Recent content by Mavrk

If your SWG is running 12 hours at 70%, and you only have 2FC, then it sounds like something needs to be cleaned out. What are you using to lower pH. If it is the normal muriatic acid 20* baum, I would not add that much acid to lower pH all at once. Throw in 1-2 cups and check it after a while...

Quite the process you have been going through. My only question after reading all this is... What is your overnight free chlorine level? That is to say, does your chlorine drop overnight while the sun is down. If it is dropping, then it is still fighting something. If it is not dropping, then I...

Okay, so I can't speak to the longevity of the robot since I only had it a couple days. But I do have some initial observations (and a "hack") that some might be interested in (skip to the tl;dr section at the bottom if you don't want to read the whole thing): First of all, there are two types...

Besides marking the pipes, I recommend making sure you understand how to backwash and fill a DE filter.

Washing soda raises pH, baking soda raises TA. Unless you are below 7.2, I would just let it rise naturally.

Temperature and salinity are the only things missing from you numbers. But: Plaster with SWG FC 3-5 pH 7.2-7.8 TA 60-80 CH 350-450 CYA 70-80 and CYA (Stabilizer) at 80 Minimum FC is 4 Target FC is 6 Shock FC is 31 So... you can dial back your percentage on the SWG (or run the pump shorter)...

High chlorine can give you false readings on pH. They will read high. Don't trust your pH readings until the FC goes down. Just let it go down naturally. No problem having it high for a little bit.

The one thing to note would be the adjusted numbers and having to keep salt in the water. Otherwise it is the same kind of care once you get the % dialed in (it will be different when it is colder, so you might have to adjust occasionally). The one place you will find a bigger difference is with...

So they had you increase the pH (with overpriced washing soda), just to lower it with Muriatic acid? Sorry I am not familiar with the Pristine stuff.

Looked these up for you: 125 - Cell needs to be cleaned or replaced. 194 -Cell Current is 85% lower than desired and cell voltage above 19V (generates 125 code - Cell dirty or needs replacement). Probably just needs a cleaning since it went away. Forgot to ask... how long is your filter...

Based on where you live, I don't think you have really hard water. It might not be soft, but one level above that. Certainly test your fill water, but personally I would bring it up to minimum levels at least (250). Remember that hardness is not just calcium, so if you test hardness, you can...

I would add some CYA and Salt. Your calcium is well within range, and until you know how hard your water is I wouldn't adjust it at all. The codes from the cell could have been as simple as "inspect cell" (happens after a certain number of hours and isn't a warning) or "low flow" or "low salt"...

Things are looking good. Might need a cup of muriatic acid thrown in there. Test the CYA in a week. Meanwhile, bring your Calcium Hardness up. It is probably going to take one of the 25 lb cartons to get it where you need it. I would add in it in stages though. Pool looks good, now you just need...

The inhibit can be used for winerizing your pool, the scale inhibitor is probably not needed (but I don't know the stuff). pH plus is not going to be needed with a SWG (no way you will need to raise the pH instead of lower it). It is just washing soda anyway.

Holy cow that is pricey! My pool store charges $4.50 to refill 2.5 gallons of 10.5% chlorine. That is $1.80 per gallon, plus it is higher concentration, so it ends up cheaper than bleach. FWIW, I have not noticed a significant loss of strength when storing my bleach.