Recent content by Mutley

If you’re prepared for a little DIY. AqualinkD will do all the integration with HA, WiFi and a lot more.

You use the Aux_?? circuit to control the JVA. From your message above it looks like you were going to use Aux_4 circuit, so look for the Aux_4 button on what ever Jandy interface device you are using.

Personally I’d check your RS485 devices and connections. The Jandy protocol (unlike the Pentair protocol) has no way to determine if a frame (ie the message the panel sends / receives from a device) is out of order / sequence. So any frame that comes in out of sequence because the device had...

I’m a little confused. The Links you posted confirm that statement. Different light types are supported in different revisions of the jandy control panel. Either way, the OP got his answer. They needs Rev T.02 to support Intellibrite color lights.

Over the years Jandy have added different types of color lights. The list I posted listed the revisions where the different types of lights are supported up to the specific light OP was after. As you can see from the link you posted. Jandy Color lights came in MMM. Rev L was SAm/SAL Lights...

Above post @ycolasan has correct version information. For anyone wanting more details, below is what I have come across. Rev MMM - JandyColor Rev H - Haywood ColorLogic Rev O.1 - Jandy Watercolors. Rev T.0.1 has limited support for some early Intelibtight. Rev T.2 has full Intelibright. So...

You have a variety of ways to achieve automation. If you are looking for some pre manufactured pool control panel to manage the equipment then Pentair & Jandy are the main ones. Both of their systems will control the equipment well, but good integration into a home automation hub is terrible...

If you have a local keypad like Allbutton / One Touch / AqualinkTouch then turn off Aqualink app, and try changing the light from that keypad. If that doesn’t work then disconnect the iAqualink from RS bus and try again. As for why network latency can cause RS problems, without going into too...

The pulses come from the jandy panel itself, and not the app. The jandy panel simply runs through (or loops over) a cycle of tasks, and if one of those tasks slows down the cycle, then by the time it get’s to the next on/off pulse, the light can time out. I came across this recently where...

Jandy doesn’t offer this functionality. You can add something like the below that will give you that functionality and a lot more. https://github.com/sfeakes/AqualinkD If you have home assistant running, then their is also an integration from iAqualink to Home Assistant, and you should also be...

AqualinkD is a great option with far more features than iAqualink, but it sounds like you have more of a hardware issue, and it won’t help that. (And more than lightly neither will the iAqualink upgrade board). Your keypad (indoor controller) get’s power and data over 4 wires from the outside...

Have you checked the cell is actually generating chlorine? It’s been my experience with the Hayward cells that once they are EOL they read way out (very high or low) and need to be replaced since they are not actually generating.

Jandy protocol supports 4 VSP ID's, while Pentair protocol supports 16 ID's. Both Jandy and Pentair controllers can read / write each others protocols and for the most part the different protocols don't clash being on the same 485 bus. IE, a Pentair controller can control a Jandy Salt Water...

if jandy control panel, the below will do it. Or are you looking to remove / replace the control panel altogether? https://github.com/sfeakes/AqualinkD Edit after the two posts below. If you continue to use a Jandy/Pentair etc control panel and only use home automation that interfaces to that...

If you do go with Aqualink and are happy to do a bit of DIY, then this software will do Apple Siri & Homekit integration and overcome all the flaws grottoguy pointed out. It runs on a $10 Raspberry Pi zero. GitHub - sfeakes/AqualinkD: Daemon to control Jandy Aqua Link RS pool equipment from any...