Recent content by Miniguy77

Thanks. I think I’ll let the pucks bump the CYA up to 40.

What was your CYA before and after?

Yeah I thought about the pucks but it’s difficult to know how much FC is added versus time since Pool Math only gives the total FC added at once. So there’s the risk of FC falling below target. How about belt and suspenders: bring the FC to 10 and put 5-6 pucks in a floater. On return remove...

I’ll be away from the pool for 3 days. First time since remodel in May. I’ve had zero algae since then thanks to TFP. I’m planning on a max FC loss per day of 2 ppm, so if I add enough bleach to bring the FC up to 10 ppm, then I can be assured that it will not drop below 4 at the end of the...

Yeah, that’s what I suspected. Thanks.

Pool math gives the increase in FC for a given amount of trichlor by weight. But this seems to assume that all the trichlor is dissolved at once. But as the trichlor slowly dissolves, the portion in solution is being used up, so how can we know what the actual FC is at any point in the...

Is there any problem with using pool water on the lawn, given the usual amount of FC in the pool?

I thought maybe it had to do with slowing the rate of decreasing TA.

What is the reason for waiting until pH reaches 8 before adding acid?

Thanks. I’ll just keep an eye on the CH and maintain -0.3< CSI <0

That’s about three times the cost of replacing all my water.

I noticed Pure Water Industries that provides on site filtration is in my area. Do they charge by the gallon?

So what happens if it goes much above that level, or is it just an issue of being harder to manage CSI?

How high should it be allowed to go before thinking about replacing some water?

So I took a reading with my new Speedstir. Using the 10ml sample, it turned light blue after 14 drops (350 ppm) but I was able to push it to a medium blue with the Speedstir at that point. Adding the 15th drop turned it a darker blue. So does that mean it’s really 375 ppm?