken it. Positive CSI is a concern in all pools since it can lead to calcium scaling and other problems. Depending on it's...

I would try adding another gallon or two of chlorine with your pump running, and test after 20 mins or so and see how that turns out. It should show some chlorine and will determine whether the chemicals you are using for testing are good. If that shows chlorine, then you have something...

When I've had DE entering the pool like that, it's always been a cracked filter grid. Take the filter apart and check for grid cracking, especially around the round plumbing fitting that snaps into place at the bottom of the filter. If they all look good, then post back here and someone will...

You can do this, but using stabilized chlorine tablets will add CYA to the water that will not leave quickly. If you do this long term, your CYA will rise to the point that you'll struggle to keep your water sanitized. When you add chlorine (whether it is stabilized or unstabilized), the CYA...

Beautiful pool, serenity is the right word! I bought my new-to-me house with a pool 6 years ago, and it took me 2 years to finally come around to the TFP way. So, you're ahead of my progress. Learning to maintain a pool is a process...I'm still learning from this site all the time. Do your...

You're going to need more liquid chlorine very soon...with FC at 0, algae will grow quickly. 2 gallons of liquid chlorine will add 10ppm of FC, but it will start to drop quickly, so you'll need to continue testing and adding more based on those tests. Yes, make sure to follow the instructions...

You wouldn't want to go much higher than this. Your SLAM chlorine level would be 24ppm. The CYA will slowly drop over the coming months and eventually you would need to add more. If you have pucks left over, they can be good for trips when you'll be away for a few days. Using them every once...