Recent content by DeanP66

I'm glad it worked out for you. However, I can't take credit for the design. I copied someone else's idea right here on TFP. Can't remember who, but they get all the credit. ;)

Oly, you are definitely a candidate for adding borates. Your pH is drifting high very quickly and in the cell the pH is even higher. I added borates this season to my pool and my friend's as well. She was having all kinds of scaling issues last year, but most of that was due to her high CH...

Update: So, I went to my friend's house to change the temp jumper setting, but when I got there, I noticed the unit working.:scratch: As I cycled through the menu, the temp reading was practically right on this time. As I got to the salinity reading, it was in the low 3200's. I did notice...

Divin' Dave, Were you able to resolve your issues? One other thing you didn't mention is your water temp on the unit. A couple of people have commented that if the temp reading is off, it can affect the salinity reading. If that is the case, you can change a jumper on the mainboard that...

Thanks MacGyver, that helps a lot. I definitely remember how heavy that thing is when I did the original installation.

More than a couple of times from the looks of his pic above.:mrgreen:

Thanks will give it a try on Monday. Is it easy to remove the cover to get to the mainboard? For now, I loaded her up with 6ppm of liquid chlorine for the weekend. Her FC was still only at 5. That's a definite thumbs up to running the FC a little 'hot' daily.

I do have a flow switch. From ajw22's link above, it looks like the flow switch with the thinner wire is connected to a square headed thread. My flow switch has the hexagonal threaded head like the 2nd one in the pic. However, looking at the wire, it doesn't appear very thick. I can't...

In March of 2020, I bought two RJ45+ SWGs for my pool and a friend of mine. I installed them both and have been taking care of both pools. Mine has been a dream. I haven't had even a single issue. Went all season in '20 without having to clean the unit even once. On the other hand, my...

I say go for the 10% liquid chlorine that you can get at Walmart, Home Depot, or Lowes. Just make sure the date on the box isn't over 4 months old. It's coded as 21XXX where XXX is the day of the year (1-365) produced in 2021. Bleach is ok, but they seem to be following Clorox's lead by...

I agree with Maddie above. The best thing you did was order the TF-100 before getting too far in the hole. If you follow the TFPC protocols, you'll find that you won't be buying anything other than liquid chlorine and muriatic acid. No "No More Problems" or "Pool Perfect" potions that cost a...

The sad part is if the OP's water isn't even cloudy and looks good, the SLAM could take very little time to complete. Now he's stuck with almost 4k worth of SWGs and he can't even confirm if they are in fact in good working order. I suspect they are fine when you consider how much FC he lost...

The salt from a water softener is only used to clean the resin beads in the softener unit. It does not end up in the softened water. It just helps the resin beads stay clean by flushing all the calcium and magnesium ions off of them and to a drain. Then the tank is rinsed to a drain so it's...

Yes, you need a SLAM. A SLAM is different that just shocking the pool. Shocking may clear your pool, but it may not kill everything. SLAM is a process where you bring you FC up to shock level (20ppm for you) and keep it there until you pass the 3 criteria to end the SLAM. If your pool is...

Check your CYA level with your TF-100 test kit. It should be in the 30-50ppm range. If it's there, stick to liquid chlorine exclusively. Tablets raise the CYA every time you use them and it stays in the water and builds and builds. They are not a great way to chlorinate over the long haul...