Recent content by joelans

  1. J

    Increasing CYA

    Also - what is the pool water temp? CYA is one of the tests that's way off if the water is too cold.
  2. J

    Weird "Freeze Protect" function on Jandy system

    First - Merry Christmas to all! This is a hard one to explain. We have a 24,000 gal. in-ground plaster pool, with SWG, heat pump/chiller and gas heater. All equipment is Jandy. To this end, we have 3 variable speed Jandy pumps (each are the Jandy ePump VSP 2.7 hp) - (1) the main filter pump...
  3. J

    iAquaLink and AquaCal Heat Pump heat setting

    Hi, I have an iAquaLink 3.0 control system that is controlling an AquaCal heat pump. This setup lets me set the pool temp, and the iAquaLink will turn the heat pump on until the desired pool temp is reached. However, I don't want the heat pump running when the air temp is below 40 degrees...
  4. J

    CSI v. pH - which is more important

    With the pool water down to 60 right now, my CSI less than -0.30 (plaster pool), but pH is 7.8. To get the CSI above -0.3, I would need to increase the pH to about 8.1, which is outside of the recommended range. So, what's more important - keeping pH below 8.0, or getting the CSI to above...
  5. J

    CYA for SWG v. Liquid Chlorine

    Dumb question - why is recommended CYA higher for SWG than for liquid Cl2? Isn't it all the same Cl2, regardless of source? All SWG does is create the Cl2, compared to just pouring it in the pool. Just wondering.
  6. J

    Right Chemistry and Still Algae

    You're TA at 75ppm is on the high side, which is why you are getting a lot of pH increase. You can get that down to the 60-65 ppm range, and your pH will be lower and more stable. As mentioned, you need to SLAM your pool to get rid of the algae. Once you get rid of the algae issue, keep your...
  7. J

    Taking over pool responsibilities and overwhelmed!

    Get yourself a good test kit, like a good Taylor kit. Don't use strips - those are Crud. You can never see the differences in color. Also, you can either get it with a Taylor kit or separately, but definitely get the FAS-DPD chlorine test - so much easier to test Free CL2. When adding drops...
  8. J

    Problem with Jandy Aqualink Lights on Auto

    The regular schedule only has the pool filter pump scheduled, and that works fine. I will try it with just activating the spa light, and see if the pool lights turn on as well.
  9. J

    Problem with Jandy Aqualink Lights on Auto

    Attached are the screenshots - my pool and spa lights are separate (each can be turned on/off separately). With the Dusk Schedule, both the pool and spa lights turn on at exactly the same time. Then at 10:00 pm (per the Dusk schedule) the pool lights turn off, but the spa lights remain on...
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  12. J

    Problem with Jandy Aqualink Lights on Auto

    I have a new pool with Jandy Aqualink PDA (can control the pool features with the phone). Putting aside that the Web interface for Jandy is from 1970, I'm having a problem with the "Dusk Set Up" feature. In sum, I have the pool lights turn on at Dusk. But, what happens is that the separate...
  13. J

    Water Level Sensor

    Does anyone know of a wi-fi enabled water level sensor? Not an automatic leveler - just a sensor. I have a water fill line attached and run via a Rachio WiFi hose timer, so I can turn the water fill on/off remotely. What is like is some type of water level sensor to notify me when the...
  14. J

    What's more important - pH or CSI

    I have a plaster pool with a SWG. Based on Pool Math, it recommends an ideal pH of between 7.6-7.8, and recommended range of 7.2-8.0. Right now, I have a pH of 7.8 and CSI of -0.13, both of which are good (I know for a SWG, want to keep the CSI between -0.3 and 0.0). To get that CSI of -0.13...
  15. J

    Problem keeping pH in check

    Well, that fixed it. TA is down to about 65, and it is much easier keeping the pH in check. Thanks to all for your help!