Recent content by Corysm

Never mind. Remembered I had an extra capacitor I bought a few years back and swapped in the new and, presto, it is now working. Thanks for your help though. Fingers crossed there isn’t something more going on and another one goes.

I have little knowledge of electrical work and not much of a do it yourself mechanic. Pulled back plastic cover off. Is the back cover you are suggesting I remove. I see motor shaft and wiring. Looks very dry in that portion. A lot of dust and cobwebs. I can turn the motor shaft from the rear...

My pump is tripping breaker immediately on attempt to start the pump. Pentair equipment. Did get 1-1.5 inches of rain today. Also have had problems with salt cell acting strange over last month. Flow light often red but does turn green eventually (sometimes hour or more) and then will go back...

I did order a new kit from them. Not here until tomorrow night though.

Did one more OCLT. Lost 1.0 -1.5 (tested water twice) from 10:45PM - 5:50AM. I tested CYA a couple more times using the approach suggested and it’s 35 both times. Any concerns with old test chemicals? I think mine are about 2 years old. Store in dark back room in basement (probably 65-70...

My gut says I’m good water very clear. Just concerned about need for so much chlorine yesterday, even in afternoon. I actually retested CYA two times over last two days and I think it’s more like 40ish. Never too confident in my comfort with CYA test. Depending on lighting, it could be...

Ok, so 2 nights of testing. Water very clear as of yesterday morning. Mon 9:15 PM FC. 20 CC. .5 Tues 5:40 AM FC 18 CC 0 Tues 10:15 PM FC 21.5 CC. 0 Wed 5:40 AM FC 20.5 CC. 0 to 0.5 yesterday I added about 5 gal of liquid chlorine. Keep going?

Intellichlor 60, 2 years old. I’ve had it off last 2 days though as I’ve been trying to assess how much chlorine I was losing and I’ve been having some cell light and flow light issues so wanted to eliminate that confusion from chlorine issue. Attack that after I figure out chlorine issue...

that’s the plan tonight. Thanks.

Need some help. Losing chlorine too fast I assume. 11-16 ppm during daytime. Water slightly cloudy, not bad. TF-100 kit Swg - been adding 10% chlorine to keep up TC - 6.0 CC - 0 CYA - 50 TA - 150 CH - 250

Thank you all. It does seem to be the stack temp reading. Display switches from pool to spa right after firing up and temp goes to about 275 and stays steady. Can’t remember to get it back to pool with display but Heater working fine otherwise. Not going to replace, as all seems to be working...

Can I ask why you say that? Have you seen this before? Also, do you think there is any risk of running the heater before it’s fixed? Bi can track water temp on my pool panel. Just concerned the heater is going to overheat. Thanks.

It does not shut off itself.

The temp is on the digital display. It starts at like 90+ and rises rapidly to 200+. I have not done any testing myself.

Need some help. I have a Pentair master temp 250. It’s about 8 years old. Use it about 15-20 times per year. Started it up this year and it fires up fine. Exhaust Fan kicks on but temps quickly go up to 200+ degrees. I shut it off out of concern. Any thoughts? No messages on heater. For some...