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looks like your board has the connection, it’s just doesn’t have the connection block soldered. Look on your board, at one of the edges you have 4 blank holes labeled Red Blk Yel Gn. That’s the RS485 connection. I’d try soldering a connection block to that and see if it works. The connector you...

AqualinkD is an open source alternative (but does require some knowledge/diy).

If you’re prepared for a little DIY. AqualinkD will do all the integration with HA, WiFi and a lot more.

You use the Aux_?? circuit to control the JVA. From your message above it looks like you were going to use Aux_4 circuit, so look for the Aux_4 button on what ever Jandy interface device you are using.

Personally I’d check your RS485 devices and connections. The Jandy protocol (unlike the Pentair protocol) has no way to determine if a frame (ie the message the panel sends / receives from a device) is out of order / sequence. So any frame that comes in out of sequence because the device had...

I’m a little confused. The Links you posted confirm that statement. Different light types are supported in different revisions of the jandy control panel. Either way, the OP got his answer. They needs Rev T.02 to support Intellibrite color lights.

Over the years Jandy have added different types of color lights. The list I posted listed the revisions where the different types of lights are supported up to the specific light OP was after. As you can see from the link you posted. Jandy Color lights came in MMM. Rev L was SAm/SAL Lights...

Above post @ycolasan has correct version information. For anyone wanting more details, below is what I have come across. Rev MMM - JandyColor Rev H - Haywood ColorLogic Rev O.1 - Jandy Watercolors. Rev T.0.1 has limited support for some early Intelibtight. Rev T.2 has full Intelibright. So...

You have a variety of ways to achieve automation. If you are looking for some pre manufactured pool control panel to manage the equipment then Pentair & Jandy are the main ones. Both of their systems will control the equipment well, but good integration into a home automation hub is terrible...

If you have a local keypad like Allbutton / One Touch / AqualinkTouch then turn off Aqualink app, and try changing the light from that keypad. If that doesn’t work then disconnect the iAqualink from RS bus and try again. As for why network latency can cause RS problems, without going into too...

The pulses come from the jandy panel itself, and not the app. The jandy panel simply runs through (or loops over) a cycle of tasks, and if one of those tasks slows down the cycle, then by the time it get’s to the next on/off pulse, the light can time out. I came across this recently where...

Jandy doesn’t offer this functionality. You can add something like the below that will give you that functionality and a lot more. https://github.com/sfeakes/AqualinkD If you have home assistant running, then their is also an integration from iAqualink to Home Assistant, and you should also be...

AqualinkD is a great option with far more features than iAqualink, but it sounds like you have more of a hardware issue, and it won’t help that. (And more than lightly neither will the iAqualink upgrade board). Your keypad (indoor controller) get’s power and data over 4 wires from the outside...

Have you checked the cell is actually generating chlorine? It’s been my experience with the Hayward cells that once they are EOL they read way out (very high or low) and need to be replaced since they are not actually generating.

Jandy protocol supports 4 VSP ID's, while Pentair protocol supports 16 ID's. Both Jandy and Pentair controllers can read / write each others protocols and for the most part the different protocols don't clash being on the same 485 bus. IE, a Pentair controller can control a Jandy Salt Water...

if jandy control panel, the below will do it. Or are you looking to remove / replace the control panel altogether? https://github.com/sfeakes/AqualinkD Edit after the two posts below. If you continue to use a Jandy/Pentair etc control panel and only use home automation that interfaces to that...

If you do go with Aqualink and are happy to do a bit of DIY, then this software will do Apple Siri & Homekit integration and overcome all the flaws grottoguy pointed out. It runs on a $10 Raspberry Pi zero. GitHub - sfeakes/AqualinkD: Daemon to control Jandy Aqua Link RS pool equipment from any...

Yes, there is a 4 post connection on the control board on the AquaRite, that’s the RS485 bus. Well there is on mine anyway.

If you do change out to Hayward AquaRite and keep the Jandy Aqualink control panel, depending on version or Aqualink control panel it won't control the SWG. But this device will make that connection for you. Chlorinator Translator

You can re-calibrate the SWG. Clean cell, Get an accurate reading using a decent test kit, re-calibrate the SWG with your reading, leave it a few days to soft it self out. Should be back to normal. Ignoring the reading for at least a day is critical, I made that mistake re resetting mine, it's...

If AquaTrol is the same as AquaRite then yes you can. But it can't be done with a simple RS-485 to WiFi module. The RS-485 interface needs to takes control of the AquaRite and needs to send and retrieve commands every few milliseconds. So you need a computer with RS-485 interface that you...

I think a automatic relay is the safest unobtrusive option. You need to be able to put the control panel into service mode, (ie stop any automation or timed events), and you simply can't do that outside of pressing the physical "service button". I know the Aqualink RS485 protocol fairly well...

No that’s not normal. We have the same finish and ours didn’t turn a different color. It still looks the same color after 6 months as it did when we first put water in it.

Hose length & type are crucial. Since you used the terms leader and feeder I'm assuming you got the right hoses types & lengths for those parts. The more flexible one needs to be around the depth of the pool and connected to the cleaner, the stiffer one need to take up the remaining length so...

I believe Jandy doesn't recommend using a plumbed bypass for the JXi. My pool guy warned against it, and Jandy documentation I found confirm it. Maybe due to SWG?, but both said that stale water will decrease the lifespan of the element. The Versaflo (or built in one) isn't a traditional...

Probably too late, but I just had a similar issue so posting for anyone else. The Hayward Color Logic lights have 4 operating modes. The operating modes are to match other light equipment, so each operating mode has a different light show. You'll probably find that they are set to different...

I’ve done a bit work with different ESP versions. It will work easily, but I’d recommend an on timer rather than on off switch. Ie turn it on from a web page, the ESP will turn on, then turn off after X minutes, rather than wait for the off command. If you want it on for more than the X time...

Anything is only air tight to a particular pressure, go over that pressure and it’s no longer air tight as it will escape at the weakest point. The pressure of the system running is very low compared to the pressure spike when then the pump stops abruptly. You only get a vacuum leak when the...

Not the same solution as this, but I wrote some software that will do the above and a lot more. Just put it on a raspberry pi add a usb2rs485 adapter and you can control it from its web interface or any home automation system you want. https://github.com/sfeakes/aqualinkd $25 in parts is all...

As others said, your main problem will be feeding pool water back into your house supply should something go wrong. I would *think* it would be against most regulations even with the mandated back flow preventor that you need on all outside faucets.