Recent content by CountryBumkin

once it is cleared up, you may want to get some of the two-part underwater-curing epoxy and stuff or smear a little over that spot. I think there is small hole or gap a that location where the water is getting to the rebar and it needs to be plugged.

You need to use Glass Block mortar for sure. Post on this site and you should get some good advise and product recommendations from the tile pros pretty quickly. Tile Forum/Advice Board - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Probably not. IMO. Those booster pumps are designed for high pressure and low flow. What you want is the opposite (low pressure, high volume).

I've used a penetrant sealer on my paver deck, and it soaked into the pavers and left nothing on top. It sounds like yours went on too thick and left a layer on top. So you should be able to strip off the excess. There are several products available such as this Paver and Concrete Sealer...

You could just use the built in dropper from the food dye bottle (if your bottle has that style tip). Then reach in the water and squeeze a drop out near the area your testing. The key is to be able to watch the drop and see how it moves.

I used to have the IntelliFlo pump and it was controlled through the IntelliTouch (relay). It was capable of running itself with its built in timer, but the IntelliTouch can also provide the control (which I believe was the preferred setup when you have the IntelliTouch and IntelliFlo since the...

If the pump is not connected to a relay in the IntelliTouch, how do you turn it off an on? EDIT: I came back to this to update it. I forgot how this pump worked when I had it (I just looked a the manual). It does connect to "always hot" 240V and then receives its RUN/OFF commands from its low...

It is not permitted to cut/splice the feed wire to the light. If you need to replace the light, you would pull the old light out with its cord (attach a pull sting the the old cord), and pull in the new light/cord at that time.

The dye test usually involves putting a drop or two within inches of the suspected leak then watching the dye to see if it moves towards (into) the leak. If the leak is small and there is no other water movement, eventually the dye will go into the leak. It won't work if you create a cloud of...

See if the calibration instructions in this post can be of help. Salt Just be sure that you know the correct values before making any changes.

I was making a not-so-funny joke - thinking of how a garden rake is used in dirt. Sounded funny in my head. Sorry.

You should be pulling the rake, not pushing it. :D

The 601101 is the 120V model, correct? Check the supply voltage to see if it is dropping under load. Put your voltmeter leads on the load side of the GFI breaker feeding the light. Turn on the light and record the voltage, then watch the voltage as the light dims (does the voltage drop?. If yes...

That's similar to the problem I had with my SWG. When the pump was on "Low speed" there was not enough water flow to let the SWG run. So in order to get chlorine in pool the pump had to run faster. I think you will find the same thing on your heater. You will need to increase the pump's...

If those wires are 12V then the risk drops considerably. I think I will cut the wires and then measure the voltage, if 12V I'm going to proceed with my splicing plan, if 120V I will scrap the light.