Recent content by Marvin

understood re:direct connect vs shim. thanks again. running 24hr on low now

make that 2 million. Melting of the body of timer relay at the line #2 allowed the relay leaf to lose just enough contact to open the circuit. Temp fix is a piece of 12awg wedged into the gap. Of course we are hosting a big group for literally the first time in years today for a crawfish boil...

perfect. will do. based on assumption that short may be in the leads from box to pump that needs to be ruled out. for sure not getting juice to the load side on the timer assembly. a million thanks

well that may be good news, since I seem to have 240 when testing the line in (1 & 3) but not at 2 & 4, at least in the timer box. I'm guessin there might be a way to "hot wire" and bypass the timer relay to check.

sorry, did not see your quick responses. pump cover backs up a little tight to house so had not tested at pump yet. so test leads go to L1 and L2 to check for 240v?

talking to myself here, but read that a false reading is possible by checking L1 and L2 separately. I had not pulled the cover to the motor to check there for a full 240 v, although I would think that a 2 speed pump getting at least 120 would work on the low setting if it was getting at least...

impeller seems to turn pretty freely when I reach in through basket, so it appears to be the motor. Would have bought a no-name brand if I knew I would only get 5 years out of this one. The previous Hayward already had a few years on it when we got the house and made it an additonal 8, so at...

yes, sorry, 240v from the breaker and in the intermatic timer box. That is what I meant by 2 lines @ 120v

for reference, this unit is a 2018 Superflo, 2 speed

got home tonight to a silent pump. Breaker had tripped; noticed a burnt wire at the timer box. not good, obviously. Been very hot today and the superflo had been running on high. Checked connections, reset breaker, and had 120v across 2 lines to motor, same result even after checking a new start...

the dying/dead motor ran at 3450 rpm. It seemed adequate but never really seemed to keep the polaris cleaner moving that well, as there was no booster pump, so I gave up on it years ago (the cleaner that is).

probably going with the pentair superflo 2 speed 1hp (also posted to see if newly edited signature will show).

well I think replumbing a whole new pump would not be much longer if at all compared to piecing back together the old one with new guts. The question remains whether the price of a new pump with possibly higher efficiency would be worth it over just a new motor and extend the life of current...

another question: what is the advantage of dedicated pool pump union coupling over simple glue-in types at the hardware store? (serious question; again, is there somewhere in pool school this is discussed. thanks again) (mine was installed with standard pvc type)

filter has always been regularly cleaned and I've been following TFT guidelines for a couple of years now. Kind of weird how the pump failed without warning--no bearing squealing and the shaft actually turns pretty freely just by hand. It has not lived in the cleanest of environments though...